Purchasing New front Rotors. Do I buy one or two?

[maddad]

Have to replace the front rotors on my 2005 ABS. Yes I know I need to replace both sides, but stopped at one of the Yamaha shops and he quoted me $200 for the set or assembly. I'm thinking the $200 covers just one of the rotors and I need to buy 2 of the part number and the cost to replace is more like $400.

Little bit of a question of "assembly" versus "set".

Thanks.

 

[kaitsdad]

www.partshark.com

You will need 2 rotors - and PLEASE replace the 6 rotor bolts (12 total.)

$135.67 ea for rotors.

$1.93 ea for the bolts.

 

[ahchiu]

I would install with a new set of bolts, apply heat to the bolts before take the bolts off rotor.

 

[dave k]

you are correct 400.00 for two, try motorsports monster.com or Yamaha parts nation 154.04 ea. 5vs-2581t-00-00 but be patient delivery can be slow.

 

[dave k]

learned some thing new parts shark is way better price !

 

[extrememarine]

Bikebandit shows the disks come as a set of 2 on the parts schematic. Cost is $178 there.

https://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2009-yamaha-fjr1300a-fjr13ayb/o/m144756#sch599702

 

[Wlfman]

Bikebandit shows the disks come as a set of 2 on the parts schematic. Cost is $178 there.
https://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2009-yamaha-fjr1300a-fjr13ayb/o/m144756#sch599702

If you order 1 you will get ONE rotor. All the part fiches show in the drawing the #1 with a line going to both rotors, thats because both rotors are the same part number. On most website (seems Bike Bandit doesn't) they will indicate the total number of the item needed for the bike.

 

[RaYzerman19]

You could try EBC as many have considered those an upgrade... contoured listed here for GenII, so check what EBC part no. fits yours. Non-contoured for a couple of bucks less.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Prolite-XC-Contour-Brake-Rotor-Front-For-Yamaha-FJR1300-/190998886924?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AFJR1300&hash=item2c786bba0c

 

[BigDogRaven]

This is all timely info for me as well.

My question is (too lazy to look myself):

Are the rotor bolts the same part # for the REAR rotor?

I am switching out my rear rotor now.

 

[garyahouse]

Have to replace the front rotors on my 2005 ABS....

Just curious, why do you have to replace them? Warped? Too thin?

What do they measure? Mine are about .005 under the limit on my 05 Gen 1, but they seem to be working just fine. So now ya got me thinkin'...

I would ask this question of the forum: how far "under" have you run YOUR rotors?

Gary

darksider #44

 

[RaYzerman19]

This is all timely info for me as well.My question is (too lazy to look myself):

Are the rotor bolts the same part # for the REAR rotor?

I am switching out my rear rotor now.

Yep. All years.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Have to replace the front rotors on my 2005 ABS....

Just curious, why do you have to replace them? Warped? Too thin?

What do they measure? Mine are about .005 under the limit on my 05 Gen 1, but they seem to be working just fine. So now ya got me thinkin'...

I would ask this question of the forum: how far "under" have you run YOUR rotors?

Gary

darksider #44

Gary, I'm due for a set of rotors also, mine might be a tad worse than yours. If you believe there is a bit of margin built into that safety factor, then you're good for a while longer, but your choice. If your mileage is high, they don't owe you much and if you're keeping the bike..............

 

[Mihalis fjr]

133.54$ X 2 = 267.08$ + Free shipping!Here:

https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2005/FJR1300ABS+-+FJR13AT/FRONT+BRAKE+CALIPER/parts.html

https://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-5VS-2581T-00-00.html

 

[RichDoyle]

Bikebandit shows the disks come as a set of 2 on the parts schematic. Cost is $178 there.
https://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2009-yamaha-fjr1300a-fjr13ayb/o/m144756#sch599702

If you order 1 you will get ONE rotor. All the part fiches show in the drawing the #1 with a line going to both rotors, thats because both rotors are the same part number. On most website (seems Bike Bandit doesn't) they will indicate the total number of the item needed for the bike.

Interesting. BB correctly shows 2 required if I look my '13 up, but has no such column at all for the '09. Something to watch out for.

 

[maddad]

I have to replace mine simply out of wear. 120,000 km on the bike, but tend to ride and brake hard. However I think the biggest issue is the EBC pads on the stock rotors. THe pads eat the crap out of them. Going back to stock pads, stock rotors. Seems to be that Yamaha had most of right in the first place. Gone back to stock seat, stock wind shield, stock oil.

 

[majicmaker]

I have to replace mine simply out of wear. 120,000 km on the bike, but tend to ride and brake hard. However I think the biggest issue is the EBC pads on the stock rotors. THe pads eat the crap out of them. Going back to stock pads, stock rotors. Seems to be that Yamaha had most of right in the first place. Gone back to stock seat, stock wind shield, stock oil.

Good move, maddad. Those EBC pads are absolute Crap! Happy Trails!

 

[garyahouse]

Have to replace the front rotors on my 2005 ABS....

Just curious, why do you have to replace them? Warped? Too thin?

What do they measure? Mine are about .005 under the limit on my 05 Gen 1, but they seem to be working just fine. So now ya got me thinkin'...

I would ask this question of the forum: how far "under" have you run YOUR rotors?

Gary

darksider #44

Gary, I'm due for a set of rotors also, mine might be a tad worse than yours. If you believe there is a bit of margin built into that safety factor, then you're good for a while longer, but your choice. If your mileage is high, they don't owe you much and if you're keeping the bike..............

I'm not nervous about it. I'll keep em. I'm not hard on my brakes. I've seen rotors so far under the minimums that you wouldn't believe it. To me, the name of the game is warpage. Granted, super undersize rotors will get hotter faster, but I don't race my bike. Seems to me that manufacturer recommendations accomplish two things. They provide a margine of safety under the absolute worst possible conditions, and they protect the manufacturer's butt. Granted, things like grooves can eat up new pads, but no grooves in mine. My rotors have a very easy life. They're straight and the brakes work smoothly. Being undersize is a non-issue to me. And until they start warping or lookin' really gnarly, I'm not going to concern myself with them. As far as the safety factor, what are they going to do, explode? They're solid steel for goodness sakes. And having worked in tool and die for 20 years, steel is something I know something about. As long as I don't abuse them, they'll let me know when they've had enough. But until then, I'll enjoy NOT worrying about them.

Just my humble opinion. But then again, I run a car tire on my bike. I do have a screw loose you know.

Gary

darksider #44

 

[Pepperell]

I'd err on the cautious side with brakes since I ride 2-up with a loaded trailer in the mountains.

 

[ionbeam]

Just curious, why do you have to replace them? Warped? Too thin?...

...mine might be a tad worse than yours. If you believe there is a bit of margin built into that safety factor, then you're good for a while longer, but your choice...

...They're solid steel for goodness sakes...

Another consideration with under spec rotors is how far the caliper pistons extend. There may be extra stress on the seals as the pistons extend farther out of the bore.