What did you do to your FJR today?

[torch]

I searched for and found the thread for the Barbarian Jumper Mod. The links to the description of what it actually is no longer work. So, what is the BJM?

The Barbarian Jumper Mod is a hardware mod that relocates (or adds) a jumper between two terminals of the ECU, unlocking the onboard idle fuel mixture adjustment, as is possible in the European and Australasian versions. The possibility was the subject of much discussion when these bikes hit North American shores and we discovered Yamaha had disabled that function in ours.

Many, many, many people experimented with it after the jumper was reverse-engineered and the general consensus was that increasing the factory "CO" value by between 5 and 7 points on each cylinder produced the best results, fattening the emissions-mandated lean setting just enough to help the off-idle performance and smoothness. It doesn't really do anything at higher RPM, or when the O2 sensor(s) warm up enough to put the system in closed loop mode.

Yamaha soon learned what we were up to, and made a few half-hearted attempts to foil us. On the later Gen 1 models, they stopped supplying the wire, on the Gen 2 they changed the pin locations. But the community quickly figured out the details almost as fast as the changes were made.

Why Barbarian? I named it primarily in honour of Tom Barber, who first noticed the odd wire in the European wiring schematic. But remember that in 2002, we had to plunk down a deposit, order the bike sight unseen and be happy with what Mother Yamaha decided to eventually deliver. As I mapped out the pin functions with a scope one cold winter night in an unheated garage, I was inspired by the sense of overcoming arbitrary rules -- we were Barbarians at the gates of civilization, hacking the expensive machines we waited so long to own.

 

[RossKean]

and the general consensus was that increasing the factory "CO" value by between 5 and 7 points on each cylinder produced the best results

I think the BJM had a greater impact on the earlier bikes. I played with settings on my 2011 when I had an idle issue and found settings didn't make much of a difference. My "factory" settings were 0,0,0,0 whereas earlier bikes often had numbers that varied between cylinders (factory optimized?). I believe Yamaha improved mapping on later bikes...

 

[MotoMike]

I think the BJM had a greater impact on the earlier bikes. I played with settings on my 2011 when I had an idle issue and found settings didn't make much of a difference. My "factory" settings were 0,0,0,0 whereas earlier bikes often had numbers that varied between cylinders (factory optimized?). I believe Yamaha improved mapping on later bikes...

It's interesting that you mention an "idle issue" on your 2011. I, too, have an "idle issue" (the bike runs slightly rough at idle, which is set at 1100 rpm) on my 2007 and I have had that "idle issue" since I bought the bike 3 years ago. I put in new spark plugs, have done a couple of throttle body syncs, checked the valve clearances (all within spec) and tried using Sea Foam to clean the fuel injectors. The "idle issue" continues. When I stumbled upon the Barbarian Jumper Mod, I thought that might be the answer. Apparently not. Unless the "idle issue" on your 2011 is not the same "idle issue" as the one I have on my 2007.

 

[MotoMike]

This

-Steve

Thanks, Steve. Interesting reading.

 

[RossKean]

It's interesting that you mention an "idle issue" on your 2011. I, too, have an "idle issue" (the bike runs slightly rough at idle, which is set at 1100 rpm) on my 2007 and I have had that "idle issue" since I bought the bike 3 years ago. I put in new spark plugs, have done a couple of throttle body syncs, checked the valve clearances (all within spec) and tried using Sea Foam to clean the fuel injectors. The "idle issue" continues. When I stumbled upon the Barbarian Jumper Mod, I thought that might be the answer. Apparently not. Unless the "idle issue" on your 2011 is not the same "idle issue" as the one I have on my 2007.

