What did you do to your FJR today?

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The each bar mounts with a bolt and a nut. The bolt acts as a pivot anchor. The nut, its the main hold down. The nut threads on to a 'movable' stud. That stud.. she only pivots, but you need the base to move. But she doesn't move.
Between the immovable stud, and the lack of freeplay in the wiring/hoses, all conspired against me in what appeared to be a 15 minute job. I finally got everything lined up and the dowels in their proper holes in a hot garage on a beautiful sunny day.

Net result was moving the bars closer to me by a whopping 1/4" Guess I won't need helibars now.
Do both sides at once, then it all moves easily. Five minutes. And two of those was getting the tools ;) .

 
Did the 1st engine oil/filter & final drive fluid change, surprised to find that the drain bolts & filter weren't put on by some gorilla, went smoothly!

Noticed the crush washer on the oil drain plug was installed the opposite of the final drive plugs-replaced them as I found them.

 
I installed the Cal Sci windscreen! Huge difference over stock. It was amazing to be in a quiet pocket with no wind noise.
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It almost didn't feel right. I went for a decent ride put 150 miles on it, took it up to speed to see how it would handle. Looks like it will hold! I'm 6' and got the XL
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Changed the coolant. It didn't need changing, but I didn't know that beforehand.

I used the "let it all run out then fill it up with fresh" method. My bad :D

Also ...

Fitted a USB Charger to the "D" Panel:

DSCN0098-L.jpg


 
Changed the coolant. It didn't need changing, but I didn't know that beforehand.
I used the "let it all run out then fill it up with fresh" method. My bad :D

Also ...

Fitted a USB Charger to the "D" Panel:

[img=[URL="https://twigg.smugmug.com/Motorcyling/2005-Yamaha-FJR1300A/i-3zBhCdX/0/L/DSCN0098-L.jpg%5D"]https://twigg.smugmug.com/Motorcyling/2005-Yamaha-FJR1300A/i-3zBhCdX/0/L/DSCN0098-L.jpg][/URL]
Nice. Can you supply a link/source for the USB?

 
Changed the oil/filter, changed the pumpkin loob.

Then did the TBS for the very first time on the new bike. They were OK but I decided to tweak them a bit since it was all apart.

The Gen III's are pain in ass to get at. The mixture screws face rearwards and require a very small screwdriver to get at, threading it between the fuel rail and the injector wiring harness.

That being said, the bike really seemed to like the attention.

 
I made a mount for my TPWS display. It had been living on my phone mount, but after discovering the "waze" app I need the phone there again.
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I found oil under my 03. It's got over a 100k on it and I've had it 12 years and the original fork seals are leaking. What kind of **** is that.

I thought these were dependable machines. Time to try the seal mate.

 
I found oil under my 03. It's got over a 100k on it and I've had it 12 years and the original fork seals are leaking. What kind of **** is that. I thought these were dependable machines. Time to try the seal mate.
I'm with ya, Ray....I've had an ass-load from this unreliable POS. It's overweight, it's clumsy, it handles like a pig on roller skates. It's unfriendly, unloving and.......

Wait, we talking about the wife, right???

 
Don't forget Howie...It's also HOT. So we are definitely not talking about the wife. Well, maybe my wife, but I donno about yours.

 
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Changed oil and filter last night. Dropped off at Alex's Realtimeindustries to enable him to generate Gen III reflective stickers for the bags and fairing as well as some clear protective film hobbies for the fairing and tank.

 
Received parts and picked up supplies for some upcoming due maintenance:

New front brake light micro-switch (original one just crapped out)

Valve check

New CCT

coolant flush

Brake and clutch flush all around

Spark Plugs

Also, dropped off my spare starter to a local motor shop. I opened it up and it looked pretty clean, bushes hardly worn. But I might as well have it tip top for when I tear down the bike in the next couple of weeks. That should fix my "slow start when hot" condition.

I'll also order a new set of shoes for the big girl in the next month.

Finally, I'm going to get my battery tested and likely replace it. 4 years old.

I'm pre-planning a 4000 mile trip for early September.

Stay thirsty my friends.

 
Starting to get ready for my 2 week Vacation Ride to the Divide, which is only ~10 days away now.

Re-Installed an old Vista Cruise throttle lock, that may come in handy out in the bread basket. A throttle rocker is all I generally need around here.

Installed a new Dark Smoke shield on my Scorpion EXO-900 and mi-lady's HJC SyMax to help in the expected bright sun conditions. Will have to carry along the clear shields in case of crappy weather or eclipses.

Also mounted a Laminar Lip (that I already had) onto the medium sized Cee Bailey windshield that I've been favoring lately. I have the CB mounted on a Rifle tuning block, so it doesn't go up all that high, but I can drive it way down to get a lot of cooling air to the bod. With the LL added, it will extend the shield's max height, in case of inclement weather, and will also help reduce the head buffeting on the endless days of slabdom needed to reach WY and MT, but doesn't really add much height as the lowest position.

The other thing I did was perform yet another flavor of RDCUA TBS. This time I closed the air screws off and synched the 4 throttles using the mechanical linkage screws, paying special attention to how they behaved as I slowly rolled on some throttle (normal per the procedure). But, then instead of opening all 4 air screws up a given amount, I left them closed. At idle there were 2 throttles that had slightly higher vacuum, so I only opened those two bypass air screws enough to get the vacuum down on thoise two down to to the others. Maybe 1/4 turn on each

My thinking was that this would then require me to dial in the largest idle stop increase (remember this is a 1st gen) which would result in the throttle butterflies being more open since less bypass air was being allowed.

It seemed to work well. I really like this state of tune the best of any I've done yet. I have ultra smoothness from idle right up to about 3800 rpm. From 3800 to about 4500 is a bit buzzy. But then from 4500 up to 5500 is ultra smooth again. After that you just get back some of the normal high rpm buzz, some may be the old tires I'm waiting to change until next week. That 4500 - 5500 rpm will be key on the highway as that translates to 80-90 mph in 5th gear on a 1st gen.

 
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