Seafoam

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No idea why it works, either - But I've had outstanding luck with the stuff. Fixed a 10-year old 2-stroke weed whacker that wouldn't idle and a 1-year old straight gas rototiller that would only run with the choke on. Now I apply as a prophylactic in all my motors. It may have helped the Feej past a rough idle, although the cure may have been me shoving dielectric grease into the problematic connector on the wiring harness for the fourth or fifth time.

 
It's the only additive that IMO actually does anything. Have had MANY of the same type of results previously mentioned. I ad a half can to every 6th tank of gas on the FJR.

 
Here's my experience:

Wanted a Goldwing I could afford and work on myself. Found on ebay a '83 Interstate with 35k miles. I had been sitting up for over a year, but run ocassionally. Needed some maintence work including fuel system - bike would not idle properly and had the idle set high and would not pull 5th overdrive gear on the highway - missed and power went away at 3/4 to full throttle.

Bought it for $2k and trailered it from Lakeland, FL home to New Orleans. To make it safely rideable, first changed all brake pads, timing belts, thermostat, water pump, plugs, did a valve adjustment, flushed and replaced the coolant, changed the battery, flushed and replaced the brake fluids, replaced all the cables, got new Avon Venoms front & rear. Also had to replace the rear brake rotor. Then took the bike on the road after emptying the tank and replacing the old gas with new pump Chevron Regular (with techron). Road around the neighborhood, and the engine would stumble, loose power, miss, and only idle at 1200 rpm.

Vulcan brethern swear by Seafoam and I had run it periodically in my Vulcan 750 for years. Poured a whole can into the Goldwing's tank and filled it with Chevron. The Goldwing has 4 carbs for the 4 cylinders with manual accelerator pumps that squirt raw fuel into the cylinders when whacking open the throttle.

I took the bike on the Interstate in 4th gear reving it to 6k at 70 mph and road 35 miles to Hammond, LA and 35 miles back. Bike would idle normally after that, but not full 5th gear very well, but runs better. Squirted some Seafoam into the fuel tubing intakes of the carbs with a syringe to load the carbs with the stuff and let sit overnight. Next day, poured another can of Seaform into the tank and topped off with Chevron regular. Did the trip to Hammond and back taking the bike up to 80mph at times and trying 5th overdrive gear. Engine was purring like a kitten on the way home pulling 5th gear hard. Bike has run great ever since.

Seafoam is magic stuff to me.

Mike in Nawlins'

 
I have had really good results with it as well on our lawnmowers, the weedeater, our automobiles and our motorcycles.

I can say that I trust in it too.

 
Of all the voodoo products out there, two come to the top of the list as working, maybe three (I'm sure there are others); the top two are Techron (by Chevron) and Seafoam (highly thought of in the marine industry), and I've had good luck/results using Stabil.

 
from another forum:

Additives

Fuel Additive TESTS (including Seafoam) This can be argued all day, some

time back I looked for objective results. I use Seafoam and

Duralube Fuel System Treatment based on this person's testing. He used

tar (similar to gas varnish buildup) and checked a comprehensive list of

solvents on it. Note where Seafoam was rated. This is the best data

I could find based on some level of testing, hence

I use Seafoam or Duralube. This also indicates not to use STP, I believe last time I had

the tank off the pep-**** screen is nylon.

Background about tests:

As a worst-case sample of material which might

be found in gasoline I used ordinary tar. The brown deposits we find coating

carburetors, and which collects in fuel injectors and on intake valves, are

the highest boiling components in gasoline. They are tar-like materials

which distilled along with the lighter gasoline.

The best solvent I've ever seen for these was methylene chloride, but it's

expensive and I'm sure it's being phased out to protect our ozone layer. In

any case, if you used it on a modern car the chlorine freed during

combustion would corrode the oxygen sensor. Amoco advertises a cleaner

gasoline and I'm sure it's because they've reduced these tar-like

compounds. All gas these days contains at least a little detergent of some

sort to help keep these deposits from building up too much.

Dimethylformamide is listed in the literature as being a good engine cleaner

and is "especially good at dissolving carbonaceous deposits". I haven't

used this myself because it is a bit too toxic. Instead I used N-methyl

pyrrolidone, which is also good.

For my tests, I tried to use a wide variety of products, well known and

unknown, expensive and cheap, and also some pure solvents in order to

represent a good cross section of products on the market. Note, carbon

itself (such as soot and other thermally decomposed material) is not soluble

in ANY solvent but solvents like dimethylformamide and N-methyl

pyrrolidone do a good job of breaking up clumps and dispersing the fine

particles to release the heavy tarry materials trapped within them. However,

some of these solvents are too harsh to use freely in the fuel system.

