Plugged fuel filter?

[RadioHowie]

Man, I think folks are waaay overthinking this. It's something simple - like a temporary non-venting tank or the fact that Howie is a moron.
I betcha he won't be able to get it to happen again.

Guess again, Corky.

Okay, it' update time....

Even left work early so I could "hop" right on the diagnostics.

Step 1 - unplug the 'tard' sensor. Gawd is THAT a bitch to get to. But now out of the ignition/fuel chain so can't blame it.

Step 2 - look for stowaways in the airbox. Nothing there, clean as a whistle. SkooterG, you know how to whistle, don't ya? Pucker up and blow!

(addendum: WTF is it with all those damn panel clips you have to remove to pull the effing side cover. Ain't Yamaha heard of REAL screws?)

Step 3 - Button everything back up and take 'er out for a spin.

I can report the problem is still there...but it's moved -- up to around 5000 rpm. Cruising along just fine, hammer the loud handle and Feej takes off like a rocket until it hits 5k, and it's like you hit the kill switch. Just shuts down. Roll back on the throttle and once the revs drop to around 3500-4000, picks right back up.

It's like someone's installed a governor on the motor.

Gonna call SkyPower tomorrow and get a TPS Recall appointment.

I just don't have the time, tools or inclination to pursue this any further right now, until I replace what has been a known problematical part. Weather's turned spring-like (again) and the ZRex is beckoning.

Stay tuned.

 

[radman]

You've got an electrical disconnect somewhere. If it's moving around the rpm spectrum, it could happen anywhere. Tomorrow redline, day after 3671 rpm. Possible ignition/ECM/fuelpump wire grounding from a rub through, even water in your kill switch rolling back and forth. These are the fun ones, as a tech has to get it to act up if nothing jumps out at him, and an inspection reveals nothing amiss. Even the sidestand switch could do exactly this, for starters I'd be examining various safety juice paths as the on-off behavior kinda points that way. Oooooh, fun........ :glare:

 

[RadioHowie]

You've got an electrical disconnect somewhere. If it's moving around the rpm spectrum, it could happen anywhere. Tomorrow redline, day after 3671 rpm. Possible ignition/ECM/fuelpump wire grounding from a rub through, even water in your kill switch rolling back and forth. These are the fun ones, as a tech has to get it to act up if nothing jumps out at him, and an inspection reveals nothing amiss. Even the sidestand switch could do exactly this, for starters I'd be examining various safety juice paths as the on-off behavior kinda points that way. Oooooh, fun........ :glare:

Much as I hate to accept your diagnosis, because electrical gremlins are SO hard to find and kill, you're probably right.

But I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hoping I'm experiencing "Pre TPS Failure" syndrome.

Gawd, I hope so.

Carbs are SO much easier to diagnose.

 

[Constant Mesh]

There is a fuel filter located near the top of the pump. There is also a fuel inlet strainer at the bottom where the fuel enters the pump. The strainer keeps any large debris from entering the pump which might damage it.

The small rectangular filter component shown in the photos in the thread below is the fuel inlet strainer.

https://fjr1300ownersassociation.yuku.com/topic/2198

The fuel filter is not clearly shown in the photos. In some of the earlier versions of the Service Manual the fuel pump assembly is described in some detail. Both filters are identified on the pump sketch/drawing.

 

[ionbeam]

What is the part number for the fuel filter?

 

[Constant Mesh]

Doesn't appear that the filter is replaceable. Maybe it can be removed and cleaned but I don't know since I haven't disassembled mine to find out.

The Service Manual offers no info on pump and filter maintenance.

 

[petey]

What is the part number for the fuel filter?

The part # for the fuel filter is.....2D1-13907-01-00, kind of pricey. :lol:

 

[RadioHowie]

Possible new angle on my issue....

Drove the Feej to work today to take it to the local Yammie dealer for the TPS recall.

Ran fine, no issues, for about 15-18 miles before it started acting up again. Was able to baby the bike to the office by short-shifting at 2500 rpms and keeping in the "slow" lane.

About 1/2 mile from the office, traffic starts clogging up and slowing down, so my slow progress is not such a problem. Ain't NO ONE moving.

But the slow traffic did bring about one thing -- about a block from the office, sitting through two red/green cycles waiting for my turn, the fan comes on. Almost immediately, when the fan kicks in, the bike is almost unrideable. Fortunately, I AM only a block away.

I limp in to my parking lot, shut the bike off, put it up on the centerstand and prepare to cycle through the diagnostics to see if there are any fault codes.

The bike won't start. Click-click-click----urrrrr.urrrr----click-click-click.

Here's my question....could a battery right on the edge of death be a factor in my issue? Cranked at home....wouldn't turn over the motor at the office, after a 30 minute ride. After all, it IS an '04. Five years of faithful service and I'm not complaining about a dying battery, but could that be a source of my problem?

Edit to add: Just went outside for a smoke and quick check on the bike. Checked the diagnostics for battery voltage and after sitting for 45 minutes, the display reading was 11.8 volts. Don't know if 45 minutes was enough "recovery" time, but attempted to start the bike and it did, but after a VERY slow crank cycle.

 

[radman]

Possible new angle on my issue....
Drove the Feej to work today to take it to the local Yammie dealer for the TPS recall.

Ran fine, no issues, for about 15-18 miles before it started acting up again. Was able to baby the bike to the office by short-shifting at 2500 rpms and keeping in the "slow" lane.

