STS Turn Signal Harness for Gen 3 FJR1300

[TooManyBikes]

The installation of a STS turn signal canceling module for a Gen 2 has been well posted here and on other FJR forums. E.g. Gen 2 STS Link Source Does anyone know the connector specifications or Amazon part numbers to build an inline harness for Gen 3?

 

[Low Level FJR Pilot]

Ditto! Really need to do this on my bike.

 

[TooManyBikes]

Ditto! Really need to do this on my bike.

FYI, I also asked st2-systems.com/.
Will post any helpful response from them.

 

[RiderJoe]

I don't have access to a Gen 3 FJR, or a wiring diagram for it. However, this video on YouTube from TwoWheelObsession gives indication that the wiring loom for the turn signal changed significantly from the Gen 2 models. If the connector type can be identified, and is available somewhere (EasternBeaver? - it looks very much like this Sumitomo TS025 - 10 position one from the video, but I am not sure), then a similar harness can be made for Gen 3 too. The difference seems to be that the connector on the Gen 3 is only a 10-pin connector, which is very different from the 13-pin connector on the Gen 2, and is accessible at a different location on the bike. Bryan in the video mentions that there isn't space to mount the STS properly where the connector is, but the leads are long on the STS harness to mount it at a nearby place, and even if it isn't, the wiring from the plug-in harness can be made long enough to be able to mount the STS at a suitable place.
Good luck!

 

[Old Guy]

The signal light connector for the '13 is under the black nose cover, and I found room under there (barely) to mount the STS. It was challenging I was able to do the install using the pieces and instructions that came with the STS, but a custom-made harness would have been nice, for sure.

I've attached a wiring diagram done by John Casteel. I've also got a PDF version of the service manual, but it weighs in at about 20 Mb. I could email if you want to drop me a PM with an email addy.

 

[TooManyBikes]

I've attached a wiring diagram done by John Casteel. I've also got a PDF version of the service manual, but it weighs in at about 20 Mb. I could email if you want to drop me a PM with an email addy.

Thanks for this information and your kind offer to forward the service manual. Will follow up with a PM if I decide to do the STS install.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

[Fishin VA]

Looking at my Gen3 2021 manual, they went back to a 13 pin connector for 2016-2021. Bike is in the shop or I'd find the exact location and connector as well.

 

[Fishin VA]

Here you go, the details on what I bought to make a 2016+ ES harness.

From Corsa Technic:
TS025-13P (https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1619&category_id=211)
TS025-13S (https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1620&category_id=211)

I also bought 10 extra Female and Male pins. (https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=211)

From Amazon:
Crimping tool (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WNZ9FW)
22ga Wire (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWR8714)

I ended up with the first pic after assembly. I made the wires about 8" long, you use 11 of the 13 connectors, and I made 14 wires. 8 are M-F, 3 are male only and 3 are female only. The pdf shows what wires connect to what, I created a number scheme at random, don't know if that's how the connectors are numbered or not. The wires were a pain in the a$$ to install in the connectors, I had to use a micro blade scredriver to fully seat them in the connector.

Second pic shows the wiring harness connected on both ends under the front cowl. I'm still finalizing installation, I'll be making a mounting plate to attach the actual ST2 to the frame using the bolt that was holding the clutch line that was removed installing my Helibars. Wiring is fed between the forks to under the cowl. I ran power to under the cowl from my FZ-1 distribution block to both the ST2 and my new Clearwater Darla's all under the front cowl. More pics after I create the plate and show final mounting.

 

[richardsutton]

I'm also in the process of building a plug and play connector for the STS/ST2 system to be installed in a Gen3 FJR1300 (possibly Gen4 is the correct term - the one with a 6 speed box and LED lighting) which I believe is 2016 onwards. My bike is an early 2017.

The location of the required connector, as shown by FishinVA, is under the black upper nose cover. This is my bike showing the black connector already separated.

The necessary 13-pin Sumitomo connector I have bought is in grey. The photo is taken before the pins have been inserted but you can see the pin layout.

The details of the Sumitomo 13-pin connector male/female parts are 6189-1092 (13-AC001) and 6188-4914 (13-AC003). The required male/female pins are 8100-3455 (T-025) and 8100-3617 (T-026). My seals are 7165-1312 (S-036) but different sizes of seal are available depending which size cable you purchase.

