Throttle Control Challange & Transmission non-shifts

[Duc4Doc]

I am interested in thoughts concerning two issues. I have a few decades experience, and some track experience. Approching 2k miles on a new '06 FJR.

When cornering, after I lean in, I usually add a little maintenance throttle-ie just enough to maintain the current speed until I apex and accelerate/straighten. With the FJR, there is so much torque, that even the slightest crack of throttle often brings a jolt with it. I think this is potentially hazardous. I had my dealer remove as much play out of the throttle, but I am still jolted, as hard as I try to be a smooth rider.

I usually use very little clutch during shifts. This transmission is so stiff, that initally, about a third of all shifts, both up and down, didn't occur. I have to let it out, then bring the lever all the way to the grip. Now, with almost 2k, it still does this about 20% of the time. Sometimes I also need to stomp on a downshift. Dealer suggested going to synthetic oil. I think the tranny should be smoother by now. Any ideas?

Thanks,

D4D

 

[stretch]

With the FJR, there is so much torque, that even the slightest crack of throttle often brings a jolt with it.

The torque is not the problem, the throttle on the 06 is the problem.

Why Yamaha tried to fix some thing that wasn't broken beats me.

They changed the pully design so it opens quicker from down low, so on throttle/of throttle/on throttle transition is not smooth.

I aslo used to ride like you, using the throttle to steer to a degree, but it is not as good on the 06 compared to other models, or other bikes for that matter.

There are several ways to help the throttle problem, one is to fit a Power Commander and the other is to do a throttle mod which you can see HERE

In regards to yout trans they all seem a little on the stiff side but free up with use.

You may have done 2,000 k's but where was most of it done?

My first 2,000 ks was all done in the hills, constantly changing gears where as highway riding requires few gear changes.

You must remember that the FJR has a trans built like a truck so I don't think it will ever be what most would call a "light" shift.

 

[Wolfhound]

Do both, I did and am very happy with final results. Was extremely scary in the canyons before fix....

 

[Duc4Doc]

Do both, I did and am very happy with final results. Was extremely scary in the canyons before fix....

Thanks for the good advice! I did the cable mod, but am unfamiliar with Power Commander, other than hearing the name. I searched and found a great report

'PCIII cures all ills!!!!!! Well, almost'

He described a great cure. Can someone tell me what the Power Commander does? I can't figure it out from the website.

Thanks

D4D

 

[HaulinAshe]

I don't have an 06, I have on 05. But my recommendations would include...

* Do the Barbarian jumper mod and tweak the low-end CO settings (up) +7 each.

* Increase the idle RPM 200. You will have to downshift one extra gear in some twisty situations. The increased idle RPM setting costs you a bit in engine braking over stock settings.

The richer bottom-end mixture combined with the slightly more open throttle body (idle) setting, makes the bottom end transition much smoother.

* You might also consider a set of Grip Puppies. They are soft, squishy, comfortable, and sorta old-man ugly. But the increased diameter of the grip makes the throttle more manageable.

* Tighten the piss out of the throttle cables. I run absolutely no discernable slack.

* Remove the throttle tube/grip. Clean it thoroughly and lube the tube and bar with silicon spray. Don't use WD-40, light grease or any of the other commonly recommended lubes. Anything that has tack will attract grit (bad thing). Anything with body (like grease) creates resistance that contributes to a touchy throttle. Silicone spray lube is a motocross trick we've been using for years. You will need to redo the lube about every six months.

* Lastly, try squeezing a little clutch pressure going into the corners. Not enough to really feather it, just enough to eliminate the free play and have definite pressure on the release. If you happen to get jerky on the throttle, the motion of your body jerking backwards will instantly cause a slight release of the clutch. It's almost a "clutch governor" type situation. Probably should not have shared that one. It's an old race secret of mine. Oh well, I will never have to run against any of you guys, RIGHT?

