Stubborn 2005 front axle removal

[macinstien]

I need to take the front wheel off of my 2005 non-ABS to get the forks off for an in shop seal replacement. Brakes are off, pinch bolt is loose but the axle nut is not budging...at all!

I am applying a lot of gorilla force on that 19mm driver but the thing feels like it is welded in. I know it is torqued down pretty good but should it be that hard to break it loose and slide the axle out?

I am following the general instruction from my manual and what I found at fjr1300 info

Before I break something I figured I better take a breather and ask fer some advice!

Thanks!

Mac

 

[JimLor]

This won't help much but my 05 didn't give me any problems. And I always use a torque wrench when I stick it back in. Have you tried liquid wrench on the like? Let it soak and get a longer lever! Good luck. Maybe someone thought locktight would be a good idea.

 

[macinstien]

This won't help much but my 05 didn't give me any problems. And I always use a torque wrench when I stick it back in. Have you tried liquid wrench on the like? Let it soak and get a longer lever! Good luck. Maybe someone thought locktight would be a good idea.

Yep, the locktite crossed my mind. I'll try the liquid wrench and give it another go tomorrow. Thanks for the reply!

 

[Donal]

Agree with everything already said. In addition to the Gorilla force I would get someone else to tap the axle. Ideally sharp (but light) taps to help break the freeze. The more vibration you can get into it, the easier it should start to move.

Don

 

[SnowmobileGuy]

You might try an impact wrench.

But, before you wrench on it again try some AeroKroil penetrant. It works better than other forms a pentrant. It is hard to find in stores, but you can find it on line.

 

[FJRBluesman]

You might try an impact wrench.
But, before you wrench on it again try some AeroKroil penetrant. It works better than other forms a pentrant. It is hard to find in stores, but you can find it on line.

Gunny.
Might try applying a little bit of heat, not alot, to the bottom area of the fork that has the threads of the axle in it.

You are turning it counter clockwise too. Just askin'. :blink:

 

[macinstien]

You might try an impact wrench.
But, before you wrench on it again try some AeroKroil penetrant. It works better than other forms a pentrant. It is hard to find in stores, but you can find it on line.

Gunny.
Might try applying a little bit of heat, not alot, to the bottom area of the fork that has the threads of the axle in it.

You are turning it counter clockwise too. Just askin'. :blink:

I'll try to find the AreoKoil online, then hit it with the torch. I'm using a pretty stout breakover bar, so I think I'm good on that one. Roger that on the counter clockwise. Thanks for all this advice, everyone.

Mac

 

[Pepperell]

I've found that steady pressure over time can sometimes work better than short, sharp impacts. Try leaning down on the breaker bar for a minute or two.

Explanation that I probably miss-recall; the two pieces can bond at the molecular level. The steady pressure allows the bonds time to release. Well, that's my story and I'm sticking with it!

 

[ionbeam]

It isn't mentioned what kind of wrench is being used. If you are using a standard suckit socket wrench or a box/open end wrench you may not have all the leverage you need. Slip a length of pipe over the wrench handle making a DYI breaker bar and give it a try. Or, take a 1/2" torque wrench, set for >150 lb/ft and use the extra length of the torque wrench like a breaker bar. One final oddity which often works -- try to TIGHTEN the axle, apply pressure until it just moves and then try to remove the axle in the normal unscrew direction. This almost always works. If it seems to take unreasonable effort to get the axle to move in the tightening direction don't force it and try one of the other methods.

 

[huron52]

Sorry I would like to add a comment but my tires are changed often enough that neither axle stays on very long. :lol:

 

[Geezer]

Sorry I would like to add a comment but my tires are changed often enough that neither axle stays on very long. :lol:

That's what I was thinking. hat axle should not be on there long enough for a molecular bond or corrosion or anything like that. I'm thinking that someone put loc-tite on there, in which case a little heat on the bottom of the fork as mentioned above should do the trick.

One other thing is nagging at me about this: The original post says 'axle nut', but there is no nut. It's probably just the wrong word being used, but the axle is actually a long rod threaded at one end and the wrench fits into the opposite end, like a giant cap screw.

 

[FJRBluesman]

One other thing is nagging at me about this: The original post says 'axle nut', but there is no nut. It's probably just the wrong word being used, but the axle is actually a long rod threaded at one end and the wrench fits into the opposite end, like a giant cap screw.

Gunny Geezer, I thought the same thing when I first read it.

 

[ionbeam]

...One other thing is nagging at me about this: The original post says 'axle nut', but there is no nut. It's probably just the wrong word being used...

What the OP also said was:

I am applying a lot of gorilla force on that 19mm driver

Which is the correct size for the Gen I front axle Allen wrench. The Gen II does have a front axle bolt but I don't know if it is 19mm.

I asked what kind of tool was being used 'cause if the OP is using the 19mm 'driver' that is in the stock OEM tool kit, it may well be over-matched by the axle torque. It's probably just me, but when I tried to use the OEM tool kit 19mm Allen wrench/spark plug tool, the tool twisted up and came apart. If I had been beside the road there wouldn't have been a hope in hell of me getting the axle bolt out. Using a proper wrench I've never had any trouble removing the axle.

We need to hear from the OP to clarify what's going on.

 

[Zorlac]

"I tried to use the OEM tool kit 19mm Allen wrench/spark plug tool, the tool twisted up and came apart. "

3/4" hex bar stock fits perfectly.

A machinist at work lopped me a short piece of brass that stood up to the PO's mega axle torque that was too much for my horror fright electric impact wrench, don't know what he was thinking but a piece of pipe on the 1/2" ratchet handle did the trick.

 

[wfooshee]

If it's actually overtightened that severely should he be concerned about wheel bearings?

 

[lnewlf]

why is it so hard to read Zorlac's posts?

 

[Geezer]

"I tried to use the OEM tool kit 19mm Allen wrench/spark plug tool, the tool twisted up and came apart. "
3/4" hex bar stock fits perfectly.

A machinist at work lopped me a short piece of brass that stood up to the PO's mega axle torque that was too much for my horror fright electric impact wrench, don't know what he was thinking but a piece of pipe on the 1/2" ratchet handle did the trick.

So, you are saying that the axle is out and the problem is solved?

 

[Zorlac]

"macinstien"

Has, or had, a problem.

I don't, at least with my front axle anyway.

 

[ionbeam]

I picked up this tool set, a steering head wrench and the 19mm tool that works for the front and rear axle. Haven't had an axle problem since.