TPS recalled and sent for repair...

[Thug]

Hey Sport

Go to where a dealer has the right set up and can do an ECU swap for a test...remember to take your master key with you

Good luck

 

[Patriot]

Thanks Gary,
You gave me a lot to chew on. I was really hopin not to go that deep, but...

On another note, I charged the battery overnight, started it this afternoon and ran it to temperature. It seemed to idle slightly better but still had the exact same issue as before.

Has anyone here encountered a battery causing RPM fluctuations? The battery is approx. 4 years old, could it be time?

absolutely, a four years battery is an OLD, OLD battery

I change mine out before three as a maintenance item - the heat (& vibration of us all) here in the deep south deterioates batterys pretty good and I do put lotsa miles on my Feej. I ride all over creation and am far from home at times.

Cheers,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[ionbeam]

Recently I've seen the battery mentioned as a possible source for poor running in a couple of threads. I *really* don't think this is likely unless there is something (very, very) seriously wrong with the charging system.

The coils will continue to fire with battery voltage down to ~8.7 - 9 VDC, at least well enough to run the engine over 5k rpm. At that voltage level perhaps the coils won't be able to sparkle you to red-line but the engine will run. The ECU monitors battery voltage and adjusts the FI accordingly. Last fall, while on an errand run, my Electrosport went PHHHHTTZZZZZZ and the magic smoke left the corpse. On the ride home post Electrosport burn-up my electrical system dropped into the 9 volt region several times, yet my FJR continued to run just fine, no misfire, no power loss and no rev limit; though the rider was s#hitting bricks hoping to make it home before final flame-out. I did made it home with around 9.0 volts showing on the volt meter.

As far as the Gen I barometric and atmospheric sensors, I've run my FJR with both disconnected while diagnosing problems. I would have never known they were disconnected by the way my FJR ran.

Have you checked to ensure that the ECU connector is fully plugged in and the locking bar is in place? Have you done a Barbarian tweak to the FI offsets?

 

[SPORT]

Have you checked to ensure that the ECU connector is fully plugged in and the locking bar is in place? Have you done a Barbarian tweak to the FI offsets?

See post #10, 15, & 26. I have had the connectors apart, cleaned and re-installed 3 times now and it does not change how it runs.

The Barbarian mod has been completed and the numbers are the same today as they were when I 1st did this mod.

I have put about 1,000 miles and a modded airbox (C-Dogman style) and it has ran beautifuly up until about 100 miles ago. I predicting the stealer is gonna say it's the airbox mod, but again, no one else who has modded the boxis indicating any problems AND mine ran fine for about 1,000 miles.

There is something ironic though. After charging the bike over night I went for a ride and the bike did seem to ride smoother. this is the ONLY reason why I'm even considering a battery; albiet, it does not make much sense.

I'll keep lookin though.

 

[Gary]

There is something ironic though. After charging the bike over night I went for a ride and the bike did seem to ride smoother. this is the ONLY reason why I'm even considering a battery; albiet, it does not make much sense.

I reread the post and didn't find the answer to this, but have you checked the voltage while the engine is running? (I'm wondering if your stator is underproducing, causing a slow degradation instead of a sudden failure)

Your symptoms sure do sound like what fuel injected vehicles do when the battery is dying, except that it's dragging out rather than completely shutting down.

Simple voltage check at the battery while the engine is running should be high 13's to low 14's, lower indicates charging system, higher indicates battery.

 

[Patriot]

also, and gawd forbid this one:

my Vulcan stator gave up the ghost gradually

voltage dropped with one phase of the stator kickin' out ONLY when the engine was running awhile and especially in hot weather with engine warm and fan coming on at times.

heat must have caused one of the windings to fail and the phase would no longer be in the loop.

it was a real ***** to deal with until the stator was finally replaced with a Rick's stator and all was again well

Cheers,

Mike in Nawlins'

 

[SPORT]

Simple voltage check at the battery while the engine is running should be high 13's to low 14's, lower indicates charging system, higher indicates battery.

