Speed Bleeders

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MCML

Not All Who Wander Are Lost
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According to UPS, my brake parts shipped today from University. Pads, rotors, lines and bleeders. When did I order these? I cannot remember! Does anyone recall which speedbleeder goes where (by part number)? If I recall, there are three different bleeders for 4 locations (front port, front starboard, rear and clutch). Thanks.

 
Speed Bleeders Rock! By far the best brake bleeding invention ever, even better than the Mytivac! I hate brake jobs and this made the project so easy. Getcha Some! :lol:

 
Eeiiaannhh!

That's the sound of me being unimpressed. If I was to do it over again I would not have ordered the speed bleeders. Nothing on the bike is so far away as to not be able to do bleeding the old fashioned way. The speeders just complicate the process, especially when the lines are full of air.

On a car they might be of benefit, but then again I have no problem doing it the 'old' way, like I always have. FWIW.

BTW, WTF does YMMV mean. I have seen it used and it's driving me crazy(er).

Len

 
BTW, WTF does YMMV mean. I have seen it used and it's driving me crazy(er).
Len
YMMV = your mileage may vary (i.e. this may not work out the same way for you as it did for me)

 
Thanks rickysnickers for the info on the ABS.

Another question:

If I want to install the SpeedBleeders I have to bleed the whole system first to get the fluid out and then swap the original bleeders out for the new ones, right? So now the brake or clutch system is "dry".

It says that for the speedbleeders to work there has to be pressure in the brake or clutch system. How do you establish the pressure in a dry system? Do you just start pouring in fresh brake fluid into the reservoir on top of the handlebar?

I have done a brake fluid swap on an old Ninja bike but used the normal method to bleed and refill the brake system.

I like the idea of the speedbleeders and would like to try it since it can save some time.

Thanks

 
Fill the reservoir and use a mityvac to get flow started, keep pulling until you can get a gravity flow going. The speed bleeders need fluid, not air, in the system to work. The master just doesn't move enough air (a compressable fluid) to get things moving.

 
Not to fear Joe, everything is labeled very nicely. Plus you'll get a real nice Yammi beer can cuzzy!
Well, everything arrived yesteray at 19:58h, and at the corner of Ventura Boulevard and Alhama Drive, after my having to flag down a UPS truck that was not, I repeat not, headed towards my office. The beer cozy and foot were in the box. The speed bleeders, however, are not labled in any way and of the four only two are identical. Gary says that when the threads are matched up with the bleeding screws that are pulled out then everything will become clear. As I will not be doing the brake job myself, I had hoped to lable the bleeders for the mechanic so as to reduce tha possibility of any error. Oh, well.
 
Thanks RickL, for the info on YMMV.

I was thinking that maybe it was, 'You Make Me Vomit' :lol:

Then I had a fit of un-laziness and googled for e-mail abbreviations and found it.

Len

 
MCML on the speedbleeder website it shows front as part SB8125L which would be two of the same then the rear and clutch are both SB7100 so the rear and clutch would be the same so you should only have 2 kinds correct?

 
Sparky, I actually found my old notes (burried on my desk) and they show that the front left and clutch are 8mm x 1.2, 1.28. The front right is 8mm x 1.25, 150. The rear is 7mm x 1.0, 138. So, if those notes are right, then there are three different bleeders for the four locations with the front port side and clutch being the two that are the same and, I am guessing, the smaller of the two others going to the rear. I am going to take the notes downstairs and see if the thread sizes and lengths match my notes.

 
You know, this weekend was the first time I ever used the "hose in a bottle" method for bleeding brakes. I was taught (incorrectly it seems) that you pumped up the system and held it with pressure while someone else opened the bleeder and then closed it once you had the pedal to the floor. Repeat process until air is gone.

Man what freakin' job that is compared to:

put hose attached to bleeder in disposable container of fluid and pump smoothly until air is gone. Close bleede and top of resivior. You're done.

What pisses me off is I've had MANY opportunities to try that method and just out of mere habbit did it the old wrong way.

 
Mine are still in the package, wait til I have some down time, like winter here in southern Ca can we say rain :( .

rogerfjrfaster :D

 
MCML,

I just ordered 2x SB8125L for the front and 2x SB7100 for the rear and the clutch. I got a 2004 FJR w/ABS. There should be no third number for that model year. At least not that I know.

 
I have a 2004 FJR w/ABS. Used (2) SB 8125L for left front & clutch slave (1) SB7100 for rear, (1) SB8125LL right front

 
Pending,

your numbers don't reflect what is stated on the Speedbleeder website. Who did you talk to to get the ones you got?

Also, why would the right front rotor be a different bleeder than the left front rotor?

Who else has already installed Speedbleeders on their ABS equipped FJR and can tell everybody what part numbers are the correct ones?

 
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