Power Distribution Questions

[qmotion]

I ordered the Blueseas distribution block as well. It makes sense to me to group the low amprege equiptment together. The radar detector is powered from the J&M harness anyway. When I get the FJR-AE we can definately rendezvous. I'd like to see how your wiring came out.

 

[qmotion]

After a couple hours of reading all 5 pages of this post over and over, I realized I'm going to need help with my 2006 FJR's electrical system. I just ordered the Power Plate from www.electricalconnection.com then I started doing all the reading. Looks like I should have ordered the Blueseas distrubtion block instead. Is it possible to use both?

Let me start with what all is going to be installed on my FJR: J&M cb/intercom/audio controller, Garmin 2820 navigation, Escort 8500 radar detector, Binder radar laser jammer, PHID lights, Mottolights, Steibel magnum horns, Corbin heated seats and a Scorpio alarm.

The Blueseas unit has connections for 6 fuses. They have another one that has connections for 12 fuses but it's longer. The Power Plate has 6 terminals and I believe it includes a relay.

Looks like I'm going to have to visit Randy and Mitch to try and figure this out. Would it be best that I order the 12 fuse distribution block or would that not fit under my rear seat?

Randy and Mitch, keep in mind I do live in PA, Philadelphia to be exact. I haven't gotten the FJR-AE yet but I'm trying to do all the ground work for setting up my farkles.

Don't know if I'll get lynched by the electronic whizzes 'round here, but, with the 2 very low draw items (Garmin, Escort), you might be able to put them on 1 circuit??? Here's my thinking. 1 6-spot pdb in the front (Garmin/Escort, Binder, PHID, Motolights, horns) and 1 6-spot pdb in the back (Corbin, Scorpio, future farkles). For the front one - yes, I know only listed 5 items. Although there are 6 slots on the Blue Seas box, you take up an extra '-' terminal when you run a switched pdb similar to the diagram at the bottom of my very first post in this thread. Perhaps you could double up the '-' with one of the other items giving you the full 6 slots?

Anywho...I can swing by your place. I go to Wilmington pretty often and could stop by to show you what I did.

OK, can anyone draw up a new diagram to illustrate how I would combine the Powerport and the Blueseas distribution blocks so that I would have at least 2 terminals continuous hot? The Blueseas will go under the rear seat and the PowerPort will go up front.

 

[Randy]

After a couple hours of reading all 5 pages of this post over and over, I realized I'm going to need help with my 2006 FJR's electrical system. I just ordered the Power Plate from www.electricalconnection.com then I started doing all the reading. Looks like I should have ordered the Blueseas distrubtion block instead. Is it possible to use both?

Let me start with what all is going to be installed on my FJR: J&M cb/intercom/audio controller, Garmin 2820 navigation, Escort 8500 radar detector, Binder radar laser jammer, PHID lights, Mottolights, Steibel magnum horns, Corbin heated seats and a Scorpio alarm.

The Blueseas unit has connections for 6 fuses. They have another one that has connections for 12 fuses but it's longer. The Power Plate has 6 terminals and I believe it includes a relay.

Looks like I'm going to have to visit Randy and Mitch to try and figure this out. Would it be best that I order the 12 fuse distribution block or would that not fit under my rear seat?

Randy and Mitch, keep in mind I do live in PA, Philadelphia to be exact. I haven't gotten the FJR-AE yet but I'm trying to do all the ground work for setting up my farkles.

Don't know if I'll get lynched by the electronic whizzes 'round here, but, with the 2 very low draw items (Garmin, Escort), you might be able to put them on 1 circuit??? Here's my thinking. 1 6-spot pdb in the front (Garmin/Escort, Binder, PHID, Motolights, horns) and 1 6-spot pdb in the back (Corbin, Scorpio, future farkles). For the front one - yes, I know only listed 5 items. Although there are 6 slots on the Blue Seas box, you take up an extra '-' terminal when you run a switched pdb similar to the diagram at the bottom of my very first post in this thread. Perhaps you could double up the '-' with one of the other items giving you the full 6 slots?

Anywho...I can swing by your place. I go to Wilmington pretty often and could stop by to show you what I did.

OK, can anyone draw up a new diagram to illustrate how I would combine the Powerport and the Blueseas distribution blocks so that I would have at least 2 terminals continuous hot? The Blueseas will go under the rear seat and the PowerPort will go up front.