The Yamaha wiring is 1.7mm diameter and I have purchased AWG22 cable for the plug and play connector which appears to be the closest to original.

Looking at the right-hand side of the connector in the photo, which is the handlebar switch side of the connector rather than the bike side, the pins which are used from the left are the first 1 & 2 pins, then the next pin 3 is not used by Yamaha, then there is the blanked pin then the final pins 4,5 and 6 are used. The first 3 pins on the bottom row, 7,8 and 9, are used. The middle pin, 10, is not used by Yamaha and then the final 3 pins, 11, 12 and 13 are all used.

The pin signals are as follows:

Pin 1 - Orange / White - Cruise Control
Pin 2 - Yellow / Black - Cruise Control
Pin 3 - Not Used
Pin 4 - White / Black - Indicator Left
Pin 5 - White / Yellow - Indicator Right
Pin 6 - Yellow - Headlight Pass
Pin 7 - White /Blue - Menu System
Pin 8 - Green / Blue - Cruise Control
Pin 9 - Black / White - Menu System
Pin 10 - Not Used
Pin 11 - Brown / Blue - Cruise Control
Pin 12 - Blue / Red - Indicator Trigger
Pin 13 - Yellow / White - Headlight

The cable colours are consistent across both sides of the connector apart from the Indicator Trigger on Pin 12 which is Blue / Red on the handlebar side and Brown on the bike side.

I have mounted the ST2 unit at the side of the battery under the righthand side cover-plate and fed the cable through the gap below the headlight adjuster. The cable comes out into the wiring space just below the lowest white connector and is ideally placed for connecting into the plug and play harness.

My plan is to try and use the Indicator Trigger cable for both the signal feed to the ST2 and for the the switched 12V +ve power feed to the ST2 as it seems to carry a steady 12V +ve.

I'll update further as I progress.

 

[Bobnos]

Let me know if you decide to produce them. Thanks

 

[richardsutton]

An update with more photos.
Firstly, I would echo FishinVA's comments. I have pinned and de-pinned many auto connectors over the last 50 years but I have never done a connector as difficult as this Sumitomo one. The pins are very small and are a very close fit in the housing. I do not have the correct crimping tool for these pins so I soldered the wires into and pin and then crimped it with needle-nosed pliers. The clearances are so tight that if you have a tiny bit too much solder you will not be able to insert the pin. You basically need just the thinnest wipe of solder on the pin, just enough to grip the conductor, but so little that you can still bend the crimp tabs over.
I have succeeded in the end but my advice would be to buy the correct crimper which folds the two metal flaps inwards and try to avoid soldering unless you have a very light touch and a very hot fine point soldering iron.
I also purchased the purple seals but these are too small for 1.7mm diameter cable. I did manage to get them on but it is not very neat so buy a larger size.
I definitely will not be making any more as the number of hours I've spent on this would never be cost effective.
I have wired all the pass-through connectors in black and then used the STS/ST2 colours (blue, yellow and green) for the indicator connectors as these are the colours which are used for the bike side of the ST2. I've also used the same colours for the handlebar side as I didn't have any more colours apart from red which I will use for the 12V +ve if I need to.
I've attached photos showing the ST2 placement and where the ST2 cables enter into the nose cone.
Tomorrow will finally be installation and testing!

 

[RiderJoe]

@richardsutton I am sure that you will really like the STS module on your bike. You did a nice job! It looks like a lot of research and time went into your project.

About the pin connections: yes, doing them manually is a PITA, but even an inexpensive crimper would have made the job much easier to do. I made a few adapters for Gen II's and I would not have done that if I had to manually solder and crimp every pin (26 total for one adapter). With a right-sized crimper though, it took less than five seconds to secure a pin to the stripped wire end in two places, and the results are solid - no soldering needed, and no issues inserting them into the terminals.

Enjoy your ride, and not having to be reminded by others to turn off your signal 5 minutes after a turn on a straight country road or on a freeway lane ;-).

 

[richardsutton]

@richardsutton I am sure that you will really like the STS module on your bike. You did a nice job! It looks like a lot of research and time went into your project.

