Stator Interest?

[twowheelnut]

The 22% increase would be BUTTER!!

Friggin' kids ... Get it right! It's, 'Buttah'. Obviously, you've never been to Maine, whayah the tahm ahiginated. Ayahuh, wicked gooahd!

Tapping toes and waiting on more info... been wantin' ta pump up da volume witta Kenwood KAC-9102D, mofo 500 watt amp, pushing dub Alpine Type-R 12" dual 4-ohm component subwoofers glassed inna boot. Yo, Schoolly D's been soundin' a bit weak comin' up tru da earbuds. :rap: B) Yo.

 

[slapnpop]

I've been thinking of buying a set of of trashed bags/trunk, and installing a component set in each back, and a 10" sub in the trunk, so when I cruise into parkinglots on those warm summer nights we can bump on the bikes!!!

just kidding.

 

[Constant Mesh]

I'd assume the ST1100 systems consumed considerably less power. No electronic fuel injection, minimal computer control, lower wattage lighting, etc. Did the later model years have a 40 amp charging system?

 

[Warchild]

Though less, I wouldn't necessarily characterize power consumption as "considerably" less. Having been originally design in the very late 80's, and first hit the market in 1990, it wasn't fuel injected, but that's about the only real difference in power consumption. It still had ECU's and the like, electric fuel pump, twin headlights, had electronic Traction Control Systems, ABS, etc. And we'd still run the 55/60-watt H4's (replacing those odd Stanley psuedo-H4s that Honda uses even today, in their ST1300). And yes, it was a 40-amp system.

Some of the Iron Butt guys would run those mega 110-watt H3 bulbs in their PIAA lamps all night long, and that's a massive 220-watt power draw right there. :blink: That, on top of all their other high-draw gear (heated clothing, heated hand grips, heated seats, etc).

 

[exskibum]

We should probably know what the limits on the regulator are.

I discussed this very subject with ElectroSport during our telephone conversation today.

There is indeed a limit to what the FJR overall electrical system (wire harness, R/R, and other electrical components) can handle without putting undo stress on them, and that figure is approximately 520-ish watts (+/-). The first iteration of the stator that ElectroSport made put out a bit more than this amount, and they had to step it down a little in a subsequent design. To run at higher rates would eventually put the electrical system in jeapordy... obviously, not a good thing.

I am definitely looking forward to installing this puppy... toward that end, I dashed out to Sunnyside late this afternoon to score an item that might soon be in short supply, should this ElectroSport stator pass all my testing:

I'm thinking SOMEONE has a woody over this. :lol:

With all the Regulator/Rectifier discussion on the Honda XX (under designed and needing replacement too early -- often with a Yamaha R1 R/R), I had no doubt the aroused dictator would have covered this issue first up.

 

[FJRocha]

Yup... This be a good one, I'm in if results are good...

WC, I'm curious, how do you plan to test it?

 

[MrVvrroomm]

WC, I'm curious, how do you plan to test it?

 

[radman]

 

[Toecutter]

Yup... This be a good one, I'm in if results are good...
WC, I'm curious, how do you plan to test it?

I'm thinkin' head down the road, start switching on draw sources with known current values, wait 'til the ol' Datel registers a drop, add up the draw and see how much more draw the new setup can handle over stock, which he probably knows only too well by now. Sorry for speaking out of turn, just hoping to save him some explanation time in favor of wrenching time.

 

[Ignacio]

WC, I'm curious, how do you plan to test it?

I'm sure he has a more elaborate plan, but a pretty obvious scenario to me:

With OEM stator warm bike up and then hold the throttle at a particular RPM, say 4,300 since that's a typical RPM amount when night riding in forest rat infested mountains that happen to be very dark and cold even during the summer.

Observe the Datel voltage reading with low beams only on. 14.2 or 14.3.

Turn on high beams and watch the voltage dip for a second, but stabilize on 14.2.

Turn on HID flame throwers and watch voltage drop again, but stabilize on 13.6

Turn on electric clothing and watch voltage. (Haven't tested yet, but expect it drops below 13.0)

Now, repeat the tests after switching stators. The interesting part starts with the addition of Widders. An ideal result would to have all the electrics (vest, leg and arm chaps, and gloves) on full-blast and still see mid 13 volt reading or something.

 

[Warchild]

... add up the draw and see how much more draw the new setup can handle over stock, which he probably knows only too well by now.

This description is not far off the mark.

And sadly enough, yes, I now *exactly* how the Datel behaves with several different combinations of heavy draw over time.