If you want 2 terminals continuous hot (not sure why, but, I'm not here to judge), I don't know of any way to do it other than wiring a pdb directly to the battery and no relay. Very simple - '+' from battery to '+' to pdb and '-' to '-' on pdb. You could (and maybe should) still use an inline 30a fuse on the '+' wire.

 

[qmotion]

Well, 2 of my farkles need continuous power. I have a set of hyper lites that are remotely operated and the Scorpio alarm need constant juice. I also want to hook up a battery tender lead to it somewhere.

 

[Randy]

All makes sense now. I did a constant hot Powerlet off the battery and I use it for my battery tender with the adapter cable. For the Powerlet stuff, contact Jeff at https://www.sportbikeeffects.com - support a member who takes care of his FJR bretheren.

 

[James Burleigh]

For Christmas I got myself a radar detector, which when added to my Widder vest and Blaster horns, I figured it was time to get a power plate. So today I picked up this exact power plate shown in the photo by GunMD.

I have reviewed all the links on this thread and others, and seen the famous WarChild site with all the Rat Shack parts. And I have reviewed the instructions that came with my Electrical Connection Power Plate, and created a wiring diagram using colored markers showing where everything hooks up.

But even after all that I have a couple of loose ends, literally, in my diagram. So before I start removing farings and getting out the blow torch and machete, I thought I'd try to get these loose ends tied up. Here goes:

1. "Connect the black wire from the relay to a suitable ground." What is suitable? Back to the negative terminal on the battery? Somewhere on the frame? I thought I saw a posting that said not to connect the ground to the frame.

2. "The remaining blue wire is the turn-on for the Plate." I take it this is the one I can connect to the left horn wire now orphaned by the Randy Blaster Harness?

3. "The red wire with blue butt connector is designed for connection to a battery charger positive wire. Turning on the key disconnects the charger from the bike preventing possible damage to the bike's electrical system." Huh? WTF? What does this connect to? Can I leave it dangling?

4. "Connect accessories to the block and install proper size fuses."

>How do I know the proper size fuses?
>What about the fuses that are already part of the original wiring, like with the Widder vest? What becomes of those puppies?
>What do I do with the ground side of these accessories? I understand from the threads I can get a negative strip, which I take it would connect to the neg battery terminal, and all my negatives from the accessories connect to that. But if I don't do that, what do I do with 'em in the mean time? Can I twist them all together and give them a common grounding?
Finally, speaking of the Blaster horn harness, that's got some serious fandangled parts (not technical talk, I realize). Do I leave that separately connected to the battery, or connect that sweetheart to my new power plate also? [i think leave alone is the answer.]

Looking forward to help from all you Sparkies out there. Thanks in advance!

Jb

 

[FJRocket]

1. "Connect the black wire from the relay to a suitable ground." What is suitable? Back to the negative terminal on the battery? Somewhere on the frame? I thought I saw a posting that said not to connect the ground to the frame.

Use the neg term of the battery (or a grounding strip connected to it) whenever possible, you'll get better results.

2. "The remaining blue wire is the turn-on for the Plate." I take it this is the one I can connect to the left horn wire now orphaned by the Randy Blaster Harness?

If that is where you are supposed to run 12 volt switched power to the harness, then yes, use the spare horn connector for switched power. Or tap into the parking light or windhield retract.

3. "The red wire with blue butt connector is designed for connection to a battery charger positive wire. Turning on the key disconnects the charger from the bike preventing possible damage to the bike's electrical system." Huh? WTF? What does this connect to? Can I leave it dangling?



You can use that wire for charging the bike using a battery tender or similar. I think (and I'm not sure) that the red wire/blue connector should be left free and used to hook up to a charger. Sounds like the key switches on the relay which in turn shuts that wire off as the main power goes on. Nice.

4. "Connect accessories to the block and install proper size fuses."

>How do I know the proper size fuses?
 

Manufacturer ratings.

>What about the fuses that are already part of the original wiring, like with the Widder vest? What becomes of those puppies?
 

Leave them alone if you are using all the original wiring. If you can cut out the fuse and connect to your power plate, then use the same value fuse in your fuse block. Depends on whether or not you want to fart around with redundant fuses all over the place and cutting up your Wdder wires.

>What do I do with the ground side of these accessories? I understand from the threads I can get a negative strip, which I take it would connect to the neg battery terminal, and all my negatives from the accessories connect to that. But if I don't do that, what do I do with 'em in the mean time? Can I twist them all together and give them a common grounding?
 

Yes, get a negative strip and put it near your fuse block. Or just replace your power plate and get a Blue Sea 6 gang fuse block (or similar) with the negative connections on the same block. KISS.