(Someone in one of these forums told me that when the auto industry looks

for good cleaners, they mostly look for solvents that will not attack the

plastic and rubber parts in the system.)

Most cleaners (the safer & slightly less effective ones) usually have

common solvents in them like toluene, alcohol, acetone or methyl ethyl

ketone, and naphtha. If you want to use these to clean your system, you

can get more for your money by buying the pure solvents at a hardware

store and mixing them yourself. I have never had a problem adding toluene,

acetone, alcohol, or naphtha to my gas tank in quantities up to one quart

per 16 gallons.

Most of the straight solvents I used are at least as flammable as gasoline

so be careful if you use them. The alcohol used was pure, 100% isopropyl

alcohol. This has no water in it, it is not the same as "rubbing alcohol".

These test results are as fairly and accurately done as I could manage with

the equipment I had available, and the other data presented is also

accurate to my knowledge. Your car may have different plastics in it than

mine does so if you choose to make your own cleaner, do it at your own

risk.

TEST RESULTS RELATIVE EFFICIENCIES AT WHICH VARIOUS

CLEANERS WILL DISSOLVE HIGH BOILING RESIDUES FROM

GASOLINE AND CARBONACEOUS DEPOSITS FOUND IN USED

MOTOR OIL, (10=BEST): ·

10 Gunk Gas Treatment ·

10 Toluene (a common ingredient) ·

9 Castrol Syntec Power System ·

8 Duralube Fuel System Cleaner ·

7 Gunk Fuel Injector Cleaner ·

6 Redline SI-1 ·

5 Gunk Air Intake Cleaner ·

4 Naphtha (a common ingredient) ·

4 STP Fuel System Cleaner ·

4 Seafoam Motor Tuneup ·

4 Trak Fuel Injector Cleaner ·

4 STP Intake Valve Cleaner ·

4 CD-2 Emission Cure ·

4 Prolong Fuel System Treatment ·

3 CD-2 Fuel Injector Cleaner ·

3 Techron Concentrate ·

0.5 Butyl Cellosolve (a COMMONLY used "AUTO INDUSTRY

DETERGENT" for oil and grease)

THE FOLLOWING CLEANERS DO NOT HURT NYLON (LISTED

RANDOMLY).

(The letters in parentheses indicate how well they dissolved

the material from used oil, A=best.): ·

Toluene (A) ·

2-Phenoxyethanol (A) ·

Duralube Fuel System Treatment ( B) <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< ·

B-12 Chemtool ( B) ·

Trak Fuel Injector Cleaner © ·

Techron Concentrate (D) ·

STP Intake Valve Cleaner (E) ·

Seafoam Motor Tuneup <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< ·

CD-2 Emission Cure ·

Prolong Fuel System Treatment ·

Aromatic distillates · Naphtha · Butyl cellosolve · Acetone

THE FOLLOWING CLEANERS WILL DECOMPOSE THE NYLON SOCK

IN THE FUEL TANK. Listed in order of increasing severity:

· STP Fuel System Treatment

· CD-2 Fuel Injector Cleaner

· Gunk Fuel Injector Cleaner

Castrol Syntec Power System

· Redline SI-1 · Gunk Gas Treatment

· Monoethanolamine (The monoethanolamine is the worst here. It turns

nylon black on contact.

It is significant to note here that the "best" "detergents" in use today are

similar, strongly alkaline organic solvents). Another use for the current

bunch of organic amine "detergents" is cleaning deposits out of cylinders,

so I hear. I hope this takes the guesswork out of choosing good products.

Seafoam -injector cleaner -carb cleaner -carbon cleaner -fuel stabilizer -

deicer anti gel treatment -upper cyl lube -frees lifters and rings -dries oil and

fuel ...all in one can!

 
I know this is an old post. I wanted to make a comment about Seafoam, so I found this thread by googling.
In any event, Seafoam shows up from time to time and is generally strongly recommended by many people.

Curious about what it is, I looked at the MSDS info this evening.

The composition is about half pale oil, about a third naptha (benzine), and about a sixth isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). I'm having a hard time understanding why this should do anything useful as a gasoline additive. It might absorb water, but straight isopropyl alcohol, or even methanol or ethanol have the ability to do that. None of these components have specific detergent qualities. Pale oil is just .... well.... light colored oil, like 3 in 1. What purpose does this serve except to act as a carrier for the naptha and the isopropyl alcohol? Naptha may already be in your gasoline blend. Its just a common hydrocarbon.

Is the effectiveness of Seafoam just another urban myth?
El Bull -

I'm an ungeneer, not a chemist, but I do sleep a lot in Holiday Inns and other fine hotels...

