2014 w/ 25k miles, original owner. I read as many forum posts as I could about the dreaded ticks, and newbs such as me being pointed to them. Maybe I missed something. My bike has been flawless for 10 years, regularly maintained at dealer. Took it to an independent mechanic that’s more of a generalist for a bunch of preventative service, including prescribed valve checks. Got bike back today and it’s ticking loudly in the front, lower end of the engine near the ground. Mechanic says they tested it for valve leaks and pressure tests and can’t figure out why it’s ticking, but they read a bunch of forum post that said it’s normal. All I know is it wasn’t doing it before and it’s doing it now (loudly) and other than the valve clearance ( they said they needed to add shims) the only thing done to the engine was new spark plugs. My gut tells me I shouldn’t take it back to the same mechanic but other than that I’m kind of at a loss. Any advice other than learning to wrench it myself? Thanks.
Ticking sound after valve adjustment
- Thread starter Kingchupi
- Start date
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Rogue
Well-known member
If the valves are way loose you will get noise.
RossKean
Well-known member
I would see if they could tell you their measured clearances, the size of shims removed, the number (out of 16) they changed, and the size they replaced them with. That would go a long way toward telling me if they messed up. For what it is worth, it is fairly rare that ANY valve adjustments have to be made at just 25,000 miles. If they changed multiple and there were large differences, I would be concerned.
Ticking is NOT normal - at least very audible ticking beyond what you would expect from any engine. How is power? How is idle? Easy to start? (Just making sure timing didn't get messed up too.)
Personally, I would dive in and check the valve clearances. Not too difficult, especially if you aren't planning to make changes. If some are WAY out of spec, you'll have to decide whether to fix it yourself, take it back or find a mechanic who knows WTF they are doing.
Ticking is NOT normal - at least very audible ticking beyond what you would expect from any engine. How is power? How is idle? Easy to start? (Just making sure timing didn't get messed up too.)
Personally, I would dive in and check the valve clearances. Not too difficult, especially if you aren't planning to make changes. If some are WAY out of spec, you'll have to decide whether to fix it yourself, take it back or find a mechanic who knows WTF they are doing.
torch
Well-known member
Lower front engine does not sound like valves. And while loose valves will make a little clatter, I would not describe the sound as a loud tick. A small exhaust leak can certainly make such a noise though.
Get a stethoscope, one with a funnel style end, and carefully check the exhaust pipes at the joints and at the short cross-over between 2 and 3. If the shop lifted the bike by placing something under the exhaust, they may have damaged a joint or weld. The exhaust is not designed to hold the weight of the bike.
If that doesn't reveal anything, next I would double check that the chain adjuster screw was released after the cams were reinstalled. There's a rubber plug in the right side frame and should be a cover bolt on the adjuster itself. It's a PITA to remove and reinstall, but doable. See one of the many valve shim adjustment threads for more information With the cap removed a long narrow straight screwdriver can be used through the frame hole to see if the screw is fully clockwise (not released) or can be turned but springs back (released).
If the adjuster is released then I would remove the right hand lower crankcase cover and the valve cover and check the camshaft alignment marks Again, see one of the tutorials. It's real easy to be out one tooth which could potentially cause some noise echoing through the exhaust.
Once you are at that stage, you are ready to check the valve clearances themselves.
Get a stethoscope, one with a funnel style end, and carefully check the exhaust pipes at the joints and at the short cross-over between 2 and 3. If the shop lifted the bike by placing something under the exhaust, they may have damaged a joint or weld. The exhaust is not designed to hold the weight of the bike.
If that doesn't reveal anything, next I would double check that the chain adjuster screw was released after the cams were reinstalled. There's a rubber plug in the right side frame and should be a cover bolt on the adjuster itself. It's a PITA to remove and reinstall, but doable. See one of the many valve shim adjustment threads for more information With the cap removed a long narrow straight screwdriver can be used through the frame hole to see if the screw is fully clockwise (not released) or can be turned but springs back (released).
If the adjuster is released then I would remove the right hand lower crankcase cover and the valve cover and check the camshaft alignment marks Again, see one of the tutorials. It's real easy to be out one tooth which could potentially cause some noise echoing through the exhaust.
Once you are at that stage, you are ready to check the valve clearances themselves.
torch
Well-known member
BTW: the infamous FJR valve tick was limited to early Gen 1 models and developed over time. It could be heard from the upper left of the engine and sounded more like a metallic rattle (some described it as shaking a bag full of cutlery) in the early stages.
All good advice, and very appreciative for your collective thoughts. Not sure I have the skills to attempt anything as complex as what @torch describes, but it does tell me I’m hearing isn’t normal and I shouldn’t just live with it.
I think next steps are to follow up with the mechanic offer him some of the thoughts in this thread and take it from there. Fingers crossed.
I think next steps are to follow up with the mechanic offer him some of the thoughts in this thread and take it from there. Fingers crossed.
Mihalis fjr
Well-known member
Post a video hear to listen this sound.Could help a lot!
Diablo1
Well-known member
I would put a new upgraded cam chain tensioner in it. It seems that those old tensioners fail after valve adjustment when the spring gets released and compressed.
RossKean
Well-known member
Never heard about this being an issue with anything as recent as 2014.
Diablo1
Well-known member
You are right, but this may be the start of a problem. Ten years old and tensioner spring was cycled, and now it’s making noise.
Idle seems way high to start.
And, yes, that's not right. It seems specific to a cylinder valve that's clicking. WAY louder, stronger, and more consistent than the subtle amount sometimes FJRs tick.
It doesn't seem like a cam chain tensioner as that sound is more of a sloppy chain and not specific to a certain cylinder. And it doesn't sound like the metallic sound of Gen 1 with the dreaded valve tick of wearing valve guides.
If it was quiet before, noisy now after they service it, I'd take it back an not accept it until it becomes quiet again.
And, yes, that's not right. It seems specific to a cylinder valve that's clicking. WAY louder, stronger, and more consistent than the subtle amount sometimes FJRs tick.
It doesn't seem like a cam chain tensioner as that sound is more of a sloppy chain and not specific to a certain cylinder. And it doesn't sound like the metallic sound of Gen 1 with the dreaded valve tick of wearing valve guides.
If it was quiet before, noisy now after they service it, I'd take it back an not accept it until it becomes quiet again.
Diablo1
Well-known member
At a minimum, measure the valve clearance again.
torch
Well-known member
Yeah, that's not the infamous Gen 1 tick. And on hearing it, I don't think that's a tiny exhaust leak -- too metallic. That sounds like a valve has a bit too much clearance. Your perception that it is coming from the bottom of the engine may just be the way it is echoing. I'd use a stethoscope to pin the location down, but for an internal sound I'd use one with a solid probe rod (some people claim a long screwdriver between engine and ear works as well, but I find my old ears need the stethoscope).
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