I agree that it would seem more logical if the Stator was going but I'm under the assumption that they were pretty much fail proof. Is this not the case? Nevertheless, I just haven't had the fairing off to check yet. Will try to get to it in the next couple days as I'm working two 10hr days this weekend.

also, and gawd forbid this one:
my Vulcan stator gave up the ghost gradually

voltage dropped with one phase of the stator kickin' out ONLY when the engine was running awhile and especially in hot weather with engine warm and fan coming on at times.

heat must have caused one of the windings to fail and the phase would no longer be in the loop.

it was a real ***** to deal with until the stator was finally replaced with a Rick's stator and all was again well

Cheers,

Mike in Nawlins'

Mike,

That's really not the news I wanted to hear. With that in mind, what does a descent stator cost for a Gen. I Feejer?

 

[Patriot]

Simple voltage check at the battery while the engine is running should be high 13's to low 14's, lower indicates charging system, higher indicates battery.

I agree that it would seem more logical if the Stator was going but I'm under the assumption that they were pretty much fail proof. Is this not the case? Nevertheless, I just haven't had the fairing off to check yet. Will try to get to it in the next couple days as I'm working two 10hr days this weekend.

also, and gawd forbid this one:
my Vulcan stator gave up the ghost gradually

voltage dropped with one phase of the stator kickin' out ONLY when the engine was running awhile and especially in hot weather with engine warm and fan coming on at times.

heat must have caused one of the windings to fail and the phase would no longer be in the loop.

it was a real ***** to deal with until the stator was finally replaced with a Rick's stator and all was again well

Cheers,

Mike in Nawlins'

Mike,

That's really not the news I wanted to hear. With that in mind, what does a descent stator cost for a Gen. I Feejer?

sorry, no personal experience on Feejers and hope I never have any - Ionbeam would know, I believe

***** of my ole Vulcan was the necessary engine pull to replace a stator; yikes

check of my Dennis Kirk catalog ('2007) Ricks $133 Electrosport $175

 

[SPORT]

check of my Dennis Kirk catalog ('2007) Ricks $133 Electrosport $175

Patriot,

I found THIS link from Electrosport for $179. Seems like the way to go, if in fact my stator is toast.

I'll check in the next several days.

I should probably include now that I installed a Gerbing harness, dual portable pots with Gerbing Classic heated gloves and the all new Gerbing heated soles. Them kept me quite warm, but may be part of the reason...

Anyone done this procedure on the FJR? How difficult is it?

I'll also check FJR1300.info later.

 

[Patriot]

check of my Dennis Kirk catalog ('2007) Ricks $133 Electrosport $175

Patriot,

I found THIS link from Electrosport for $179. Seems like the way to go, if in fact my stator is toast.

I'll check in the next several days.

Anyone done this procedure on the FJR?

paging Mr Ionbeam, paging Mr Ionbeam, pls pickup the white courtesy phone

Ionbeam's Stator Troubles

well it's time to learn how to google search it's ?????? site:fjrforum.com

I searched stator site:fjrforum.com and lotsa threads and info popped up

Cheers,

Mike "searching for something" in Nawlins'

 

[SkooterG]

SPORT, I have been following this thread and am sorry to hear you haven't got it figured out yet.

It's GOT to be the airbox mod! :blink:

Seriously, I don't think much of the Barbarain adjustment, and the TBS is going to have negligible effect. I wish I cold help more. Perhaps it is the stator.

If it is, I would not recommend the Electrosport, nor any aftermarket, as they have been frying on a semi-regular basis as reported around here.

If you really want an Electosport however, I will sell you mine (never used) for significantly less than $179.

 

[SPORT]

SkooterG,

PM Sent.

How magnamanous of you to sell you® semi fried stator for a considerable discount.

