Not sure how you got the wrench on the header bolts without swinging the radiator all the way forward. I definitely couldn't do that on mine. The second gens must have more room to swing a wrench between the rad and head.
a socket driven allen, then a universal, then a 12" extension, then the ratchet. Push the radiator as far forwad as you can.Not sure how you got the wrench on the header bolts without swinging the radiator all the way forward. I definitely couldn't do that on mine. The second gens must have more room to swing a wrench between the rad and head.
Fred, if you'll notice, I believe ALL those who pulled their headers are Gen II'ers who have that fancy-schmancy curved radiator which must give more room behind the rad to access the header bolts.Hmmm...
To "just remove the exhaust header," requires moving the radiator, which requires removing the front tupperware lowers, and also draining the coolant so that you can remove the radiator hoses (required whether you remove the rad or tilt it forward). And that will add about an hour or more of recreational maintenance fun to the project.
OTOH, cutting a couple of bolts off with a Sawzall or Dremel cutoff wheel would take about 5 minutes max and cost a couple bucks at the hardware store for some grade 8 metric replacements.
Maybe you should think about taking up skiing or snowmobiling or some other winter recreational activity, Colin?
Fixed it for you, Howie.Fred, if you'll notice, I believe ALL those who pulled their headers are SUPERIOR Gen II'ers who have that fancy-schmancy curved radiator which must give more room behind the rad to access the header bolts.
you might take the bearing and seal sizes and contact a place that specializes in them such as McGuire Bearing or whatever is in your local area. They should be able to source it for you.Thanks for all the great info and pics on the relay arm removal, I have been able to remove mine because of it. My question is has anyone found a good source for the bearing and seals replacement kit for the relay arm? There was a post back in January 2013 saying all balls racing had one for around $65.00 but that doesn't seem to be available anymore.
Thanks
Rory
Rory, just wondering why you'd not simply go with OEM for this? My lower shock linkage lasted to around 80k miles, the others I replace at around 160k miles and these, whilst worn still looked good enough to last longer, so what more could you askThanks for all the great info and pics on the relay arm removal, I have been able to remove mine because of it. My question is has anyone found a good source for the bearing and seals replacement kit for the relay arm? There was a post back in January 2013 saying all balls racing had one for around $65.00 but that doesn't seem to be available anymore.
Thanks
Rory
I share the photos fully expecting to be mocked for my obviously lame maintenance....feel free to mock after reading. I've moved from admitting my problem to seeking a higher power...that deals in replacement Yamaha parts.
8< 8< 8< Snipped a bunch of gory details and photos >8 >8 >8
Enter your email address to join: