Sight Glass Concerns

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Try draining the oil very slowly by just cracking the drain bolt so it leaks rather than drains. Watch the sight glass for changes as it drains. You will know it when you see it. As soon as you see a line in the sight glass quickly close the drain plug.
+1

I see no need to drain ALL the oil if it was recently changed, and has simply been over filled. The crush washer that's under the drain plug can easily survive having the drain bolt loosened and re-tightened one time. Also +1 on not using the factory torque spec for the drain bolt - it's way too high. Use hand tools and don't bust your balls tightening the drain bolt. If yer gruntin', yer pushin too hard on the wrench.

 
Read all the above posts again and figure it out. It is an easy fix.

Get the proper tools i.e. 17 MM socket.

As said above - don't torque the drain bolt to 31 as per the manual, use around 22 ft/lbs.

Do it in stages. Set the torque wrench to 15 and do it up. Then set the wrench to 20~24 and do it up.

You can ruin the oil pans threads at 31 ft/lbs with all the oil changes you must do during the bike's life.

The "Low Oil Light" is not a low oil pressure light, it is a low oil level light. When the key is turned on the lamp lights for a second or so, to check that the lamp works. To check the complete system, when it's empty after draining oil, turn key on (don't start it) & while adding 3rd quart of oil, the lamp should go out. At times, when running w/minimum oil level, light will blink on in curves.

The FJR takes approx 3.8 qt without filter change and approx 4 qt with filter change.

Oil changes and level checks should be done on the center stand.

After changing oil/filter as per the manual, running it and letting it cool off,

the oil should be up to the middle of the sight glass when cold.

-This is a guide only, but it works on my 04.

 
lots of good advice here.

biggest suggestion I would give you is get a flashlight. Wipe off the sight glass and put your flashlight on it. have someone start the bike and see what happens.

one of three things:

1. you will see oil level line appear in the sight glass - meaning that you over filled a bit. if so - I would drain some out. or

2. You will see nothing - which leaves 2 alternatives

a. you have grossly over filled and you definitely need to start draining out

b. or you have underfilled from the start.

3. for any of these scenarios - you are going to have to crack open the drain plug (don't use that crescent wrench) - and watch. if the oil line appears in a half a quart or a quart you are good to go.

if the oil line appears after 2 quarts.... you probably saved yourself some problems down the line

if the oil line never appears after <4 quarts - then you have probably saved yourself a major problem and...

Congratulations -- you've just done your first oil change. Go ahead and pull the filter while you are at it - put on a new one - new crush washer and 4 quarts (and maybe a smidge more) and you are good to go for a few thousand miles.

just make sure you buy the correct oil, filter and crush washer.

and don't forget to tighten up that drain bolt. I've never torqued one in my life - just snug that puppy down and check it for leaks after your first ride.

 
Remove the oil fill plug from your FJR. Take the oil dipstick out of your car, wipe it off good, and dip it into your FJR. That should answer your question as to whether or not there is oil in there. If you are overfilled, drain out the excess. It might be easier to drain out just part of the oil by loosening the oil filter rather than removing the drain plug. You'll need the correct oil filter wrench to loosen the filter without damaging it.

 
I ran mine about 3/4 of a quart low after an oil change. The light came on right away. I vote over filled. The drain plug is not that hard to access. You should be able to let a quart out with out dropping all the oil.

 
Is it ok to use a crescent wrench on the drain plug, or, is it necessary to use a torque wrench, like noted in the Owner's Manual? If a torque wrench is recommended, what size wrench and socket should be utilized?
Never ever use a crescent wrench (AKA a universal strip it wrench)!

Use a wrench or socket. If you don't have one buy a basic metric tool set.
I doubt you could get a crescent wrench on the drain plug even if you wanted to. There is a ring protruding from the pan that wraps about half way around the outside of the drain plug that will prevent you from fitting anything other than a socket or box wrench.

 
OK, I've read the owner's manual, FAQ re: oil level and this thread and totally confused myself, so I am going to ask for advice.

