To hang off the bike in turns, or not

[HaulinAshe]

Groo, EXACTLY!

I strive to get my body positioned, bike leaned, entry speed established etc. etc., BEFORE entering the turn. A weight shift in the turn would typically induce unwanted changes.

IMHO it takes more hang off center in Tenn. than in NC. Because in Tenn they have a fondness for those decreasing radius turns. So I like to go into Tenn. turns with some extra room in the balance.



I think Tenn. turns must be leftovers from moonshining days when the decreasing radius was used to filter out LEOs/Revenuers from out of town.

 

[James Burleigh]

So, what're ya wearing for a helmet these days?

In the photo above I'm wearing a Snell-certified ICON. But that is now my backup. I picked up a new SUOMY that is NOT Snell-certified. British standard only. No more Snells for me, as I indicated a couple of months ago in that other thread.

Here's the standard:

JB

 

[Toecutter]

Just to keep this fire stoked... if I'm reading Lee Parks correctly in his book, he discourages making adjustments to weight/position in a corner... I believe his position is that you get set up for the corner (hang on, upright, whatever) and use the handlebars once you start your turn in.

As one who's learned from him firsthand, I can say from experience that's exactly his M.O.
In the class, he does a drill where some other classmates take turns holding the bike while he talks each student (in riding position on his own bike) through the process of a turn. The classmates even lean the bike over in place and back upright as the student feels the right position and the turn is executed.

Then we went out to the range to do it for real, and the first FJR in line lowsided right before it was my turn to go. What a confidence builder!

I'd list his ten steps, but I'm not home with the book right now and don't remember all ten. The two that do stand out are "Reposition the foot (rearward on peg), then Pre-position the body (as in before you look through the turn and press on the inside grip to initiate the turn-in).

I'd highly recommend Lee's class if it's available near you. Is there still some possibilty of one at WFO?

I picked up a new SUOMY that is NOT Snell-certified. British standard only. No more Snells for me, as I indicated a couple of months ago in that other thread.

Do you find that the Suomy runs a bit small? That was my experience. I wore a large in the old Shoei and my new Z1R (non-Snell, thanks BTW) but the XL Suomy seemed to fit me better. Is the Suomy quiet?

 

[James Burleigh]

Do you find that the Suomy runs a bit small? That was my experience. I wore a large in the old Shoei and my new Z1R (non-Snell, thanks BTW) but the XL Suomy seemed to fit me better. Is the Suomy quiet?

I could tell you tales that would make grown men weep....

Yes--too small!

First I ordered a medium at Cycle Gear. I couldn't get it over my head. So I ordered the large. I got that one over my head, snuggly, and decided to walk out of the store with it. Yet I could not wear it for 45 minutes without having to pull over and rip it off my head. It was causing my whole scalp to go numb, and causing pain in the rear quarters of my head.

I persevered for a month, thinking it would break in. Finally I could wear it a whole hour before having to tear it off. So in the mean time I ordered the XL, expecting to rule it out and keep breaking in the L. I tried the XL on finally, and it was like Prince Charming to my Cinderela. I was surprised it was so snug for an XL. But it felt great.

And THAT, BTW, is why we buy helmets only at Cycle Gear (30-day exchanges).

Speaking of bad sizing, ever buy Widder electric gloves? They run HUGELY large. I started with an XL (typical in a glove for me), but finally landed on a medium, which is still a little roomy.

It does seem loud, yes. But I think all helmets I've had are noisy, so I always wear earplugs anyway, making it kinda moot.

JB

 

[chornbe]

Just to keep this fire stoked... if I'm reading Lee Parks correctly in his book, he discourages making adjustments to weight/position in a corner... I believe his position is that you get set up for the corner (hang on, upright, whatever) and use the handlebars once you start your turn in.

As one who's learned from him firsthand, I can say from experience that's exactly his M.O.
In the class, he does a drill where some other classmates take turns holding the bike while he talks each student (in riding position on his own bike) through the process of a turn. The classmates even lean the bike over in place and back upright as the student feels the right position and the turn is executed.

Then we went out to the range to do it for real, and the first FJR in line lowsided right before it was my turn to go. What a confidence builder!

I'd list his ten steps, but I'm not home with the book right now and don't remember all ten. The two that do stand out are "Reposition the foot (rearward on peg), then Pre-position the body (as in before you look through the turn and press on the inside grip to initiate the turn-in).

I'd highly recommend Lee's class if it's available near you. Is there still some possibilty of one at WFO?

I've taken the Parks class. For the last few months I've been consciously blending my riding styles between the various books, classes, etc.

I routinely break one of the Parks rules about not shifting weight/position in turns. Sometimes you have have to adjust. I also pull my body back up earlier than the Parks instructors suggested, but again, each individual has to adjust for himself. Any instructor should recommend practicing and "making the instruction your own".

The Parks class definitely helped my riding and confidence, but more so now that I've had time to live with the instruction and practice the techniques and blending them into my own riding.

+1 for formalized instruction!!!

$.02