SHFT_26 AGAIN! - AS OF JULY 1, FJRHELL IS OVER!!

[RadioHowie]

Well, just like Toyota dealerships, Honda dealers are unsure of what to do if a mechanical failure shows up, being as they have only oil change bays and personnel. Checked a GW forum or 2 and damn if some there aren't some people complaining of issues! I know, floored me too!
Seriously, your bike has a problem, always has, the cause has yet to be found. I don't know if you've had issues other than the Wonder-ShiftOmatic®, but as I alluded to previously, Yam does make a FJR without it. Were it me, and patience was running out, the dealer would be talked into one hell of a deal on a new machine sans the Super-TouchShift®.

All this time I thought it was LameOShift®. Comes standard with Yamaha's patented "ElectricalMeltdown" Technology.

I love what this forum has taught me.

 

[Shane Stump]

Well, just like Toyota dealerships, Honda dealers are unsure of what to do if a mechanical failure shows up, being as they have only oil change bays and personnel. Checked a GW forum or 2 and damn if some there aren't some people complaining of issues! I know, floored me too!
Seriously, your bike has a problem, always has, the cause has yet to be found. I don't know if you've had issues other than the Wonder-ShiftOmatic®, but as I alluded to previously, Yam does make a FJR without it. Were it me, and patience was running out, the dealer would be talked into one hell of a deal on a new machine sans the Super-TouchShift®.

To be honest, I am not sure the problem is the shifter. It has been "blamed" but amazing how after they fixed it the first time, the problems just cascaded other places. Now it seems like I am starting over.... I hope this current situation can easily be identified and explained as just another bad mishap, but ....

I do agreed that most dealers don't know how to handle this because the FJR when it is running properly, it is bulletproof. Not sure what changed in mine but I just wish they would fix it. I don't have a lot of free time these days and when I do have it, I love just going out and just riding to various places I have looked @ on a map even if I won't find them interesting when I get there.

Having my FJR leave me stranded several times @ over 200 miles from home is NOT what I call relaxing (and always on a Sunday)!

Any how, I appreciate all of you letting me vent!

Best regards,

Shane

 

[dsmack]

Shane ~ For my money, you're to be commended for your patience!

I certainly agree that spending a nice Sunday afternoon in the cab of a flat bed rollback tow truck is not the way to be spending your time, especially repetitively :angry:

I'm sincerely hoping that this 3rd dealer will be the one with an excellent tech and service manager who will take the time to really diagnose your recurring problems, apply the necessary expertise where needed, and solve your problem once, and for all!

Electrical gremlins can be such a bitch...

Good luck, my man!

Don

 

[dcarver]

Shane,

Have the dealer carefully examine the ground connections described in this thread.

It could easily be the source of your problems - a faulty ground sending current elsewhere in the loom thus fooling the ECU into identifying the shift-26 error.

 

[radman]

Shane,
Have the dealer carefully examine the ground connections described in this thread.

It could easily be the source of your problems - a faulty ground sending current elsewhere in the loom thus fooling the ECU into identifying the shift-26 error.

Good call DC.

 

[McRuss]

Interesting thread....my only comment is that I have a 2004, Gen I if you will, FJR1300 with almost 58,000 miles. It has been trouble free with two exceptions: four rear flat tires (it has an unnatural attraction for nails and such) and a tendency to not start after it has sat for a few weeks. It has never left me and I'm convinced it never will. I wouldn't hesitate to take off on a 5,000 mile trip tomorrow; this is a bike that will be with me for a long time. Now if I could just keep it away from sharp things!

Thanks for 'listening' and enjoy the 'wing if you decide to go that way. But go that way, if you will, because you want a 'wing and not because the FJRs (in general) are not dependable.

 

[fjrthree]

I would be curious also as to what Yamaha would work out for you on newer model. Possibly recoup the money(and more). Good luck with it all and hope it all works out.

 

[Shane Stump]

I would be curious also as to what Yamaha would work out for you on newer model. Possibly recoup the money(and more). Good luck with it all and hope it all works out.

I am suppose to hear the diagnosis / fix from dealer #3 on Monday.

I am already typing up a new letter to corporate Yamaha in Japan and I am going to ask for an allowance for a new bike (trade-in). I honestly don't expect it as the attitude seems to be "give us a chance to fix it". The problem is my parents / wife now want me to get rid of it because they don't want to worry about the bike losing power while I have a big rig behind me.