About the pin connections: yes, doing them manually is a PITA, but even an inexpensive crimper would have made the job much easier to do. I made a few adapters for Gen II's and I would not have done that if I had to manually solder and crimp every pin (26 total for one adapter). With a right-sized crimper though, it took less than five seconds to secure a pin to the stripped wire end in two places, and the results are solid - no soldering needed, and no issues inserting them into the terminals.

Enjoy your ride, and not having to be reminded by others to turn off your signal 5 minutes after a turn on a straight country road or on a freeway lane ;-).

View attachment 5819

That looks very neat.
Just so people know what they are dealing with I've attached a photo of the Gen2 pin above alongside the Gen3 pin.

 

[richardsutton]

OK, the ST2 is installed and it works fine. I've not modified the indicator switch yet but the electronics are all working perfectly.
The good news is that the common indicator wire Pin 12 which is Brown on the bike side (Blue/Red on handlebar side) of the connector is a stable switched live as I suspected so as you're already tapping into that wire you can simply use it for the +ve to the ST2. No extra wiring is required other than a ground wire for the ST2 but that can be attached to any convenient earthed bolt.

 

[richardsutton]

I've now been for a first test ride with the ST2 and am impressed. If it fails to turn off the indicator because it did not detect a very slight turn (like a lane change) then it will turn it off 20 seconds later anyway so you cannot ride along with the indicator on. However, if you are standing still, say at traffic lights, the 20 second rule does not apply and the indicator keeps flashing indefinitely.
I've attached a photo of the complete installation prior to putting the fairing and screen back on. There is plenty of room for all the wiring and connectors at the lower end of the wiring space.

 

[papabird]

@richardsutton , thank you for the great information. I was wondering what connectors you used to connect to the STS unit.

Thanks
Roger

 

[Gadgets]

An update with more photos.
Firstly, I would echo FishinVA's comments. I have pinned and de-pinned many auto connectors over the last 50 years but I have never done a connector as difficult as this Sumitomo one. The pins are very small and are a very close fit in the housing. I do not have the correct crimping tool for these pins so I soldered the wires into and pin and then crimped it with needle-nosed pliers. The clearances are so tight that if you have a tiny bit too much solder you will not be able to insert the pin. You basically need just the thinnest wipe of solder on the pin, just enough to grip the conductor, but so little that you can still bend the crimp tabs over.
I have succeeded in the end but my advice would be to buy the correct crimper which folds the two metal flaps inwards and try to avoid soldering unless you have a very light touch and a very hot fine point soldering iron.
I also purchased the purple seals but these are too small for 1.7mm diameter cable. I did manage to get them on but it is not very neat so buy a larger size.
I definitely will not be making any more as the number of hours I've spent on this would never be cost effective.
I have wired all the pass-through connectors in black and then used the STS/ST2 colours (blue, yellow and green) for the indicator connectors as these are the colours which are used for the bike side of the ST2. I've also used the same colours for the handlebar side as I didn't have any more colours apart from red which I will use for the 12V +ve if I need to.
I've attached photos showing the ST2 placement and where the ST2 cables enter into the nose cone.
Tomorrow will finally be installation and testing!

Hi Richard,

Can I ask where you got your connectors from.

Kindest regards

Bill

 

[richardsutton]

This is now my third attempt at typing this. What an atrocious website design!

Auto-Click https://www.auto-click.co.uk/

SUMITOMO 6189-1092 Housing	13-AC001	1	£4.15	£4.15
8100-3455	T-025	20	£0.22	£4.40
8100-3617	T-026	100	£0.22	£22.00
SUMITOMO 6188-4914 Housing	13-AC003	1	£4.93	£4.93
7165-1312	S-036	50	£0.12	£6.00

You need a larger size of weather seal.

Richard

 

[Rogue]

As an alternate Clearwater makes a harness with a highbeam relay, you could cut out the relay and use the harness. It's only $15. B729 harness

 

[richardsutton]

As an alternate Clearwater makes a harness with a highbeam relay, you could cut out the relay and use the harness. It's only $15. B729 harness

Those do not appear to be the same connectors as my Gen 3 Facelift (LED Lights and 6 speed gearbox) version but might well fit the original Gen 3 model.

I have replied to Bill's post but my reply is apparently being moderated.

Richard