Seriously, I worked for a number of years on a project involving fuels, learned a little, and am convinced there is something to the old stories regarding a little naptha keeping fuel stable. The petroleums in your regular gasoline are a series of hydrocarbon molecules, ranging from real light ones to sorta heavy ones. Think in terms of a normalized distribution curve like this, with heavier molecules on the left and light ones on the right, while the vertical scale is just a count:

normal%20curve%202.GIF


If the peak of the curve is slightly toward having more of the heavier hydrocarbons, you've got diesel fuel. If you've got more hydrocarbons that are slightly lighter, the peak will shift to the right and you have gasoline. (Obviously leaving out additives, alchohol, etc) The problem is that the lighter hydrocarbons are the ones that evaporate, leaving the heavy ones.

Naptha is waaay over to the lighter right end of this curve. That means that if you were to count and plot the hydrocarbon molecules, the curve would have a second little hump off to the right. (No kinkiness there, Tyler) Naptha is a very light hydrocarbon, so it can act as a mild cleaner, but it is still in the range of what the seals and plastics can stand, especially in such small amounts. It also would add to the count of the lighter molecules, which are the ones that evaporate, so the gasoline should remain viable for longer.

They probably added alchohol as an additional cleaner, to help ignition after sitting, and to absorb water. Modern gas has lots of alchohol that wasn't used in fuel when Seafoam was introduced, so I don't see that as a plus anymore. The oil may act as a metals preservative, but I'm not sure. Subjectively, I have less problems with engines that sit when they have been running Seafoam.

As for the other stories about naptha increasing mileage, I remain highly skeptical unless in using harmful quantities.

Checks

 
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wish i'd been around in '06. my recommendation would have been for the fj owner to get the bike on a trailer and get it to the fj rally in may or september. we (okay, not me as much as the other guys) would have gotten it in top shape.

i've heard good things about seafoam as a regularly-added maintenance thing. i've also heard good things about bg44k, which i now use as a regular (5k miles or so) additive.

re: neglected carbs, nothing beats pulling them, breaking them down and soaking needed parts in berrymans. just wear gloves and goggles unless you want to alter your dna.

hth,

 
No idea why it works, either - But I've had outstanding luck with the stuff. Fixed a 10-year old 2-stroke weed whacker that wouldn't idle and a 1-year old straight gas rototiller that would only run with the choke on. Now I apply as a prophylactic in all my motors. It may have helped the Feej past a rough idle, although the cure may have been me shoving dielectric grease into the problematic connector on the wiring harness for the fourth or fifth time.
SeaFoam is great stuff. I've been using it in all of my stuff for six or so years. Bike, scooter, truck, suv, snowthrower, chainsaws, weed whacker, snowmobiles - no problems. I use it as a storage additive and every so often.

Chris Prior

 
Another big plus 1 for Seafoam! My DRZ400 has been sitting a bit too long and would only run with full choke and wouldn't take any throttle without quitting. One 16oz. bottle and she runs like a ***** ape again! The best $10.99 I could've spent and much easier than pulling the carb and teaching the Gkids new 4 letter words. Amazing stuff, think I'll use some in the FJR just in case.

 
My 03 lives with Sea Foam all the time nd an extra dose for winter storage. I have used it for at least 15 years.

It's not bad with Tonic and ice either. :rolleyes:

 
I've done a fair bit of light researching of (ethanol) fuel problems and additives to cure this and that over the last couple of years. I ain't no chemist either, but I like the technical details posted and the advice to tear down the carbs if a Seafoam soak doesn't work. However, ever try to remove glue residue with lacquer thinner (toluene, or harsh solvents)? Doesn't work and evaporates way too fast. The slow acting solvent that works the best is naptha, and it won't harm much, including your precious paint. That's why the gums in your fuel system will dissolve over time and you see better performance in carbeureted machines. And guess why people love WD40..... yep, naptha.

The other problem we get is water in the fuel from ethanol fuel phase separation, and isopropanol will absorb more water than etha- or metha- alcohols.... or so I have read.

So, it all makes sense to me.

 
...I noticed Exxon is not on the list...
https://www.exxon.com/USA-English/GFM/fuels.aspx

"Exxon and Mobil Fuels

For decades, Exxon and Mobil have provided reliable and trusted fuels that not only meet, but exceed customer confidence and expectations. At home or on the move, quality performance is at the heart of every product we sell. We are proud of our longstanding reputation for excellence in our industry and will continue to anticipate and meet the growing needs of consumers. And rest assured, Exxon and Mobil branded retail gasolines meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards."

I think they just don't want to pay for the Rights to be labeled as such.

 
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