:huh:

*** Forgot to add, and this is NOT an oil thread/post. But do consider switching to a lighter weight synthetic if you are in a cool climate. It will help a little bit with the transmission shifts. But the biggest help you can get is miles, miles, miles and more miles. My 05 smoothed out a bunch after 10k.

 

[Wolfhound]

With the Powercommander you will get much smoother throttle response off idle and all thru rpm range. It remaps the injectors. The Barbarian Jumper mod will richen or lean over the complete range, not just where you need it, I tried that first and reset it when I put on PC as '06 seems to be more of a problem than other years.

Any slack in throttle cable definetly makes it tough ......JMO

 

[madmike2]

'PCIII cures all ills!!!!!! Well, almost'
He described a great cure. Can someone tell me what the Power Commander does? I can't figure it out from the website.

Thanks

D4D

The Power Commander electronically retructures the fuel mixture. Its a "plug and play" replacement for the ECU module. There are a number of different programs available for those who have installed aftermarket slip-ons or complete header/muffler systems. Most who have done this "farkle" report that the throttle transitions are MUCH smoother.

 

[FJRski]

With the FJR, there is so much torque, that even the slightest crack of throttle often brings a jolt with it.

My advice - - for what it is worth - - and before you spend a lot of $$$ on a solution:

Put another 2 k on her, adjust the cables, and maybe do a TBS. I suspect you'll see a complete change in character.

As many on this forum have said, the FJR has a fairly long break-in period. I believe that. During the first 4k miles, mine had a throttle response that could best be described as vicious. Opening the throttle ever so little resulted in a cannonshot of acceleration. The wife bitched about my driving (although that's nothin' unusual), and I didn't even let her on till I had a few thousand on it. It wasn't looking good. I don't know how much I improved, and how much the bike mellowed-out, but it seems to handle much better now. +1 on reducing cable slack, and I feather the clutch a little in low speed (intersection-type) hard turns to compensate for abrupt speed changes, but then I never claimed to have great technique.

 

[Cdogman]

Yep. I got 2k on mine and I plan on PCIII , did barb mod, did throttle spring thingy, did Umm Somthin else. I love my bike. But as I get better I see places for improvement. I am gonna wait tho cuz I only got 2k on it (not killometers, miles) and I gotta letter grow on me.

I have been trying to be smooth, the gas does come on hard. and I love it, and I am allowing all to happen as I get into riding her I( it is a girl ) and will wiat till I give her a chance to know me before I get too excited.

Next year I shall spoil her with all the cool **** that can be bought. But this year we both!! bring bagage into this relationship. I accept her for now how she is.

Night "Lil *****"

Love //Cdog??

Hes all like [SIZE=36pt] "ARF"[/SIZE] and ****

 

[Wolfhound]

I'm over 6000 miles in 4 months.....

 

[FJRski]

Next year I shall spoil her with all the cool **** that can be bought.

+1

 

[TheRepairMan]

There's this dude called IVAN over on the Yamaha FZ1oa forum that has built an electronic devise that completely eliminates the "Throttle Snatch" on the 06 Yamaha FZ1. The fuel systems are very nearly identical to the new FJR so I'm thinking he might adapt another option for you guys. It wouldn't hurt to ask ...and I'll be glad to if anyone is the least be curious.

https://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/contact.htm

BTW, my bike displays some of the throttle transition abruptness when pushed hard and the 06 FZ1 owners have become experts in word play about it, not to mention correcting the problem. :lol:

https://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/search.php?searchid=564782

...but as Jeff Ashe said, take ALL of the slack out of the throttle cable to start with plus the other mods if (as) needed but don't forget to practice smooth, precise and controlled control wrist movements especially in those turns.