I will keep y'all posted!

Thanks for letting me vent!

Shane

 

[BwanaDik]

Monday? You've found a shop that's open on Monday?

 

[Shane Stump]

Monday? You've found a shop that's open on Monday?

Go 30 miles up I45 from where you are and take the exit for HWY 19 and go East. They will be on your right!

Best regards,

Shane

 

[Shadow]

You are a patient man Shane.

I would have traded it in by now, after all it seemed like mechanic 1 or 2 had fixed the problem.

Now mechanic 3 is going to have a try.

I would tell Yamaha that if it happens again after number 3 they can pick up the recovery tab and replace the bike with a brand new one.

 

[Shane Stump]

You are a patient man Shane.
I would have traded it in by now, after all it seemed like mechanic 1 or 2 had fixed the problem.

Now mechanic 3 is going to have a try.

I would tell Yamaha that if it happens again after number 3 they can pick up the recovery tab and replace the bike with a brand new one.

I sent a letter to corporate Yamaha (Japan) this morning continuing my first letter of early March and I told them I am now at the end of my patience. The other problem is now my wife and parents want me to get rid of the bike because they don't want to be attending my funeral when the bike loses power.

I have asked Corporate Yamaha to give me a good trade-in value towards a 2009 FJR 1300 AE and they can take my bike back to where ever they want and dissect it to figure out the ACTUAL cause of all the electrical problems.

I will report back when I hear their response.

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[PA1195]

I have no experience with an AE except for sitting on one at my Dealership. I looked in my Service Manual and Fault Code SH_26 indicates abnormal clutch movement when the main switch is first turned ON (clutch motor current is too high when automatically disengaging the clutch prior to start-up). The bike is unable to start or run if that Code is detected. Ok nothing new there for you except frustration and loathing. The high current could be from a hydraulic or mechanical problem I believe. Unfortunately they don't describe the desired current specs anywhere that I can find. Involved are the actuator motor, slave cylinder, hydraulic system, and of course the clutch actuator rod assembly and clutch pack similar to the A models. Any high system hydraulic or mechanical resistance could cause a high current demand in the clutch motor. I'm not sure what a high electrical resistance from corroded connectors would do to the clutch motor assembly. Note: the auto clutch components are controlled directly by the MCU (AE's motor control unit).

The Manual says that the clutch actuator test procedure (SH_63) cannot be enabled in the AE Diagnostic mode if SH_26 is called = can't even test the clutch actuator with the 26 Code detected. You have to fix potential problems and erase Fault Codes as described before the auto clutch can be tested and/or the bike started.

Next, for SH_26 it says to:

1. Check for clutch fluid leakage and correct level.

2. Bleed any air from the clutch hydraulic system and check for clutch stroke (I assume that involves either examining the clutch pack or setting the movement described in SH_66).

I presume the Dealers you've taken the bike to have done these procedures and the problem still exists? Did they document what they've done? What did they do?

Does the bike just flat quit when underway, or just refuse to start after a run at key-on?

If the bike were mine and I had access to a Service Manual I'd do just what Yamaha suggests as a service procedure, confirm the Fault Code(s), then erase any present. Then do the clutch and gearshift setup test procedures SH-63 to 66 as described. That should set the bike up properly. If it then fails, it may be due an electrical connector or component problem, and not a hydraulic or mechanical issue.

As some have correctly suggested, check for proper connector coupling and grounding of the YCC-S system.

That's what should have been done so far by the servicing personnel in my very humble opinion. Anything less is just shotgunning the problem. For some, every day's not Christmas, and every night's not New Years. Grind away at them and best of luck with Yamaha Corporate.