Seriously, I thank you for the offer and will consider it, but now that flags have been raised it sound(s) (as though) I need to utilize that seach string Patriot suggested in finding out how to R&R the stator

I am surprised to hear that the aftermarket (stator) is not holding up too well. The advertisement makes some pretty bold claims!

Thanks for the heads up.

EDIT: (Gross spelling errors)

 

[SPORT]

Bike dropped off at the dealer last night. Hopefully they find an o-ring within or near the TPS pinched, tore, or otherwise damaged.

 

[SPORT]

Dealer called.

Mechanic says it's defined more as a surge than a miss. They replaced the TPS with my old one and it still had the same problem. Re-installed my 'new' TPS and adjusted CO's +5. Mechanic says it's more 'crisp' now.

I then responded to the service manager, "Huh, I already went +7 after buying the Feej 2 years ago :huh: . Also, why is the 'surge' just revealing itself again now after 2 years?" Service manager also asked if I considered a PC-III. He thinks it will smooth things out. I told him I took it out to troubleshoot the miss :huh: .

He wants me to pick it up and take it for a ride without any definitive fix. <_<

 

[Gary]

Dealer called.
Mechanic says it's defined more as a surge than a miss. They replaced the TPS with my old one and it still had the same problem. Re-installed my 'new' TPS and adjusted CO's +5. Mechanic says it's more 'crisp' now.

I then responded to the service manager, "Huh, I already went +7 after buying the Feej 2 years ago :huh: . Also, why is the 'surge' just revealing itself again now after 2 years?" Service manager also asked if I considered a PC-III. He thinks it will smooth things out. I told him I took it out to troubleshoot the miss :huh: .

He wants me to pick it up and take it for a ride without any definitive fix. <_<

[SIZE=18pt]"more crisp" does not equal RIGHT.[/SIZE]

If it's not electrical, it may be time for a compression check. I'm not sure about the ethics of a dealer that tries to mask a problem by playing with emissions and suggests a $300 aftermarket add-on. Your motorcycle, in stock condition, should not be doing this.

(he did check battery/stator, right?)

You may also want to disconnect your electrical accessories at the battery and check the voltage-carrying wiring for high-resistance shorts to ground.

 

[Gary]

I just went back and re-read your original post. Your bike started running rough soon after getting the TPS recall letter, and I think you may be mistakenly attributing your problems to the TPS.

I'm thinking the two things aren't related, just a coincedence.

 

[SPORT]

Gary, Perhaps. But the issue was remedied for about 50 miles after the TPS was replaced, then it began missing/bucking, much the same way as the TPS began to fail. I think it was an O-ring/seal misplaced by the mechanic. If so, maybe it was corrected when he R&R'd it again???

 

[Gary]

Maybe you're right. You going to go pick it up tomorrow?

 

[RadioHowie]

Gary, Perhaps. But the issue was remedied for about 50 miles after the TPS was replaced, then it began missing/bucking, much the same way as the TPS began to fail. I think it was an O-ring/seal misplaced by the mechanic. If so, maybe it was corrected when he R&R'd it again???

You think they'd fess up if they effed up?

 

[SPORT]

Went to pick it up this afternoon.

Started her up, let her warm up and then set the RPM (via Throttle Meister) to 3,000RPM. The engine continued to randomly miss and cycle from 3,500 down to 2,800, then up to 3,800 and back to 3,500 RPM. I brought the tech out to listen, who watched and heard the engine run. He then fussed with the throttle a bit and realized there IS something wrong. We talked a bit and he asked what all YOUR thoughts are on this problem. I shared how a number of you mentioned ECU, a vacuum leak, or TPS. Then I remembered someone mentioning the coils. It sparked a memory in the Service Tech about a coil issue the R1's are having. He is gonna review it and see if the symptoms are similar. He is also going to contact MamaYama to see if they have any intel.

Guess I'll sit and impatiently wait...