Relay arm bearing time.

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So now I have really messed up. I went to jack up my FJR using my black iron pipe stand, and ran the ratcheting straps under the seat bracket on top of the rear sub-frame, like Bryan did in the TWO video. After about 5 minutes, while I was removing the rear wheel, the bracket broke and the FJR came back down. Fortunately  the center stand was still down so it just dropped a couple of inches onto the center stand. I can't do pictures here but I posted some on FJROwners under the thread "broken seat mount, almost a disaster". 

AS it turned out my relay arm was OK, but I installed the one I got off Ebay anyway. So I now have a used relay arm in pretty good shape, at least the bearings are all nice and the collars are looking good. 

What a pain in the butt the whole thing was. The metal cutting blade I bought online for my HF oscillating tool destroyed itself in about 30 seconds so I had to finish with an old blade and my reciprocating saw. {Sawzall}

I sure don't want to buy and replace the whole rear sub-frame, so if any of you look at those pics and can think of a way to reattach that thin piece of metal,  please advise. J B Weld? Hire a real welder? {I am scared of messing up the electronics}, any opinions are welcome. 

https://imgur.com/PdwVCM2

https://imgur.com/vISJgMr

https://imgur.com/nkHFywn

 
I fear you are in a nine-line bind.  I do not think that metal can be easily welded.  TIG welded, maybe.  Otherwise, you have to replace the entire subframe.

IIRC, the 2-wheel obsession video doesn't depict hanging the bike from that part of the subframe.  I think it hangs it from the Givi SR-357 rack, which should be more supportive.

I'm glad I decided to jack the rear of the bike up on the rear tire axle, and lower the bike on the rear peg supports.  My thinking was that if that support is designed to hold the entire weight of a rear passenger when she/he boards the bike (you have to touch one foot peg first) in a downward direction, then surely it must be strong enough to support 1/2 the weight of the bike (likely less than 1/2 with the rear wheel removed) in an upward direction.

 
I'm reasonably certain a good TIG welder can fix that. Disconnect your battery and paranoid as I am I  would unplug the ECU at least. If the Gen 3 front fairing stay can be repaired that part should be pretty easy to fix as well. It might be easier to repair if you pull that whole subframe and then the electrical system is safe.

 
So I just used a couple of L brackets and bolted the thing back together, and then covered the whole mess, the places where it broke off, and the bolts that hold the piece to the L brackets with a thick paste of JB Weld. Here's the link to what it looks like now, I will sand the JBWeld down and paint it silver later so it isn't quite as gross.

https://imgur.com/dqINaFQ

 
So I just used a couple of L brackets and bolted the thing back together, and then covered the whole mess, the places where it broke off, and the bolts that hold the piece to the L brackets with a thick paste of JB Weld. Here's the link to what it looks like now, I will sand the JBWeld down and paint it silver later so it isn't quite as gross.

https://imgur.com/dqINaFQ
Are the wires ground wires? Not sure the bracket is still electrically grounded anymore. You may have to move those elsewhere.

Dan

 
Are the wires ground wires? Not sure the bracket is still electrically grounded anymore. You may have to move those elsewhere.

Dan
The bracket is bolted to the subframe with three bolts on each side and bolted through a steel L bracket.

The JB Weld, which IS an insulator, not a conductor, was only put on AFTER the bolts and steel L brackets were installed, for reinforcement.

Thanks for bringing this up, If it was only JB Weld on there I would probably have to find another spot for my negative wires. 

 
Agree - cutting the c/s bolts is the hardest part of the job.  I was fortunate enough to have a m/c lift to work from, and not the ground.  Still, that part was a PITA.

 
In my opinion, since the C/S rotates constantly every time it is engaged/disengaged, I think a shoulder at that pivot point would be a better choice.  I replaced mine with OEM (I was ordering Yamaha parts anyway), but since then I have confirmed that our local hardware store had exact replacement size/length.

 
I cut both the front ones off and will run new ones from the inside out.

Much easier the next time.

on a positive note, all the bearings and bushings look great.  Just plan to clean, re-lube and get it back together.

Canadian FJR

 
Actually, I should apologize. Of course, you were referring to the ones that you had to cut. Not sure what I was thinking. 
 

I don’t see how using a non-shouldered bolt would hurt. 

 
I get a perverse sense of accomplishment when I write in my little book the details of whatever maintenance I did on my FJR or one of the 6 cars I maintain for myself and my family. So it was almost with embarrassment, that after almost a week of my FJR hanging in the garage, with me cursing and whining underneath it, I only got to write. "install  used "ebay" relay arm, old one in pretty good shape". LOL

 
I get a perverse sense of accomplishment when I write in my little book the details of whatever maintenance I did on my FJR or one of the 6 cars I maintain for myself and my family. So it was almost with embarrassment, that after almost a week of my FJR hanging in the garage, with me cursing and whining underneath it, I only got to write. "install  used "ebay" relay arm, old one in pretty good shape". LOL
I get it. 

 

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