My idle issue was an uneven "lumpy" idle. It is a 2011 that I bought used three years ago (fewer than 60,000 km on it when I got it). Previous owner had a "bad gas" issue and ended out getting the fuel injectors cleaned/refurbished. The bike had not been ridden much in the year or two before I bought it. Idle eventually fixed itself - all I did was use Seafoam and Yamaha Ring Free for a while (a few thousand km). (I suspect there was some residual crud in the system.) It gradually improved and is now completely normal. Behavior did not affect normal running, power or mileage. BJM didn't make any discernable difference (went to +5 for each cylinder).

I bought a lightly used fuel rail plus injectors on ebay for cheap and planned to install but the issue cleared itself up before I got around to it. You might want to consider getting your injectors serviced - not terribly expensive. If you are stuck, I could loan you my spare set (with rail) and you could try them before you buy new or pay to service yours. I don't want to sell them (spares) but you could give them a try as long as I get them back. Let me know if you are interested and you can pick them up from me (or I could drop them off next time I am in the area).

This is how mine sounded...



Edit: I tried idle speed anywhere from 1000-1200 without much change. Bike does behave better with it at 1150 rpm or so. I had a cracked rubber cap on one of the throttle synch ports and thought that might have been the cause but not a big difference after replacing it (maybe slight). Worth checking those in any case.

If you are interested in a Power Commander III USB, I have one that was on my '07. If the idle issue is due to lean conditions, the PC III might help (and help with abrupt throttle). Depending on the mapping, it might be a bit detrimental to fuel economy. (Can discuss cost.)
(I also have a set of Leo Vince aftermarket slip-ons that I would let go for a very reasonable price (won't ship them).)
Let me know.

Edit: If you haven't done so, set your idle to around 1150 rpm.
Nevermind - I just noticed you said it was set at 1100 - should be OK.

 

[Mcarver351]

I replaced my front and rear tires that I had mounted at Cycle Gear. They did a great job. They didn't put a mark in my black wheels. They used black weights to balance the rims, which made them disappear and I had black 90 degree valve stems installed. They make it much easier to put air in the tires, especially if you have to do it using a gas station's air hose. I then decided to synchronize my throttle bodies. It is an easy task and only the 4th cyclinder was slightly below the other three. It is a 2014 with only 7k miles. If you watch two wheel obsession's video on synchronizing the throttle bodies, he said you can do it without totally removing the gas tank. I agree with him if you don't have to make any adjustments but good luck getting to the adjustment screws if you need to make an adjustment with the tank still on.

 

[Dodger]

I did the throttle bodies on both my 2006 and 2017 and did not fully remove the tank. Biggest fear was dropping a rubber nipple. Easy DIY but not sure if it really made much difference as there was not a lot of deviation.

 

[RossKean]

I did the throttle bodies on both my 2006 and 2017 and did not fully remove the tank. Biggest fear was dropping a rubber nipple. Easy DIY but not sure if it really made much difference as there was not a lot of deviation.

Yeah, the tank just needs to be propped up at the front - just have to loosen the bolt at the rear of the tank. I only do TBS if I have done major work to the bike (2011); such as a valve check/adjustment. Never off by much and doesn't make much difference in terms of idle or performance.

I haven't lost one of the rubber nipples but have lost one of the little wire clips that holds them on!

 

[MotoMike]

My idle issue was an uneven "lumpy" idle. It is a 2011 that I bought used three years ago (fewer than 60,000 km on it when I got it). Previous owner had a "bad gas" issue and ended out getting the fuel injectors cleaned/refurbished. The bike had not been ridden much in the year or two before I bought it. Idle eventually fixed itself - all I did was use Seafoam and Yamaha Ring Free for a while (a few thousand km). (I suspect there was some residual crud in the system.) It gradually improved and is now completely normal. Behavior did not affect normal running, power or mileage. BJM didn't make any discernable difference (went to +5 for each cylinder).

I bought a lightly used fuel rail plus injectors on ebay for cheap and planned to install but the issue cleared itself up before I got around to it. You might want to consider getting your injectors serviced - not terribly expensive. If you are stuck, I could loan you my spare set (with rail) and you could try them before you buy new or pay to service yours. I don't want to sell them (spares) but you could give them a try as long as I get them back. Let me know if you are interested and you can pick them up from me (or I could drop them off next time I am in the area).

