Rear Wheel removal issue

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I'd get a 14 mm hex bit and rotate the axle back and forth from the right end while someone taps the left end with a hammer.
You can use the 14 mm end of the sheet metal spark plug wrench included in the FJR tool pouch.

A little rotation of the axle should do the trick. This should help get a bit of penetrating oil to flow in around the threaded end of the axle.
Yes. If you can turn the axle from the right side, the side where the pinch bolt is, then it should come out by turning it and applying light pressure or light tapping on the other end. If it does not turn from the right end then it is probably corroded. I would try to free it up by turning it rather than pounding on it. When tapping, I suggest you leave the nut on so it is not quite flush with the end of the axle so you are tapping on the nut rather than the threaded end of the axle. Once loose, remove the nut and slide the axle out.

 
Just give it a few good whacks...what could go wrong?
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Hold my beer and watch this...

 
Anyway back to the OP. Did you get the darn thing out yet? Since it is hollow I wonder if a little bit of heat is in order. Send some propane torch flames down the center of that tube. It might help the penatraint disperse.

Dave

 
OP hails from Atlanta, which I know can be a pretty humid place. So if the axle hasn't had maintenance for 9 years, well.... that's prolly bad.

Nothing to add to this thread others haven't pointed out. If you really can't rotate the axle in place via the ride-side hex-head (with wheel weight off the the axle), that indicates things are pretty grim in there.

At that point... get someone on the ride side of the bike to make sure it doesn't go anywhere, take your 5lb sledge hammer, and a good chunk of soft wood 2x4, remove left-side axle altogether, and wail on the axle end with the soft-wood in place. Take a number of manly swings, but ENSURE you are striking the wood that is directly over the axle. If you find that you simply dig deep holes in the wood... well, that's bad, best to hold up and re-group.

My 2 cents.

 
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The OP mentioned that it moved a small amount. To me, it would suggest that the axle is corroded to the spacers and/or the bearings in the rear wheel. In either case, it is going to put a LOT of lateral pressure on the bearings when brute force is used to bash the thing loose. If penetrating fluid (plus some modest amount of heat) doesn't loosen it up enough to eliminate the need for REALLY hard bashing, I am thinking that the bearings will be pretty much toasted (balls driven into races). I suspect bearings and possibly spacers will need to be replaced. The axle might end out pretty scored as well.

Note: Don't overheat anything in the wheel hub. Not only would you "coke" any grease that might remain but the rubber wedges (dampers) in the "cush" drive will not like it very much!!!

 
Another thought, since applying heat will cause the axle to expand and possibly make it more difficult to break lose, I would get a can of freeze spray and try really chilling that axle to see if it woun't break free from those bearings or spacer that way.

 
Doubt the problem is inside the wheel. The oil seals on each side of the wheel should be fairly effective at keeping moisture out of that area.

I'd guess the problem area is the collar or sleeve which is sandwiched between the drive and the left side of the wheel. The part which can fall out of the drive when the wheel is removed. Don't believe there are any seals in that area which would keep out moisture. The collar is more than an inch long and in close contact with the axle.

Part # 32 in this drawing.

https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/street-mcy?ls=Tour&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/FJR_1300A_-_FJR13AXB_-_2008/DRIVE_SHAFT

I'd lean the bike over to the right and and inject lots of penetrating oil around the axle down into the drive. Hopefully the oil will enter the collar, loosening its grip on the axle.

After a while get the bike vertical and try to rotate the axle from the right side.

 
^^^

You are correct - I meant to say collar rather than spacer!!

In any case, sideways bashing will beat up the bearings pretty badly if the penetrating fluid doesn't release the frozen bits from the axle.

 
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Update.

OP found pinned under bike. OP stated he was attempting to remove the rear axle while holding the bike at 45 degrees thus allowing penetrate to reach the bound up area. OP swung 5 pound sledge hammer, lost footing, resulting in the motorcycle pinning the OP's leg.

OP is ok. FJR now has broken front mirror stay along with previously bound up axle.

The End.

 
Nope. He's still trapped underneath and can't reach the keyboard..
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And like "The Squid", he forgot that when working/riding alone always have the phone on your person and not on the bike, just for a situation like this. Maybe we could all chip in a nickel and get the man an I.C.E. tag for his t-shirt.

 
Nope. He's still trapped underneath and can't reach the keyboard..
whistle.gif
And like "The Squid", he forgot that when working/riding alone always have the phone on your person and not on the bike, just for a situation like this. Maybe we could all chip in a nickel and get the man an I.C.E. tag for his t-shirt.
lol, i always have my phone on me incase me and the bike decide to head in different directions.
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guessing thats not the norm though.

 
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