Mind you, there are actually two sets of testing to be done (Phase I and Phase II), and the time-line for performing Phase II won't make everyone happy, but we gotta face reality....

It really isn't enough to go about all my various Phase I testing, determine that the stator does indeed put out the watts as advertised, and therefore call it all good.

The other Phase II "test" is the long-term test... how does the overall electrical system *actually* handle the increased wattage over the long haul?

Will the stator come unmade or otherwise self-destruct over time?

Will it burn to a crisp like the first re-wound stator we experimented with last year at Sunnyside?

These questions won't be answered overnight. The first re-wound stator we experimented with at Sunnyside took almost 5-6 months to burn up. Y'all have seen the pictures of that. It forced me to re-install the OEM stator last November, as seen below:

So.... the general plan is to do Phase I testing, and report. Reports from Phase I will basically say: does the new stator appear to generate output as advertise, or does it not?

Based upon Phase I report (assuming a positive result), we can, if desired, move ahead with the Group Buy. However, GB players will have to assume the risk that we don't know (and won't know for a while) the results of Phase II testing.

The latter will only come with time. Perhaps by the end of the Endurance Rally season this year (Sept-Oct), we might have some discernable results. Maybe.

 

[f1fan]

Wow, this may be one of the best news for the FJR community in a long time. If it works I am in for sure. Can't wait for WC to start putting it through the paces. :dribble:

 

[exskibum]

Well, to state my preference, I'd like to see a GB at the end of phase II testing for two reasons.

First, I'm more concerned with what the increased wattage may or may not do to the R/R and rest of the electrical system in long distance riding circumstances than I am about anything else. Keep in mind that even with the security of WC's positive report after second phase testing, the Yamaha warranty is probably not going to offer any assistance with electrically related problems after a stator upgrade. But if it survives the LD riding season with WC's thumbs up, then I'm in for sure.

Second reason is that I'm just about spent with all the farkles I've been buying for installation on bikes this year -- both in terms of $$ and finding the time to get the work done. Next winter would just be better for me.

 

[Toecutter]

Well, to state my preference, I'd like to see a GB at the end of phase II testing for two reasons. 
First, I'm more concerned with what the increased wattage may or may not do to the R/R and rest of the electrical system in long distance riding circumstances than I am about anything else.  Keep in mind that even with the security of WC's positive report after second phase testing, the Yamaha warranty is probably not going to offer any assistance with electrically related problems after a stator upgrade.  But if it survives the LD riding season with WC's thumbs up, then I'm in for sure.

Second reason is that I'm just about spent with all the farkles I've been buying for installation on bikes this year -- both in terms of $$ and finding the time to get the work done.  Next winter would just be better for me.

mostly for the first reason, mostly.

 

[JohnBryer]

Well, to state my preference, I'd like to see a GB at the end of phase II testing for two reasons.

+1

I'd much rather see it road tested, especially over the summer and do a group buy as the colder weather hits and we actually need it.

 

[dcarver]

Not me. Phase 1 = good = buy. Keep the stock in the saddlebag if needed / worried enough. Go for it!

I put a DUAL alternator / regulator on a kz1300 with no ill effects. It's just electrons after all.. of course I overhaul nuke plants for a second job..

clicky

 

[BrunDog]

WC,

Any chance you could install an ammeter in series with your power strips for the test? I think it would be great if you could measure Voltage output and current draw for different loads at different engine speeds. In other words, plot engine speed, voltage, and current. You would adjust the current draw by turning on and off different combinations of loads (lights, etc.)

Ideally you would do this in stock configuration first, then switch the stator and run the same tests. This would provide you all the data needed to calculate actual wattage supplied across the speed range.

Oh, I forgot. Please, your benevolentness. k:

-BD

 

[twowheelnut]

Jesus, Brun! Here, just miniaturize this, strap it in your fairing pocket and you're good to go. Plenty of juice. I wouldn't worry much about the fuels half-life - just get one of those dentist's chest and lap shields as you're still young.

 

[toophast]

If this works, I'm in. Too much of a PIA switching on and off stuff to keep the Datel from dipping too far

 

[Toecutter]

WC,
Any chance you could install an ammeter in series with your power strips for the test? I think it would be great if you could measure Voltage output and current draw for different loads at different engine speeds. In other words, plot engine speed, voltage, and current. You would adjust the current draw by turning on and off different combinations of loads (lights, etc.)

Yeah, and while you're out there, could you maybe hit a deer at say, 2735 RPM in fourth gear with the new stator installed? I'd like to see some impact resistance testing results on the stator as well before I commit. Thanks a bunch, yer aces kid. Oh, and don't get hurt.