Yes, T6 is full synthetic. I'm not sure if the other Rotellas are JASO-MA certified. If they are not, that would probably be the reason for problems if used.
Regardless, hopefully the OP gets this figured out!
Trouble down shifting on the Gen3
- Thread starter 08FJR4ME
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Regardless, hopefully the OP gets this figured out!
s.ga.rider
Well-known member
I had to do a soak on my 2014 after about 5k miles. It was improved for a few thousand then went back to rough shifting. After around 18k miles she started shifting smooth. I dont know if it took that long to break in or what but im finally happy with the shifting.
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
So today I was doing maintenance on the 2008 FJR. So I took the 2015 to the post office. Well this old lady was taking her time to turn into the post office and then she stops to wave me to go. I was already stopped so I went to take off and the bike lurched and died and I had all I could do to keep it up. Looked down and I was in 3'rd gear. Sum Bitch now this bike is pissing me off. I tapped the shifter several times but evidently it never made it all the way to first cause it's sutch a bitch to down shift now. That's it! it's staying parked until its fixed.
GRRRRRRRRRRRRR,
GRRRRRRRRRRRRR,
dcarver
Well-known member
You have an issue. Well, maybe I should say ANOTHER issue. Welcome to my world..
It's not that complicated, really. Just fix it!
..there! Glad I could help...
..and that's why I love my 2006, 235k miles KrZy8.
.....although the 2013 I got from BeemerDon's IS a pretty sweet ride.. and doesn't have the shifting issues you are having.
.......have you read any good oil threads lately?
%
It's not that complicated, really. Just fix it!
..there! Glad I could help...
..and that's why I love my 2006, 235k miles KrZy8.
.....although the 2013 I got from BeemerDon's IS a pretty sweet ride.. and doesn't have the shifting issues you are having.
.......have you read any good oil threads lately?
%
Last edited by a moderator:
blchandl2
Well-known member
Is the shifter lever hitting the casting that wraps under it? Have you adjusted the lever position?
I'd try breaking in the plates again.
Start the engine and get it warm.
Press down hard on the brake pedal.
Shift into 1st gear.
Open the throttle to 1/4 turn.
Release the clutch lever for about 1/2 second.
Repeat 8 to 10 times.
If the engine stalls, restart it, let it idle for a minute or two then abuse the clutch plates again.
Start the engine and get it warm.
Press down hard on the brake pedal.
Shift into 1st gear.
Open the throttle to 1/4 turn.
Release the clutch lever for about 1/2 second.
Repeat 8 to 10 times.
If the engine stalls, restart it, let it idle for a minute or two then abuse the clutch plates again.
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HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Is your shifter returning to center? Somethings up, obviously.
That's a good question. If the lever doesn't spring backup to center it won't grab the next down shift. That may explain why it only affects downshifts too.
RossKean
Well-known member
Agreed - If the lever isn't springing back to the middle position, it certainly won't work. It could be because the lever or linkages are still sticky (or pivot over tightened). It could also be a spring - seems to me this has happened to a few others. Does it downshift OK if you lift the lever to the middle position between shifts? How does it feel if you try shifting by hand with the bike running and on the centerstand?
tempest766
Well-known member
I moved my clutch lever out two stops to position 3 and my shifting is much smoother, but I don't like the longer pull. I guess ya can't have it all though.
Something other than the clutch --
You can easily verify if something else is the problem.
Put the bike on the center-stand. Don't start the engine.
With your left hand operate the shift pedal. With your right hand jog the rear wheel back and forth.
You can easily shift through the gears without using the clutch with this technique. If you can go up and down through the gears successfully using this simple procedure you've eliminated everything except the clutch and its hydraulic actuator.
You can also verify if the shift pedal is crisply springing back to its resting position after each shift.
Make sure that the mark on the shift pedal is between the upper and lower marks on the frame. Adjust the shift rod if needed.
You can easily verify if something else is the problem.
Put the bike on the center-stand. Don't start the engine.
With your left hand operate the shift pedal. With your right hand jog the rear wheel back and forth.
You can easily shift through the gears without using the clutch with this technique. If you can go up and down through the gears successfully using this simple procedure you've eliminated everything except the clutch and its hydraulic actuator.
You can also verify if the shift pedal is crisply springing back to its resting position after each shift.
Make sure that the mark on the shift pedal is between the upper and lower marks on the frame. Adjust the shift rod if needed.
JAB
Well-known member
I'm going to suggest that you play around with adjusting the foot shift lever position. When I first got my FJR, I experienced some trouble with upshifting to certain gears, but very easy down shifting. I adjusted the foot lever and found that I had moved it too much. This caused the problem to reverse. I found that there was a sweet spot where both up and down shits worked well. It's an easy thing to play around with and it may help your issue.
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
Update,
Pulled the shift linkage off again. Adjusted the shifter location. Greased everything again. Went for a spin down the road. NOT! bike still doesn't shift any better and in fact it seems to be getting worse. When I came to the end of the road the bike was shuttering and still kept pulling me into the main road. Almost stalled out the engine. It wasn't releasing out of gear. Clutch was pulled in the whole time. The gasket will be here tomorrow for the clutch removal. I don't know why but I am thinking it is worse than just a clutch soak. I am not getting a good feeling about all this. When I pulled in the garage there was a slight burning smell coming off the bike. Never smelt anything before today. Should I even bother with the clutch soak? I blead the clutch line when I got back but have fear of taking it out again. The dealer is an hour away in RI for any warranty work. Ma Ma Yamaha is pissing me off by shutting down my local dealer because there weren't meeting the sales quota. Bastards, They have been around for eon's since I was a kid. This world is starting to suck because it seems everything is centered around profit and making as much money as possible. The peeps at the top are just getting to greedy.
