Starting in Winter

[YAM TOM]

Some say its a bad idea to start your bike during the winter months as condensation will get into the oil. Here is what I was told. Temp. changes during the winter warm, cold, warm, again actually create comdensation that enters engine through exhaust past valves and into combustion chamber. After time this can start to rust the cyl walls so its a good idea to start the motor to cover everything with oil again. As long as you bring the engine up to operating temp and let it run for a while theres no harm done. Mecanic at local dealer also said it doesnt hurt to stuff a rag in the end of the tail pipe. Not sure about all this whats your thoughts????

 

[gumba]

I ride the all winter here in the SW. My biggest concern is getting a warm enough day to change my oil. I have gone out on a 50F day for 50 highway miles only to find my oil lukewarm when I dump it. I don't garage warm-up and I don't short-hop. Nothing good can come from it. The water temp. on a FJ will come up real fast, but that doesn't mean the engine is up to temp..

 

[mcatrophy]

Some say its a bad idea to start your bike during the winter months as condensation will get into the oil. Here is what I was told. Temp. changes during the winter warm, cold, warm, again actually create comdensation that enters engine through exhaust past valves and into combustion chamber. After time this can start to rust the cyl walls so its a good idea to start the motor to cover everything with oil again. As long as you bring the engine up to operating temp and let it run for a while theres no harm done. Mecanic at local dealer also said it doesnt hurt to stuff a rag in the end of the tail pipe. Not sure about all this whats your thoughts????

With modern oils I see no harm. My suggestion: start the engine, let it run until the fans have cycled a couple of times AND any sign of water vapour from the exhausts has stopped. (You will have the bike outside or garage door open so you don't commit suicide

)

Except for the FJRF011: Fast Starter Syndrome thread and the possibity of rings seizing in the pistons, I can't recall anyone complaining about rusted bores, knackered bearings or anythig else that might be caused by condensation in the oil.

Condensation in the tank is a different matter, but I can't see that being affected significantly by running the engine, but it will keep the injectors flushed.

I've never needed to keep mine off the road for longer than about 5 weeks, that was this winter in a particularly lengthy freezing spell (for England). I did start mine a couple of times during that period because I don't have a battery charger of any sort (never needed one), and, as I suggested above, left it running for two fan cycles. Long enough for everything to get hot and to reasonably replenish any battery discharge.

The real advantage is you can sit on it, twist the throttle, and you can hear the vroom vroom noises without making them yourself

.

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Some say its a bad idea to start your bike during the winter months as condensation will get into the oil.

Yam,

This is partially true... that is why you bring up your bike temps (more than just starting a minute and turning off) during these times to be warm enough to burn off any excess moisture... then turn it off and you'll be fine.

 

[frito1]

Some say its a bad idea to start your bike during the winter months as condensation will get into the oil.

Yam,

This is partially true... that is why you bring up your bike temps (more than just starting a minute and turning off) during these times to be warm enough to burn off any excess moisture... then turn it off and you'll be fine.

Problem with a garage warm up is that bikes with shared wet sump systems would have to be run a very long time to get everything up to temperature. To get the engine truly to operating temp you have to take the primary drive, clutch, and tranny with you on that journey. If you're not going to take it for a warm up ride why bother? Put on a tender and let it sit till spring. It'll be just fine. Farm tractors, construction equipment, mowers, and countless other seasonal equipment’s internal combustion engines do just fine sitting all winter, (no loss of longevity) there's nothing special about an FJR's engine that is gonna cause it to self destruct if it sits a while. If you're really worried about your cylinder walls going dry, fog the engine before parking it and putting it on the tender. But…that could open another can of worms when you go to start it in the spring. If you’re really worried about temperature swings and condensation, there is always heated storage. You can buy bubble type covers, add a light bulb, and make it just like a pump house. Pretty much a constant temp so no chance for condensation. I’ve read of folks using a regular cover and an incandescent light bulb to that end. Rags in the tail pipe prevent pipe mice. Seriously the whole issue is much t’doo about nothing.

JMHO YMMV

 

[C&C]

Well water vapor is one of the things to be considered, but cold short starts also introduces raw fuel to the oil 'mix' as well. In the scheme of things, who knows what damage or non-damage occurs, but for my money it is smart to start your engine and run it until the oil reaches normal operating temperature (which in all likelihood will require actually riding the bike for an extended time (guessing here: minimum 15 minutes under a fair load; I'd feel better at a half hour). I believe short cold starts were attributed to some of the oil gelling problems encountered with some of the auto (in the news recently).

 

[RaYzerman19]

You need to ask yourself what you wish to accomplish by starting it. If you're concerned about oil on the cylinder walls, you could remove the plugs and spin the engine over, which will circulate the oil without incurring a hot/cold cycle. If you start it, and your weather is like mine, remember it has to cool off, and in our environment, the cold will cause condensation. The key as mentioned is to have as stable an environment in storage as possible, full tank, properly stabilized fuel, center stand, battery on a tender. Modern oils have additives that keep them from completely running off metal parts, so I wouldn't be too concerned.

IMHO, there is nothing to be gained by starting it, only potentially harmful things.

 

[huron52]

You need to ask yourself what you wish to accomplish by starting it. If you're concerned about oil on the cylinder walls, you could remove the plugs and spin the engine over, which will circulate the oil without incurring a hot/cold cycle. If you start it, and your weather is like mine, remember it has to cool off, and in our environment, the cold will cause condensation. The key as mentioned is to have as stable an environment in storage as possible, full tank, properly stabilized fuel, center stand, battery on a tender. Modern oils have additives that keep them from completely running off metal parts, so I wouldn't be too concerned.

IMHO, there is nothing to be gained by starting it, only potentially harmful things.

+1 gotta agree with Ray....

 

[wfooshee]

I'm in the "If you ain't ridin' it, don't crank it" camp.

But then, I don't store motorcycles . . . . .

 

[gearman]

I'm in the "If you ain't ridin' it, don't crank it" camp.

But then, I don't store motorcycles . . . . .

Same here. I've experienced the condensation problem (oil looks milky in site window) from repeated garage warm ups. It's ok to do it once but the next time you start it you need to ride it long enough to completely boil the moisture out of the oil. Water suspended in the oil can cause inernal engine parts to corrode.