Finally, speaking of the Blaster horn harness, that's got some serious fandangled parts (not technical talk, I realize). Do I leave that separately connected to the battery, or connect that sweetheart to my new power plate also? [i think leave alone is the answer.]

If there is already a fuse built into the harness, then you can go direct to the battery. If there isn't a fuse in the harness then connect that sweetheart to your new power plate. Again, sometimes it just depends on whether you want all the fuses and connections in one place or have them spread all over the bike. My first FJR had several fuses all under the A, B, C and D panels. This time around, all of mine are under the seat.

You may get some difference of opinion. Hang in there, the more you do it the less muddy it becomes.

 

[James Burleigh]

You may get some difference of opinion. Hang in there, the more you do it the less muddy it becomes.[/color]

Bless your heart, Rocket Man, for your detailed reply to all my questions. More validation of what a great resource and community the FJR Forum is. :clapping:

Now I have renewed confidence. Twisting wires together ain't the hard part. Crow-barring the FJR panels off isn't even the hard part. Knowing where the darn wires go so's it don't all go FZZZZssst!--THAT's the hard part.

Thanks again!

Jb

 

[madmike2]

Knowing where the darn wires go so's it don't all go FZZZZssst!--THAT's the hard part.Jb

Watch out for the smoke. Once you let the smoke out, the electrical things "doan werk so really very ghud".

 

[MKO]

After a couple hours of reading all 5 pages of this post over and over, I realized I'm going to need help with my 2006 FJR's electrical system. I just ordered the Power Plate from www.electricalconnection.com then I started doing all the reading. Looks like I should have ordered the Blueseas distrubtion block instead. Is it possible to use both?

Let me start with what all is going to be installed on my FJR: J&M cb/intercom/audio controller, Garmin 2820 navigation, Escort 8500 radar detector, Binder radar laser jammer, PHID lights, Mottolights, Steibel magnum horns, Corbin heated seats and a Scorpio alarm.

The Blueseas unit has connections for 6 fuses. They have another one that has connections for 12 fuses but it's longer. The Power Plate has 6 terminals and I believe it includes a relay.

Looks like I'm going to have to visit Randy and Mitch to try and figure this out. Would it be best that I order the 12 fuse distribution block or would that not fit under my rear seat?

Randy and Mitch, keep in mind I do live in PA, Philadelphia to be exact. I haven't gotten the FJR-AE yet but I'm trying to do all the ground work for setting up my farkles.

Don't know if I'll get lynched by the electronic whizzes 'round here, but, with the 2 very low draw items (Garmin, Escort), you might be able to put them on 1 circuit??? Here's my thinking. 1 6-spot pdb in the front (Garmin/Escort, Binder, PHID, Motolights, horns) and 1 6-spot pdb in the back (Corbin, Scorpio, future farkles). For the front one - yes, I know only listed 5 items. Although there are 6 slots on the Blue Seas box, you take up an extra '-' terminal when you run a switched pdb similar to the diagram at the bottom of my very first post in this thread. Perhaps you could double up the '-' with one of the other items giving you the full 6 slots?

Anywho...I can swing by your place. I go to Wilmington pretty often and could stop by to show you what I did.

OK, can anyone draw up a new diagram to illustrate how I would combine the Powerport and the Blueseas distribution blocks so that I would have at least 2 terminals continuous hot? The Blueseas will go under the rear seat and the PowerPort will go up front.

I think it's a great idea to have a farkle plan. I already plan to install Dual Star heated grips and Audiovox Cruise control. I am considering some of the other farkles you mentioned above. It might make sense to the Blue Seas installation up front. Would that eliminate some rework later?

 

[HOF]

I just wanted to publicly thank Randy for walking me through the ins and outs of installing a Blue Seas power block. He has been awesome. He has patiently answered all of my questions and sent me some of his own pictures. As soon as the weather warms up here in northern Michigan I am going to install it with a ton more confidence than I had before talking to him. Thanks, Randy!

 

[Randy]

I just wanted to publicly thank Randy for walking me through the ins and outs of installing a Blue Seas power block. He has been awesome. He has patiently answered all of my questions and sent me some of his own pictures. As soon as the weather warms up here in northern Michigan I am going to install it with a ton more confidence than I had before talking to him. Thanks, Randy!

Very happy to help. I couldn't have done it without the help of others here and am happy to be able to 'pay it forward'.

 

[temp357]

Anyone know what size fuse is used by the headlight assembly?