About 1/2 mile from the office, traffic starts clogging up and slowing down, so my slow progress is not such a problem. Ain't NO ONE moving.

But the slow traffic did bring about one thing -- about a block from the office, sitting through two red/green cycles waiting for my turn, the fan comes on. Almost immediately, when the fan kicks in, the bike is almost unrideable. Fortunately, I AM only a block away.

I limp in to my parking lot, shut the bike off, put it up on the centerstand and prepare to cycle through the diagnostics to see if there are any fault codes.

The bike won't start. Click-click-click----urrrrr.urrrr----click-click-click.

Here's my question....could a battery right on the edge of death be a factor in my issue? Cranked at home....wouldn't turn over the motor at the office, after a 30 minute ride. After all, it IS an '04. Five years of faithful service and I'm not complaining about a dying battery, but could that be a source of my problem?

Connections, my man, connections.

 

[RadioHowie]

Connections, my man, connections.

I bet you're a barrel'o'monkeys at a funeral.

 

[radman]

Invite me to one and find out. I got a load of great Zombie jokes I'm itchin to try out. But in any case, 1) poor connection will be especially bad when warm, 2) battery will run undercharged if poor connection stops voltage path, 3) hot, high resistance connection will and can act as on/off switch at inopportune times.

 

[RadioHowie]

Invite me to one and find out. I got a load of great Zombie jokes I'm itchin to try out.

:rofl:

Props to ya, rad....you always have a great comeback.

 

[odot]

Five years and no new battery? Wow, I got fun stuff to look into this year when me skoot starts acting up on me. Didn't even change mine after the accident. I can tell she's getting tired...just trying to spread her life out a bit more. Now I'm thinking I'll just get another battery and not deal with the probs that the moron on this forum is going through.

 

[Bounce]

What is the part number for the fuel filter?

The part # for the fuel filter is.....2D1-13907-01-00, kind of pricey. :lol:

funny thing is a google search came up with the first hit as a part for a boat. no wonder they want MSRP $465.46 for it.

 

[Bounce]

Five years and no new battery? Wow, I got fun stuff to look into this year when me skoot starts acting up on me. Didn't even change mine after the accident. I can tell she's getting tired...just trying to spread her life out a bit more. Now I'm thinking I'll just get another battery and not deal with the probs that the moron on this forum is going through.

geeze. i just saw this too. most bike's i've had (other than the Bridgestone 125) had to have their batteries replaced in the 2 to 3 year mark to avoid getting stranded. there is a minimum voltage requirement for the bike to fire up. that's under load, not static like your test. the loaded reading will be even lower.

do you EVER put it on a battery tender or other trickle charger?

do you remember reading ALL the battery threads that discussed longevity (4 years seems the outer risk limit on the FJR) and that it take AT LEAST 30 minutes at interstate speeds for the bike's charging system to recover from simply starting it (without heated gear or other things running)? local road commutes don't bring up the RPM enough for the bike to reach peak charging capacity. battery issues have been cussed and discussed on all the forums since you first joined. you've been sleeping in class again. haven't you?

but at least you found your epic fail.

scooter was right. it WAS the retard detector!

 

[odot]

Yer a quick one......mister grinch.....

 

[ionbeam]

It still doesn't sound like a bad TPS, the TPS will develop wear spots where you normally have the throttle held. This causes the failure to show up repeatably withing a couple of hundred RPM of the same spot. Because it is a physically worn location on the sensor it can't move in RPM range from one trip to another.

Low voltage to the coils would definitely cause the kind of symptoms you are seeing. The voltage drop-out point is ~9.5-10.0 volts where there is no longer enough voltage for the coils to fire properly. When I fried my ElectroSport stator last fall I rode home with 10.4 volts showing on my volt meter and my bike still ran fine. (But I was stressed!) I was praying my cooling fan wouldn't turn on and leave me stranded. A battery voltage of 11.x is too low for a normal electrical system. Perhaps your battery is dunfer, your charging systems isn't, or you have a loose cable someplace.

The way I noticed my ElectorSport went tits-up was by observing that my headlights reflected in a store window were a deep yellow instead of white. A quick glance at my volt meter confirmed my worst fears. It's an easy check to take a quick peek at the headlights when the engine is running.

You need to sort out your low voltage situation before moving on to other tests.

 

[odot]

Okay.....sounds like you pups need another farkle to add to yer moronic skoots ya own. One voltmeter tied directly to the battery showing what the battery is at.....and one on the airframe showing what the frame is getting voltage-wise to run the skoot. Geez, you pups are pathetic with yer farkles.

 

[Geezer]

Okay.....sounds like you pups need another farkle to add to yer moronic skoots ya own. One voltmeter tied directly to the battery showing what the battery is at.....and one on the airframe showing what the frame is getting voltage-wise to run the skoot. Geez, you pups are pathetic with yer farkles.

Airframe? um, Airframe???? This is a street cycle...

 

[radman]

Okay.....sounds like you pups need another farkle to add to yer moronic skoots ya own. One voltmeter tied directly to the battery showing what the battery is at.....and one on the airframe showing what the frame is getting voltage-wise to run the skoot. Geez, you pups are pathetic with yer farkles.

Airframe? um, Airframe???? This is a street cycle...

Nanook hasn't touched ground since 1971.........