Removing the Relay Arm

[RossKean]

Use stainless rather than galvanized.

 

[HaulinAshe]

getting ready to tackle this...
please advise: when removing (cutting off) the center stand bolts and putting them in in reverse, do i simply replace with factory bolts? or would i replace with a flanged bolt/nut like this??

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-981531-Screw-Flanged-Class/dp/B00X8PADM4/ref=sr_1_47?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521039366&sr=1-47&keywords=M10+x+1.25+30mm

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076T1Z8TZ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076T1Z8TZ&pd_rd_wg=3wMhm&pd_rd_r=J9AQW4C0HPKXBE64RKXQ&pd_rd_w=Kz92Y

or with a straight bolt/nut like this??

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-429-530-M10-1-25-Class-Screw/dp/B0033YF57S/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521039296&sr=1-13&keywords=M10+x+1.25+30mm

and do i need washers? locking washers?

any grade i need to look for and or type of coating? zinc?

Also, i see some riders adding zerk fittings to all the linkage while off... ive read a lot of links on this, but is there one that's considered the best?

thanks!

looking for guidance...

I recommend using what you refer to as a "straight bolt". At least that's what has always worked for me.

Don't bother with zerk fittings. Use new bearings, bushings and seals, and a high-quality waterproof grease (I prefer Maxima). When you get the chance, pick up a spare relay arm casting and rebuild it for a spare. Swap it out next time in 3-5 years when this one gets all gunky and clunky again.

 

[someguy]

Cool. Good idea

 

[FJR Flyer]

You don't have to cut the bolts. You can maneuver the pipe far enough out to get the bolts out. At least I could. I replaced with stainless and installed in the reverse direction.