Gary in Fairbanks

 

[Shane Stump]

I have no experience with an AE except for sitting on one at my Dealership. I looked in my Service Manual and Fault Code SH_26 indicates abnormal clutch movement when the main switch is first turned ON (clutch motor current is too high when automatically disengaging the clutch prior to start-up). The bike is unable to start or run if that Code is detected. Ok nothing new there for you except frustration and loathing. The high current could be from a hydraulic or mechanical problem I believe. Unfortunately they don't describe the desired current specs anywhere that I can find. Involved are the actuator motor, slave cylinder, hydraulic system, and of course the clutch actuator rod assembly and clutch pack similar to the A models. Any high system hydraulic or mechanical resistance could cause a high current demand in the clutch motor. I'm not sure what a high electrical resistance from corroded connectors would do to the clutch motor assembly. Note: the auto clutch components are controlled directly by the MCU (AE's motor control unit).
The Manual says that the clutch actuator test procedure (SH_63) cannot be enabled in the AE Diagnostic mode if SH_26 is called = can't even test the clutch actuator with the 26 Code detected. You have to fix potential problems and erase Fault Codes as described before the auto clutch can be tested and/or the bike started.

Next, for SH_26 it says to:

1. Check for clutch fluid leakage and correct level.

2. Bleed any air from the clutch hydraulic system and check for clutch stroke (I assume that involves either examining the clutch pack or setting the movement described in SH_66).

I presume the Dealers you've taken the bike to have done these procedures and the problem still exists? Did they document what they've done? What did they do?

Does the bike just flat quit when underway, or just refuse to start after a run at key-on?

If the bike were mine and I had access to a Service Manual I'd do just what Yamaha suggests as a service procedure, confirm the Fault Code(s), then erase any present. Then do the clutch and gearshift setup test procedures SH-63 to 66 as described. That should set the bike up properly. If it then fails, it may be due an electrical connector or component problem, and not a hydraulic or mechanical issue.

As some have correctly suggested, check for proper connector coupling and grounding of the YCC-S system.

That's what should have been done so far by the servicing personnel in my very humble opinion. Anything less is just shotgunning the problem. For some, every day's not Christmas, and every night's not New Years. Grind away at them and best of luck with Yamaha Corporate.

Gary in Fairbanks

Gary,

Last August they did all of that and then replaced the YCCS computer (probably nothing wrong with it). The bike worked flawlessly the few times after that and then my other electrical nightmares began.

Since last August, my bike has been to 3 dealers for a total of 4+ months. To be fair to the 3rd dealer, they just got my bike last Tuesday.

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[dhillis]

Shane,

as PA said, the full clutch bleeding service is key to getting the SH_26 to stop. You should ask your dealer if they just did a quick bleed of the clutch or did they actually use the manual clutch actuator bolt to work the clutch and get all the air out of the system. Doing the full service is a bitch and takes forever, but it's the only way. Chances are the dealer read the part in the service manual about taking the entire rear part of the bike off, including the swingarm to get to that bolt and they said they hell with it. However, I did find a much easier way to get to that bolt. You should give that a try... PM me if you have questions.

Take care,

Dan

 

[Shane Stump]

Shane,
as PA said, the full clutch bleeding service is key to getting the SH_26 to stop. You should ask your dealer if they just did a quick bleed of the clutch or did they actually use the manual clutch actuator bolt to work the clutch and get all the air out of the system. Doing the full service is a bitch and takes forever, but it's the only way. Chances are the dealer read the part in the service manual about taking the entire rear part of the bike off, including the swingarm to get to that bolt and they said they hell with it. However, I did find a much easier way to get to that bolt. You should give that a try... PM me if you have questions.

Take care,

Dan

Dan,

They did the full-bleed the first time the bike was in the shop. I got the bike back and it seemed to work until it left me stranded again 200 miles from home. The next time it at the dealer, Yamaha had them replace the YCCS computer....

I find it hard to believe this problem has reoccurred in less than 10 months (especially since 4 of those months the bike was at a dealer)!

I am still waiting to hear from Yamaha to hopefully bring closure to this nightmare.

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[PA1195]

Hello Shane. Some quick questions out of curiosity and I'll quit making things worse for you. Answer only if you have the patience and time.

According to the SM, once a SH_26 Fault Code is detected to bike won't start or shift. Have you ever been able to start the bike or shift without clearing the Fault Code(s)? Has the Fault Code(s) ever just "disappeared" after being detected? Have you ever cleared the Fault Code(s) yourself, and then had the problem go away for some time?

The clutch bleeding and release stroke test procedure appear to be a PIA, unless Dan's method is used. I'd make sure the Service Personnel actually performed them as he has suggested.

The SM also briefly mentions that the connections to the MCU are subject to poor connections from dirt. Have they been periodically removed and inspected?

