Warchild Help Settle The Oil Issue!

[FJRottie]

What's a good source for these copper washers?

Radman told me to go to h......oops wrong conversation.

Seriously, he suggested an auto parts store like UAP/NAPA.

You have many in the US (Pep Boys, Auto Zone etc). Look for copper Brake washers at a place that may sell them.

Bring a crush washer or your drive housing filler bolt to get the right size.

We may have to change rad's name to copperman.

 

[benneyb]

FJRottie,

Easy as that - great. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[donaldb]

Changed oil and filter yesterday (1/2/06), 4 liters w/yamaha filter. Oil in sight glass seems perfect between high and low marks. Cranked it up this morning and rode to work, got about 3 miles down the road and oil indicator light came on. Pulled off on the shoulder, shut bike down, put on center stand, checked for leaks, ck the sight glass, oil level looked good. Turned ignition back on, cranked bike back up, no oil warning light, seemed fine, rode the rest of the way to work w/no problems. Ck'd oil in sight glass again, still perfect, still no leaks. Anybody got any idea why this happened?

 

[redgum]

Hi Donald

I have the same thing happen on my FJR from time to time. Usually happens witihin the first couple of km of starting the engine and after/as I go around a right hand bend.

I beleive it has something to do with the location of the low oil sensor which is activated when the oil moves from one side of the engine to the other. Once the engine is warm there seems to be no issue.

I still check the oil though! One the the little @#!$& will be telling me the truth!!!

 

[donaldb]

Thanx for the reply Redgum. Rode again this morning, temp was mild, in the low to middle 40's, same thing happened again, in the exact same spot of the hwy about 3-4 miles from the house. The area is straight w/very slight upgrade. (Similarities-two mornings in a row in almost the same location, similar cool temps-about 10 or less minutes after morning start up) A little more background this time. My bike has 5k miles on the clock. The first two changes were done w/Yamalube 20w-40 and Yamaha filters. This change at 5k I changed to a synthetic blend Golden Spectro 20w-50 w/Yamaha filter. Now I know that is a high viscosity, however I do not ride in cold weather and here in the south our winters are mild and short and summers are long and hot. I had this conversation w/my local bike guru where I shop, he is knowlegable, informed me that this 20w-50 would be perfectly fine in my feejer since I don't ride in cold weather and would probably be good for it in our oppressive heat of summer. I wonder now if it may be a bit heavy for the oil pump until the engine/oil warms up. First time did not overly concern me but this second occurence, in as many days has me a bit concerned. On the way home from work yesterday afternoon the light did not come on, it was a bit warmer then, late afternoon in the low 70's so the oil would naturally be a bit lighter at start up and warm up. I likely will not be riding the bike for the next several days because of an approaching cold front, so I will have some time to change out this oil and go back to a thiner viscosity. So, people HELP me decide if you think this 20w-50 is to heavy for the pump, oil level is perfect in the sight glass and still no leaks. The bike runs like it likes the oil, it seems to run smoother and the gear box definately likes this oil better, I noticed a REAL difference in shifting but I don't want to run the chance of damaging my pump or motor. U think maybe it's too early to tell? ride it a little longer? Speak up please! thanx-bd :huh:

 

[radman]

Dude, 20w-50 is a 20 weight oil with the properties of a 50 weight hot, so it's no different on a cold start than the Yami recommended stuff (20w-40). If a synthetic, even better. Like any cold engine, keep the work load light until warm, ideally no freeway type or heavy load riding until the stat has opened.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

radman  Posted on Jan 4 2006, 01:25 PM  Dude, 20w-50 is a 20 weight oil with the properties of a 50 weight hot, so it's no different on a cold start than the Yami recommended stuff (20w-40). If a synthetic, even better.

Not quite: the 20, 30, 40 viscosity numbers are rather coarse ratings with quite a range of differences within them. Actual viscosities are measered in centistokes or centipoises at a certain temp. This has been involved in many cases where, for instance, someone has switched brands but stayed with the same viscosity and noticed, for example, less oil consumption. Often, the oil he switched to has a higher viscosity within the broad range of 20, 30, 40 ratings. You're probably right about the synthetic, tho -- I think they generally flow better for any given viscosity (they got their start in high-altitude aircraft and Alaska).

 

[donaldb]

Thanx Rad! so you think I'm ok? I just found it a bit odd that this has not happened before until this last change. I have some Yamalube left over from my last change, of course I had to buy 5 qts so I have most one one qt left. There is still room to add just a touch more.

 

[radman]

When I change, I use the M1 jug to measure out exactly 4 litres, which is the capacity with filter of the bike. If the light comes on using that measure, the sensors boogered. I have never had the light come on using this procedure, and it isn't long before I change again, so I've never had to add any.

 

[donaldb]

The golden spectro came in a 4 liter container, and the oil in the sight glass is perfect between upper and lower marks. I am confident I have the right amount and if this happens again I will have that sensor ck'd, what ever it is I don't like it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :angry:

 

[Geezer]

Keep in mind that the oil light is based on a sensor which detects low oil in the crankcase and does not relate to oil pressure, so the oil pump is not part of the equation. I haven't actually seen the sensor but I picture it working like a float valve and it might have a slight bind in it which is exacerbated by the oil viscosity. Try letting your bike warm up a little longer before riding off and see if that makes a difference.

In any case, I would not be concerned about the oil light coming on as long as you know the oil level is adequate in the sight glass.

Unfortunately, if there is a problem with the oil pressure you may have a serious problem regardless of how much oil is in the crankcase but it will not be indicated by the oil level light.

 

[donaldb]

OK, thanx

 

[donaldb]

Rode to work again this a.m. No oil warning light, woohoo!! I'll take that as a positive along w/the Texas win last night, things are definately turning for the better.

 

[Singleshot]

Yesterday (Mar 19), I took my 2004 out for the first ride of the season in Michigan. I let it warm up a little in the driveway then headed on out. About a half mile from the house, the oil light came on (this has never happened before). I pulled off on the shoulder and stopped the engine. Then I restarted the engine and the light went out. I rode about another half mile and it came on again. This time I pulled into a parking lot, stopped the engine and checked the sight glass. The oil level was fine. The oil was clean as it was changed last November and the bike was parked in a 60 degree heated building until yesterday. After leaving the parking lot, I rode the bike for about 60 miles (some interstate, some surface roads) and the light never came on again. The bike has 9,734 miles on the clock. The oil and filter has been changed four times since I bought the bike new. I suspect the connector on the oil level switch pig tail may need cleaning or the oil level switch may need to be replaced. Has anyone installed an oil pressure gauge on their FJR?

 

[Ignacio]

And I thought this thread was going to die finally. It made it nearly 3 months.

New guy Singleshot: Let me make the suggestion that this thread started about oil changing and your question is about a oil pressure gauges. I know the conversation drifted to pressure, but suggest posting your question (because it's very valid and either not discussed before or I can't remember hearing it for a long time) in a new thread under Technical Discussion.

I'll even say that I haven't heard of anybody doing it, but sounds like a great project.

I'm going to close this thread down to keep us from picking at scabs. If anybody has an issue with that feel free to PM me.