SHAD SH50 Install

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nervous

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This is my 2009 sporting the gloss black SH50. The color is a nearly perfect color match right down to the little sparkles in the paint. Great case and (I think) an excellent complement to the rest of the bikes aesthetics. Thanks to all the find folks at SHAD! I have now had the opportunity to own both Givi Monokey systems and a Shad. My immediate reaction when all was done was how well designed these three Shad items are. They installed incredibly easy, fit perfectly from the start and just have the aura of quality. And, while my prior Givi items were good their fitment (especially racks) left much to be desired at times and often to scream "LOOK AT ME, I'M A GIVI !!" as opposed to an item like the Shad rear mounting rack which, with the box off, looks nearly OEM as if it was meant to be there. I like that. It's not looking like a tacked-on doo-dad. With the box on, all you need is a matching Yamaha emblem (which I am seriously mulling) placed on the top rear of the cover and it could look completely factory installed.

We'll start with the installation of the Y0FJ16ST.

Simply remove the three chrome 10mm bolts and on it goes. Could not be an easier installation.





Next comes the actual top case rack. First you separate the top plastic piece



from the steel lower piece.



Now mount the lower steel piece to the previously installed Y0FJ16ST with 4 allen head bolts and nuts. The only mildly tricky part here is the tight quarters where the nuts need to be held on the front two bolts. I dropped teh nut a few times until I developed a method for holding it in place as the threads got started. After that it was easy going.





The rearmost bolts have plenty of room.



Then, just replace the top plastic rack cover with the four screws and the rearmost bolt /nut/two washer combo.



Don't forget to install the two small front side screws. I found it easiest to do these first, before doing the final tightening of the four top, rack cover screws. It made alignment easier. And, they don't go all the way in as far as I can tell. This was the only odd thing to me.





As I mentioned at the start I think that the rack alone looks very good.





And, now all installed and ready to use. Enjoy.























And, as a value you can get into a color matched box and mount with the backrest already installed for less than the cost of a comparable Givi system. And I can add that I found the Shad customer service to be exceptional which gives me a great peace of mind should I ever need anything from them. I can't think I'd get that sort of factory direct attention and service from the folks at Givi. I have not had the opportunity to try but mostly everything that I have seen related to that was usually done through a second or third party reseller.

Whatever your final decision I do hope you find this helpful.

 
That's a nice looking box!

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Sweet ride and the box looks nice...

I would have no issue installing a Shad. I was just dead set on the Admore light kit in the Givi E55. GIVI USA top box support is good, I'm sure SHAD will be as well.

 
Not to scare you, but a note of caution with loading the top box on mounting plates that do not tie into the subframe.

Subframe
And this has been my one and only concern with the Shad.
That same concern should also extend to the OEM box and mount and the Givi E228 mount as well, no? I am in agreement that the SR357 is a better option and the Shad plate might bolt right up to that, not 100% sure, maybe with a couple additional holes drilled. But, odds being what they are, I think the majority of folks with top cases for whatever vendor are utilizing just the OEM rear section and there does not seem to be a multitude of broken subframes. In the thread that was referenced there may have been some extenuating circumstances it seems, perhaps a bit out of the ordinary stressing. I agree, again, that stronger is always better but given how I'll use the case and the large number of folks that are using similar setups with no issues I am fairly comfortable with things as they are for now.

Down the road I might look closer at the SR357. If any members who already have one get near central NY and want to let me have a look and take some measurements that would also be helpful to everyone.

 
Not to scare you, but a note of caution with loading the top box on mounting plates that do not tie into the subframe.

Subframe
And this has been my one and only concern with the Shad.
That same concern should also extend to the OEM box and mount and the Givi E228 mount as well, no? I am in agreement that the SR357 is a better option and the Shad plate might bolt right up to that, not 100% sure, maybe with a couple additional holes drilled. But, odds being what they are, I think the majority of folks with top cases for whatever vendor are utilizing just the OEM rear section and there does not seem to be a multitude of broken subframes. In the thread that was referenced there may have been some extenuating circumstances it seems, perhaps a bit out of the ordinary stressing. I agree, again, that stronger is always better but given how I'll use the case and the large number of folks that are using similar setups with no issues I am fairly comfortable with things as they are for now.

Down the road I might look closer at the SR357. If any members who already have one get near central NY and want to let me have a look and take some measurements that would also be helpful to everyone.
Correct, kind of... Yamaha covers there own *** with the OEM set up by stating weight capacity shall not exceed 11 lbs. Just putting it out there.. A subframe repair or replace is a $$ PITA.

 
Not to scare you, but a note of caution with loading the top box on mounting plates that do not tie into the subframe.

Subframe
And this has been my one and only concern with the Shad.
That same concern should also extend to the OEM box and mount and the Givi E228 mount as well, no? I am in agreement that the SR357 is a better option and the Shad plate might bolt right up to that, not 100% sure, maybe with a couple additional holes drilled. But, odds being what they are, I think the majority of folks with top cases for whatever vendor are utilizing just the OEM rear section and there does not seem to be a multitude of broken subframes. In the thread that was referenced there may have been some extenuating circumstances it seems, perhaps a bit out of the ordinary stressing. I agree, again, that stronger is always better but given how I'll use the case and the large number of folks that are using similar setups with no issues I am fairly comfortable with things as they are for now.

Down the road I might look closer at the SR357. If any members who already have one get near central NY and want to let me have a look and take some measurements that would also be helpful to everyone.
Correct, kind of... Yamaha covers there own *** with the OEM set up by stating weight capacity shall not exceed 11 lbs. Just putting it out there.. A subframe repair or replace is a $$ PITA.
Understood. i looked at the rack on my '09 and it appears to attach at all the same points that the Givi SR357 does. Now, ignoring the fact that the Givi is steel and the OEM is aluminum, why aren't they both transferring the exacy same load stresses to the subframe? How is the Givi different.

 
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