My bike had the 600mile checkup at the dealer yesterday (Mechanic is top notch and owns an '03 FJR. I trust him). I went for a ride (twisties and some straight stretches up to 70-80) and no probs. Warmed the engine up and went for a ride this morning and 2-3 miles out the oil light came on solid for a few seconds (that I noticed), but went out as I slowed and pulled into a gas station. There was a sweeper at that point but no hard turns.

The oil on the centerstand was at the top of the sight glass, and there was a small bubble of air at the top. I gingerly rode the bike and everything seemed fine, so I rode the same route the light had come on and nothing. No problems, so I cranked it a little. Still no problems. I drove back to my driveway and let it sit for 15 minutes and checked the garage to see if I had any leaks I missed earlier. None. No blow-by that I can see.

I checked and the level was at the top of the sight glass after those 15 minutes. I started the engine on the center stand in Neutral and the level came down in the normal range but high in the normal range.

Does this seem like anything for concern?

Thanks guys..........

 
Since the light is controlled by an oil level sensor and does not detect oil pressure, I would say the oil level sensor had gotten stuck. It would be interesting to know at what point the light actually comes on. Yours may be set to light up at a level that is a bit higher than most. Either way, if you know there's plenty of oil in there then don't worry about the oil level light.

Of course, if you are under warranty you should expect the oil level indicator to work as designed so, if this happens again, you may want to get it looked at.

 
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Since the light is controlled by an oil level sensor and does not detect oil pressure, I would say the oil level sensor had gotten stuck. It would be interesting to know at what point the light actually comes on. Yours may be set to light up at a level that is a bit higher than most. Either way, if you know there's plenty of oil in there then don't worry about the oil level light.
Of course, if you are under warranty you should expect the oil level indicator to work as designed so, if this happens again, you may want to get it looked at.

Thanks Geezer, I called the dealer too and they said it was a non-issue and that either there was a shift in oil as I did a sweeper/and or maybe a sensor problem (such as getting stuck for a moment). In either case they said to drive it, watch it and bring it in if the oil light came on consistently.

I haven't noticed any sensitivity in the oil light as I have been watching it carefully prior to this. I think it is safe.

Again, thanks for the feedback.

 
What Geezer said. The light is for oil level only, not pressure.

I think, around, less than 3 qts is when it normally/should come on.

Obviously you have plenty if it is near the top of the sight glass on the center stand.

Yours seems set too high, or the sensor is mucked up electrically.

 
On page 2-39 of the '06 service manual you can see a side view of the oil level float switch. You can see its height and its position relative to the oil site glass. It appears that the float mechanism moves up and down on a vertical rod as the oil level changes. When the float has attained a setpoint elevation an electrical switch closes in the float mechanism. This turns off the oil light.

You can also see on page 2-41 the bottom view of the oil pan. The float switch is located just to the rear of the oil drain bolt. The switch is on the left side of the oil pan.

If the oil light is illuminated you might be able to perform a simple test by tilting the bike to the left. This will raise the oil level on the left side where the switch is located. Tilting the bike to the left may cause the light to go off.

 
On page 2-39 of the '06 service manual you can see a side view of the oil level float switch. You can see its height and its position relative to the oil site glass. It appears that the float mechanism moves up and down on a vertical rod as the oil level changes. When the float has attained a setpoint elevation an electrical switch closes in the float mechanism. This turns off the oil light.
You can also see on page 2-41 the bottom view of the oil pan. The float switch is located just to the rear of the oil drain bolt. The switch is on the left side of the oil pan.

If the oil light is illuminated you might be able to perform a simple test by tilting the bike to the left. This will raise the oil level on the left side where the switch is located. Tilting the bike to the left may cause the light to go off.

Thank you. I haven't seen the light again after 50 miles. But I may experiment with a VERY good buddy helping me tip the bike.

I HAVE GOT to get a service manual ASAp

 
Instead of going out and buying tools, try using the tool kit that came with your bike :D

I think that's why they gave you one :blink:

Cheers,

Bryce

 
lots of good advice here.

I've never torqued one in my life - just snug that puppy down and check it for leaks after your first ride.
+100 !!! :D

Your not building a motor boys, it's a simple bolt, throw the f'n torque wrench away. ( must be a bunch of engineers on this site overcomplicating things ! :) )

 
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