This is how mine sounded...



Edit: I tried idle speed anywhere from 1000-1200 without much change. Bike does behave better with it at 1150 rpm or so. I had a cracked rubber cap on one of the throttle synch ports and thought that might have been the cause but not a big difference after replacing it (maybe slight). Worth checking those in any case.

If you are interested in a Power Commander III USB, I have one that was on my '07. If the idle issue is due to lean conditions, the PC III might help (and help with abrupt throttle). Depending on the mapping, it might be a bit detrimental to fuel economy. (Can discuss cost.)
(I also have a set of Leo Vince aftermarket slip-ons that I would let go for a very reasonable price (won't ship them).)
Let me know.

Edit: If you haven't done so, set your idle to around 1150 rpm.
Nevermind - I just noticed you said it was set at 1100 - should be OK.

Thanks for the offer. I will go the Seafoam route for now.

 

[RossKean]

Thanks for the offer. I will go the Seafoam route for now.

Yamaha Ring Free is pretty good stuff as well. Injectors are available any time, if you want to give them a try.
Does yours sound anything like the vid I posted, above?

Note: It is common for the FJR to sound like it misses occasionally while idling. Not exactly a rough idle.

 

[torch]

It's interesting that you mention an "idle issue" on your 2011. I, too, have an "idle issue" (the bike runs slightly rough at idle, which is set at 1100 rpm) on my 2007 and I have had that "idle issue" since I bought the bike 3 years ago. I put in new spark plugs, have done a couple of throttle body syncs, checked the valve clearances (all within spec) and tried using Sea Foam to clean the fuel injectors. The "idle issue" continues. When I stumbled upon the Barbarian Jumper Mod, I thought that might be the answer. Apparently not. Unless the "idle issue" on your 2011 is not the same "idle issue" as the one I have on my 2007.

My brother bought a gently used 2006 that came with a bit of a rough idle and a slight hesitation from idle. I did the Barbarian Jumper mod on it (together with a TB sync of course) and it smoothed it all right out. It doesn't cost anything, may fix your problem and is fully reversible, so it's worth a try. The only difference is that in the 06 and 07 models, the wire from pin 23 must be moved to the pin 25 location instead of moving pin 27 to 25.

In 2008, Yamaha changed the ramp angle of the throttle cam and possibly remapped the ECU making the off-idle transition much smoother. My understanding (not having tried it personally) is that the BJM has little or no effect from 08 on up.

 

[RossKean]

My understanding (not having tried it personally) is that the BJM has little or no effect from 08 on up.

It made very little difference to my 2011, for sure. I am pretty sure that Yamaha improved the "map" after 2007 - perhaps more than one change before the end of the Gen II run. I never found that TBS made as much difference in Gen II as it did for Gen I bikes but every little bit helps.

Note: As Torch says, the BJM is fully reversible - but make sure you record the original settings before making changes.

 

[2GENAE]

My 2008 AE is smooth off idle slow speed maneuvers no problem. Yamaha did remap in 2008. We raised the values up some like the BJM no difference. We took several turns out of the top throttle body spring, this made the throttle MUCH easier to turn and helped off idle maneuvers making slight throttle increases easier.

 

[MotoMike]

Yamaha Ring Free is pretty good stuff as well. Injectors are available any time, if you want to give them a try.
Does yours sound anything like the vid I posted, above?

Note: It is common for the FJR to sound like it misses occasionally while idling. Not exactly a rough idle.

Yup, exactly that: it sounds like it misses occasionally while idling. It does not sound quite like the vid you posted.

 

[two wheels]

I extended my down shift toggle,I hated the way I had to contort my hand and wrist to make contact with that short lil piece of well you know.I used some UHMW epoxy and a counter set set screw.This FIX also helps in preventing hitting the horn button.