A BMW 1200 GS is looking better all the time.
Rant off,
Dave
Pulled the shift linkage off again. Adjusted the shifter location. Greased everything again. Went for a spin down the road. NOT! bike still doesn't shift any better and in fact it seems to be getting worse. When I came to the end of the road the bike was shuttering and still kept pulling me into the main road. Almost stalled out the engine. It wasn't releasing out of gear. Clutch was pulled in the whole time. The gasket will be here tomorrow for the clutch removal. I don't know why but I am thinking it is worse than just a clutch soak. I am not getting a good feeling about all this. When I pulled in the garage there was a slight burning smell coming off the bike. Never smelt anything before today. Should I even bother with the clutch soak? I blead the clutch line when I got back but have fear of taking it out again. The dealer is an hour away in RI for any warranty work. Ma Ma Yamaha is pissing me off by shutting down my local dealer because there weren't meeting the sales quota. Bastards, They have been around for eon's since I was a kid. This world is starting to suck because it seems everything is centered around profit and making as much money as possible. The peeps at the top are just getting to greedy.
A BMW 1200 GS is looking better all the time.
Rant off,
Dave
Last edited by a moderator:
Donal
Well-known member
When you bled the clutch line did you get any air bubbles out?
It's beginning to sound like the clutch is not opening properly.
I think you have a master cylinder problem.
When my bike (2008, 157,000 miles) gets hot, the clutch almost goes away, i.e. when I pull it in the bike doesn't want to downshift, and finding neutral is very iffy, and the bike doesn't want to drop back to idle cleanly. Once it starts doing this, it needs a bleed to get the clutch back to normal. On the road, when I stop for the night, I pump the clutch ten times or so and tie the lever back. Then I beat on the clutch line to make any air move up to the handlebar. The clutch will behave until the bike gets hot again (over 7 bars, and the fans come on). The bike may go thousands of miles with no problem - until it gets toasty again.
When I bought the bike, the clutch plates engaged about 1/4 inch from the bar, and I got used to it, and was happy. After I REALLY bled the system last year (when the problem showed up), the engagement point moved to 1/2 inch from the bar. It really messed up my u-turns, but I liked that free play.
Obviously, on my bike, air is getting into the line from somewhere and causing the problem. I have a master cylinder rebuild kit that I will install in the next few days in hopes that it will cure the problem.
When my bike (2008, 157,000 miles) gets hot, the clutch almost goes away, i.e. when I pull it in the bike doesn't want to downshift, and finding neutral is very iffy, and the bike doesn't want to drop back to idle cleanly. Once it starts doing this, it needs a bleed to get the clutch back to normal. On the road, when I stop for the night, I pump the clutch ten times or so and tie the lever back. Then I beat on the clutch line to make any air move up to the handlebar. The clutch will behave until the bike gets hot again (over 7 bars, and the fans come on). The bike may go thousands of miles with no problem - until it gets toasty again.
When I bought the bike, the clutch plates engaged about 1/4 inch from the bar, and I got used to it, and was happy. After I REALLY bled the system last year (when the problem showed up), the engagement point moved to 1/2 inch from the bar. It really messed up my u-turns, but I liked that free play.
Obviously, on my bike, air is getting into the line from somewhere and causing the problem. I have a master cylinder rebuild kit that I will install in the next few days in hopes that it will cure the problem.
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
It has commenced, Day 1 disassembly
These came out all stuck together
After cleaning
Tomorrow, Day 2 Assembly, Happy independence day!
Dave
These came out all stuck together
After cleaning
Tomorrow, Day 2 Assembly, Happy independence day!
Dave
RossKean
Well-known member
Those discs are drier than a popcorn fart! Could you tell how it was (or wasn't) working after you got the cover off?
In addition to the oil soak for the disks, I think I would lightly scour the steels using a Scotchbrite pad and motor oil and get any crud off them.
The top disc looks dirty/contaminated. I would go after that one with a stiff-bristle brush and more motor oil (or replace it). Were the discs stuck to the steels?
Some crud in the basket to get rid of as well.
Out of curiosity, do you run the oil level close to the top of the sight glass with the bike on the center stand??
In addition to the oil soak for the disks, I think I would lightly scour the steels using a Scotchbrite pad and motor oil and get any crud off them.
The top disc looks dirty/contaminated. I would go after that one with a stiff-bristle brush and more motor oil (or replace it). Were the discs stuck to the steels?
Some crud in the basket to get rid of as well.
Out of curiosity, do you run the oil level close to the top of the sight glass with the bike on the center stand??
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
Don't know if you noticed, but when you reassemble, align all those pink dots and put that tab between the two little arrows (8:30 o'clock in your fifth picture, 6 o'clock in my picture below).
(Click on image for larger view)
Don't ask me why, but that's what I've read on the internet, so it must be true.
(Click on image for larger view)
Don't ask me why, but that's what I've read on the internet, so it must be true.
Don't believe there's any significance to them being stuck together. After a bike has been parked overnight the discs are always stuck together.
When I back my FJR out of the garage each morning the plates are always lightly stuck together. I put it in 1st gear, pull in the clutch lever, and back it out. Always takes a firm yank to break apart the clutch plates.
You could likely slip the clutch fairly aggressively and all the residue on the plates would be abraded away.
When I back my FJR out of the garage each morning the plates are always lightly stuck together. I put it in 1st gear, pull in the clutch lever, and back it out. Always takes a firm yank to break apart the clutch plates.
You could likely slip the clutch fairly aggressively and all the residue on the plates would be abraded away.
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