Trailer Build - hopefully in improvement to my current one

[Auburn]

I appreciate how much work went into the trailer, however, why would anyone want to attach something so ugly to such a beautiful bike. Just sayin'.

it is in the eye of the beholder...also it serves practical reasons for trips that we take. It will go to the artic circle in a few years. I want to work out the kinks first to make sure it can handle the environment. My other trailer has been to Alaska twice among other long trips, and has had some issues.

This trailer is probably the first of two or three to dial it in for the long trips where durability is extremely important. With revisions comes will come aesthetic changes, but functionality must take precedence over everything else. Finally, the costs is 1/5th of the current model of a Bushtec trailer.

 

[Fred W]

I appreciate how much work went into the trailer, however, why would anyone want to attach something so ugly to such a beautiful bike. Just sayin'.

Why be that way? If you can't appreciate someone else's work, why not just hold you tongue?

How did anyone benefit from that comment?

 

[CAJW]

I appreciate how much work went into the trailer, however, why would anyone want to attach something so ugly to such a beautiful bike. Just sayin'.

Why be that way? If you can't appreciate someone else's work, why not just hold you tongue?

How did anyone benefit from that comment?

WTF??? If you can appreciate how much work went into a project like that, then show some appreciation for all the work that went into a project like that and keep your negative opinions to yourself. Geez.....

 

[raesewell]

I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I did say that I know a lot of good work went into the trailer. But c'mon it's not a beauty. I wasn't out to upset anyone and if I did I'm sorry. It's his bike and he can bolt as many ugly things to it as he likes. I'll get my coat

 

[08FJR4ME]

I appreciate how much work went into the trailer, however, why would anyone want to attach something so ugly to such a beautiful bike. Just sayin'.

Well, let's see how much better you can do. I think I will be waiting a long time.

Dave

 

[eflyguy]

Nice job..

In a pinch, is the lid strong enough to throw down a pad and sleep on?

 

[JamesW]

Form follows function in my opinion, the trailer is cavernous and smacks of expedition quality. Weight (lightness) is amazing compared to laid up fiberglass. Adding the additional battery is a great thought. I look at that trailer and I think "base camp". Be interesting to see how it performs for you.

 

[NTXFJR]

It turned out very slick, double the Pieman like. I might have missed it in the thread, but did you figure out what the total cubic ft. capacity is? Also, is the plunger switch next to your wiring panel for an interior light or perhaps alarm system?

Internal dimensions are:

39" W x 71" long x 25" tall = 39.88 Cubic Feet

Correct the switch is for the LED light mounted to the underside of the lid near the back.

I am going to install a battery box to carry a spare battery the same size as the FJR battery, but also to use as a source when the trailer is unplugged so I can use the light in the trailer. Also it will be set up to be charged while the bike is running.

Weight wise, the trailer was 150 lbs before the sheet metal went on. There is about 80 lbs of 22 gage sheet metal installed. The trailer is about 230 lbs. Higher than I wanted, but I couldn't justify ALU at $400 per sheet (3 needed) verses $38 per sheet for the steel.

All in, I am sitting at about $1100 for the trailer, that includes the spare wheel/tire assembly.

It's been fun watching the progress of this build. Seems like the extra battery in the trailer is a great idea to power the dome light but you might consider looking into whether to use the bike's charging system to recharge it if you haven't already done so. The bike's regulator / rectifier is rated for only a certain amount of power and the factory engineers designed it for the amp draw of one battery. The diodes and filters in those units will take a certain continuous load, and maybe a temporary elevated load and still be ok, anything above that may cause it to overheat and fail at some point. I'm betting a small led dome light will draw very little juice, so an extra battery of that size will last probably weeks out in the field. Maybe use a battery tender once in a while to keep it fresh? I'm no electrical engineer, nor did I sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.

 

[Fred W]

If the dome light is LED you may never have to charge the battery!

 

[Panman]

I've carried the original 07 FJR battery for running my Bi-Pap machine on while camping and no problems so far.

 

[MadMax1996]

Just have the trailer charge the battery as it rolls! See? Prob solved.

BTW - I've enjoyed watching the progress of this build. I hope it performs to your expectations.

 

[Auburn]

It turned out very slick, double the Pieman like. I might have missed it in the thread, but did you figure out what the total cubic ft. capacity is? Also, is the plunger switch next to your wiring panel for an interior light or perhaps alarm system?

Internal dimensions are:

39" W x 71" long x 25" tall = 39.88 Cubic Feet

Correct the switch is for the LED light mounted to the underside of the lid near the back.

I am going to install a battery box to carry a spare battery the same size as the FJR battery, but also to use as a source when the trailer is unplugged so I can use the light in the trailer. Also it will be set up to be charged while the bike is running.

Weight wise, the trailer was 150 lbs before the sheet metal went on. There is about 80 lbs of 22 gage sheet metal installed. The trailer is about 230 lbs. Higher than I wanted, but I couldn't justify ALU at $400 per sheet (3 needed) verses $38 per sheet for the steel.

All in, I am sitting at about $1100 for the trailer, that includes the spare wheel/tire assembly.