Gary in Fairbanks

 

[Shane Stump]

Hello Shane. Some quick questions out of curiosity and I'll quit making things worse for you. Answer only if you have the patience and time.
According to the SM, once a SH_26 Fault Code is detected to bike won't start or shift. Have you ever been able to start the bike or shift without clearing the Fault Code(s)? Has the Fault Code(s) ever just "disappeared" after being detected? Have you ever cleared the Fault Code(s) yourself, and then had the problem go away for some time?

The clutch bleeding and release stroke test procedure appear to be a PIA, unless Dan's method is used. I'd make sure the Service Personnel actually performed them as he has suggested.

The SM also briefly mentions that the connections to the MCU are subject to poor connections from dirt. Have they been periodically removed and inspected?

Gary in Fairbanks

Gary,

Sometimes I can clear the SHFT_26 by rocking the bike back & forth and it starts right up! Other times, I can sit there for hours and it won't get out of the mode. I asked Yamaha if the service was done and they were told by the dealer that did it that it was done correctly (so I have to assume it was). I don't know about the MCU ... I will have to ask the dealer when they call me with the prognosis!

BTW, thanks for the ideas!

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[dcarver]

Sounds like Shane needs to move to Fairbanks? Wow, what an epic journey..

 

[PA1195]

Hello Shane. Some quick questions out of curiosity and I'll quit making things worse for you. Answer only if you have the patience and time.
According to the SM, once a SH_26 Fault Code is detected to bike won't start or shift. Have you ever been able to start the bike or shift without clearing the Fault Code(s)? Has the Fault Code(s) ever just "disappeared" after being detected? Have you ever cleared the Fault Code(s) yourself, and then had the problem go away for some time?

The clutch bleeding and release stroke test procedure appear to be a PIA, unless Dan's method is used. I'd make sure the Service Personnel actually performed them as he has suggested.

The SM also briefly mentions that the connections to the MCU are subject to poor connections from dirt. Have they been periodically removed and inspected?

Gary in Fairbanks

Gary,

Sometimes I can clear the SHFT_26 by rocking the bike back & forth and it starts right up! Other times, I can sit there for hours and it won't get out of the mode. I asked Yamaha if the service was done and they were told by the dealer that did it that it was done correctly (so I have to assume it was). I don't know about the MCU ... I will have to ask the dealer when they call me with the prognosis!

BTW, thanks for the ideas!

Best Regards,

Shane

Hmmmmm. According to what I read in my SM, if you turn on the ignition, see a SH-26 Fault Code, then turn off the key, the Code gets stored in the MCU memory. You won't see it again on the display (YCC-S indicator) unless you enable the Diagnostic Mode by shorting the YCC-S test coupler in the left front of the bike with a special switch (or simple wire), and go through the procedure to read the Codes and deal with them. The SM says the bike is disabled (won't start if not yet running - won't shift if running) if SH_26 is read until the YCC-system is reset and no more Fault Codes are read.

Soooo, how did the bike start after reading and storing the SH_26 Code? I doesn't make sense to me that the Code was cleared by just rocking the bike back and forth, and not going through the reset procedure they describe. I think I'd check the MCU (AE brain) connections for integrity as a start for the reasons described below.

I suppose it's possible that if either power to (B+ via the YCC motor fuse circuit), or ground from (B- via a bad connection as mentioned before) goes open, the MCU's power is momentarily interrupted and it's memory is lost. Next time this problem happens unplug the YCC motor control fuse (location?) to remove B+ power from the MCU and replace after a waiting period. The fused B+ power doesn't go through the ignition switch and comes directly from the battery B+. If the Code gets reset and the bike then starts, we'll know that the memory's been reset to "0" Fault Codes by power interruption. You could do the same with the MCU ground connection of course. Or rock the bike if there's a bad connection for either B+ or B-.

Then the bike may run until yet another SH_ 26 is detected. The source of the SH_26 indication may come and go, but really needs to be addressed once and for all. If the clutch hydraulics are properly bled and the clutch release proper, then it could be that the clutch actuator sensor (#55) and/or motor (#56 in the wiring diagram) are defective (one assembled unit I believe), and give rise to a high current reading that sets off the Fault Code. Replace and test.

Move to Fairbanks as DC has suggested. Today it's +36F with rain in the valley floor, and snow at higher elevations. No chance for throwing Fault Codes today. GL.

Gary in Fairbanks