 

[mcatrophy]

I extended my down shift toggle,I hated the way I had to contort my hand and wrist to make contact with that short lil piece of well you know.I used some UHMW epoxy and a counter set set screw.This FIX also helps in preventing hitting the horn button.

I never use the thumb for changing down, I just use my forefinger to flick the one part of the switch forwards or backwards. Hand remains perfectly on the grip..

Totally second nature after a few changes, and it's very rapid going between up- and down- changes; your hand doesn't move at all, just your finger.

 

[nimnifnof]

Not today, but yesterday. Put some new shoes on her. Replaced the worn out Dunlop Sportmax RS III's with a pair of RS IV. Such an underrated tire. Good in the wet, super in the corners and long lasting. But you don't really hear much about them. I don't know how long the RS III's were on as I got the bike used with them already on. I know I put another 10k on them before they went. The front was still good, but probably only had another 2k miles in them so I went with a new matched set of the RS IV's. They were surprisingly about $75 cheaper at my local dealer than anywhere I could find online.

 

[RossKean]

Replaced the worn out Dunlop Sportmax RS III's with a pair of RS IV

I have been mostly using Roadsmart III for the last several years. Currently running Bridgestone T32 GT but I think I will go back to the RS IV the next set.

I have been doing a bit of reading and they claim around 25% better mileage as well as improved performance - sounds great.
I am, however, puzzled about different "versions" of this tire. I ran across a two different articles that said there was an "SP" and a "GT" version - the GT being for heavier bikes.
https://www.tiretechnologyinternati...oadsmart-iv-for-sport-touring-motorbikes.html
I don't see any mention of this in on-line catalogs or even on the Dunlop site.
https://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/tire-line/sportmax-roadsmart-iv/
In fact, they say
The Roadsmart IV is another big step in the evolution of Dunlop’s sport-touring line, which includes the now value-priced Roadsmart III. With the addition of the Roadsmart IV, Dunlop has created the most market-driven sport-touring tire range available in sizes to fit a broad variety of motorcycles.
Additionally, Dunlop continues to be the only brand offering sport-touring tires that perform on both “Standard” and “GT” bikes, eliminating the need for two separate versions of its sport-touring tires.

I wonder if this distinction is new or if the articles I read were wrong?
FWIW, I sent a query to Dunlop but haven't heard back...

Edit: I found some stuff on the Dunlop European site that appears to contradict the quote (above) from the North America site.

https://www.dunlop.eu/en_gb/motorcycle/tires/roadsmart-iv--sxrsmart4.html

• Greatly enhanced wet performance compared to RoadSmart III
• Low steering effort and ultra-fast warm-up
• GT specs for reduced steering effort on heavier bikes**
• SP versions for enhanced stability and feedback on sportier and fitmentsensitive models***
• Strip-wind tread application for key sizes for reduced tread wear
• Rear 160/60 ZR 18 available from April 2022

*Versus predecessor, RoadSmart III **GT version tuned for enhanced agility. Please consult fitment guide for recommended fitment per model ***SP version offering augmented high speed stability. Please consult fitment guide for recommended fitment per model


This site recommends the "GT" for the FJR...

 

[infrared]

Not today, but yesterday. Put some new shoes on her. Replaced the worn out Dunlop Sportmax RS III's with a pair of RS IV. Such an underrated tire. They were surprisingly about $75 cheaper at my local dealer than anywhere I could find online.

Nimnifnof,

How old were those new tires, when you bought them? Sometimes the sellers are dumping old stock at a discount.
Tire age decoder - click the link, and scroll down:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11

 

[RossKean]

How old were those new tires, when you bought them? Sometimes the sellers are dumping old stock at a discount.

Can't be very old since Dunlop just released the Roadsmart IV tires last year...
Possibly manufactured before the release date (they have to build inventory) but they can't be old enough to be a concern.