It's been fun watching the progress of this build. Seems like the extra battery in the trailer is a great idea to power the dome light but you might consider looking into whether to use the bike's charging system to recharge it if you haven't already done so. The bike's regulator / rectifier is rated for only a certain amount of power and the factory engineers designed it for the amp draw of one battery. The diodes and filters in those units will take a certain continuous load, and maybe a temporary elevated load and still be ok, anything above that may cause it to overheat and fail at some point. I'm betting a small led dome light will draw very little juice, so an extra battery of that size will last probably weeks out in the field. Maybe use a battery tender once in a while to keep it fresh? I'm no electrical engineer, nor did I sleep at a Holiday Inn last night.

One of the things I have done to the FJR is convert everything to LED lights, and HID for the headlights. I have reduced the current loads of most things on the bike which should a

The battery would be charged through a fuseblock, with the fuse set low enough to ensure the bikes systems are kept safe. It will also have a battery tender connection so I can carry a separate charger for that too. I am also considering getting a solar panel for it too, since the trailer as lots of surface area on the lid to mount one. The battery would be dual purpose, one to provide power for the LED light in the trailer and two to act as a back up to the bike's battery if it should fail on the road. The plan is to eventually take this trailer to some very remote places, where you need to have your spares with you.

Obviously, I'll be towing it with something other than the FJR for the remote trips to places such as along the Dempster Hwy to Inuvik, NW Territories, or to Prudhoe Bay, AK. And as I prove out the trailers capabilities and limitations over the next few seasons, I will probably be building 2-3 more as it is refined to make sure that it can take the pounding it will get on those trips and others. But who knows, I may mount up a dual sport tire on the FJR for the gravel roads.

Function and purpose will supersede form and aesthetics on this trailer. The next 2 or three revisions will let me work on the durability and weight savings too.

If the dome light is LED you may never have to charge the battery!

IIRC I think it uses a whole 3 watts of power...

 

[Auburn]

Got a chance to give it a short test pull. Went about 20 mile through twisty roads. Top speed about 60, . I put about 100 lbs in it. Headed out 2up, (needed to test the intercom system). It pulled very straight. I will need to source smaller air shocks. Progressive makes the 416 series air shock that is for many different motorcycles. There are many trailer manufacturers who use this shock. A little spendy at $400 a pair (best price I could find), but they are rebuildable, which has a certain appeal, as I could carry a rebuild kit with me on long trips as part of my spares kit.

Further testing to come as I get a chance. Next will be fully load with my camp gear and a full ice chest.

 

[audiowize]

I have some progressive 416's on my Goldwing, they are very decent for the price.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

Nice work! Now the hard part will be not loading it with 1000 lbs, lol. I think I must have had something close to 200-250 lbs in mine when I went to NAFO even though it was just a roof box! One thing I learned on mine is that you need to have the axles exactly in line with each other (zero toe). I nearly wore out the tires on mine in the 3000 miles I put on it going to NAFO because they have a very slight toe-in when fully loaded. Now I have to cut it apart and re-weld it so I can sell it.

 

[Auburn]

Nice work! Now the hard part will be not loading it with 1000 lbs, lol. I think I must have had something close to 200-250 lbs in mine when I went to NAFO even though it was just a roof box! One thing I learned on mine is that you need to have the axles exactly in line with each other (zero toe). I nearly wore out the tires on mine in the 3000 miles I put on it going to NAFO because they have a very slight toe-in when fully loaded. Now I have to cut it apart and re-weld it so I can sell it.

I have been very careful measuring the toe to make sure it is zero. Road testing will tell how accurate I have been.

 

[Auburn]

I have some progressive 416's on my Goldwing, they are very decent for the price.

The shock was still too heavy for the trailer, but the good thing is the Progressive has two springs in it (80/120) which is their lightest springs. Re built a shock compressor and removed the 120 spring. Now it sits down about 1.5" from fully extended while it is unloaded. I am hoping that when loaded it will compress to the point some air will be needed to carry the weight. Worst case, I could put a pair of the Bushtec air shocks on which have no springs at all as they are the same length when both are extended. I prefer to have the spring carry some of the load and use the air to fine tune the suspension.

Next steps are to get it weighed and through the State Patrol licensing. Then lots of road testing.

 

[RossKean]

Your fabrication skills are far in excess of mine! While the trailer is pretty beefy, I do not expect the FJR will have any difficulty towing it. With the weight and the fact that aerodynamics may not be optimum, I am wondering how it will affect fuel economy compared to the Bushtec. It will be interesting to see - at least you will have carrying capacity for lots more gas.

Out of complete ignorance with respect to MC trailers, why do you use tires with a rounded profile as opposed to a standard tire you might find on a utility trailer? I would guess that the standard tires and wheels would be substantially cheaper.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

Auburn, what is your attachment to the air shocks? I used springs from the rack and roll trailer on my build and I can pick up one side of it and drop it and it won't even bounce, at all. The hydraulic damping and correct spring selection ate the key. I paid about $120 for the pair if I remember correctly so they were the cheapest I could find too on addition to having the correct spring rate. The HD ones would probably work for you if you wanted to go that route.

 

[Northwoods Snowman]

Auburn, what is your attachment to the air shocks? I used springs from the rack and roll trailer on my build and I can pick up one side of it and drop it and it won't even bounce, at all. The hydraulic damping and correct spring selection ate the key. I paid about $120 for the pair if I remember correctly so they were the cheapest I could find too on addition to having the correct spring rate. The HD ones would probably work for you if you wanted to go that route.