Contacthone Number (Required for Vendors):

845-268-1212

Name:

Ivan Rovinsky

Location:

Congers, New York

Occupation:

Tuner, Motorcycles

"Performance Master"

Roger

Back yard tuner

 

[jwit6]

Easiest and cleanest way to fix the throttle sensitivity is to replace the throttle grip tube assembly with a g2 ergonomics street bike throttle tube and #400 cam . About 64 bucks shipped. www.g2ergo.com

 

[GAPS]

Easiest and cleanest way to fix the throttle sensitivity is to replace the throttle grip tube assembly with a g2 ergonomics street bike throttle tube and #400 cam . About 64 bucks shipped. www.g2ergo.com

jwit6, are you using one of these on a 06? Is it a simple install or does the piece need modification? This looks like a great product, if it drops right in I will try one...please advise

 

[TheRepairMan]

Easiest and cleanest way to fix the throttle sensitivity is to replace the throttle grip tube assembly with a g2 ergonomics street bike throttle tube and #400 cam . About 64 bucks shipped. www.g2ergo.com

jwit6, are you using one of these on a 06? Is it a simple install or does the piece need modification? This looks like a great product, if it drops right in I will try one...please advise

Hey, thanks jwit6 !

I'm very much in need of something like that on my 06 FZ1. It is fine when your just riding like you have some sense, but if you get aggressive and push the engine into it's power band, 8 to 10 grand, off/on transitions especially laid over, can be a real eye opener.

Many owners crashed real early on because the power comes on so hard and they weren't expecting that kind of reaction since they were use to liter sized carbed bikes. It's not too bad if you're expecting it and prepare ahead, or are going straight, but the big Yamahas demand some respect, and need some serious Fuel Injection mods to take care of the "snatch".

Mine is still stock so I just had to relearn how to ride more smoothly, and I don't push it to the edge of my abilities. I'll definitely contact that company to see what applications they suggest for my street bike. I like the idea of a mod that's not going to mess up my fuel mileage.

Roger

 

[Wolfhound]

.g2ergo.com Looks nice if you've got the money vs free Fred H mod.....

 

[user 3386]

I'll be ordering the PCIIIusb next week, but I'm still curious whether or not the FJR's (or any shaft-drive bike's) shaft-lash effect is a major contributor to these jerky, "torquey" throttle response issues? Chain-drive sport bikes I've had (albeit carb'd) had smoother response to throttle on/off.

 

[sparky3008]

I am interested in thoughts concerning two issues. I have a few decades experience, and some track experience. Approching 2k miles on a new '06 FJR.
When cornering, after I lean in, I usually add a little maintenance throttle-ie just enough to maintain the current speed until I apex and accelerate/straighten. With the FJR, there is so much torque, that even the slightest crack of throttle often brings a jolt with it. I think this is potentially hazardous. I had my dealer remove as much play out of the throttle, but I am still jolted, as hard as I try to be a smooth rider.

I usually use very little clutch during shifts. This transmission is so stiff, that initally, about a third of all shifts, both up and down, didn't occur. I have to let it out, then bring the lever all the way to the grip. Now, with almost 2k, it still does this about 20% of the time. Sometimes I also need to stomp on a downshift. Dealer suggested going to synthetic oil. I think the tranny should be smoother by now. Any ideas?

Thanks,

D4D

https://www.starmotorcycle.com/ Check out this vide of Jason Pridmore. Pay attention to the throttle % going into the corner and listen to the bike. He doesn't seem to use any maintenance throttle and you only start to hear it come off of engine breaking and onto throttle at the apex.

I too have struggle, especially at slow speed, with getting maintenance throttle correct as such a small movement makes such a differene on the litre bikes.

I have started trying to just carry the speed into the corner off the throttle and then just start to accell after the apex using no maintenance throttle.

Of course in slow speed drills this isn't an option and I just find being 1 gear up makes it easier.

Such as doing 40' circles at 20mph doing it in 2nd is much easier than in 1st.

Enjoy the video either way!!!

 

[temp357]

I'll be ordering the PCIIIusb next week, but I'm still curious whether or not the FJR's (or any shaft-drive bike's) shaft-lash effect is a major contributor to these jerky, "torquey" throttle response issues? Chain-drive sport bikes I've had (albeit carb'd) had smoother response to throttle on/off.

My R1100S was a shaft drive and I never experiencing a throttle lash like this.