The trunk looks pretty clean. 
What did you do to your FJR today?
- Thread starter CheesyRider
- Start date
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ionbeam
2 FUN
My theory is that clean bright lights attract bugs...If the bugs were cleaned off more often, there'd be no need for all those extra lights.
Perhaps we'd be better off riding with no lights? Keep the bikes cleaner and all...
RossKean
Well-known member
Actually yesterday AND today...
Started out with a spider hunt. In order to have a good look at the spiders and miscellaneous connectors throughout the bike, I decided to strip off ALL the plastic including the gas tank and nose cone. Found the grounding problem in a non-spider connector just in front of the glovebox - very close to the S6 spider that I amputated a couple of years ago. (Cut the wire on both sides of the connector and spliced around it.)
Since everything was out in the open, I decided to do a little maintenance while I was at it. Much easier to work on a bike without all that stuff in the way. In no particular order:
I MUST do something about my Penske rear shock. Nothing has been done to it in probably 70,000 miles. Nobody local to do it and I don't want to be without wheels for a week or two if I sent it away. May have to see if there is someone who will do it while I wait (ride in). Anyone have any ideas who might do this - within a day's ride (600 miles or so) of New Brunswick, (Canada)?
Bike is in desperate need of a bath and I have to get the bug carcasses hosed out of the radiator - however, I probably won't spend 8 hours on it.
Overall, this took me pretty much two long days; about 50% longer than I thought it would take. Glad I was doing it myself instead of paying someone for their time!
Started out with a spider hunt. In order to have a good look at the spiders and miscellaneous connectors throughout the bike, I decided to strip off ALL the plastic including the gas tank and nose cone. Found the grounding problem in a non-spider connector just in front of the glovebox - very close to the S6 spider that I amputated a couple of years ago. (Cut the wire on both sides of the connector and spliced around it.)
Since everything was out in the open, I decided to do a little maintenance while I was at it. Much easier to work on a bike without all that stuff in the way. In no particular order:
- Checked a whole bunch of connectors. Other than the one that was clearly a problem, the only possible issue was corrosion on the connector plug to the accessory socket.
- Cleaned and lubed the windshield mechanism. Slightly increased the tension in the cable.
- Changed oil and filter.
- Changed rear drive fluid.
- Replaced a couple of wheel weights that had fallen off - rim was wiped with (apparently) an oily rag before I put the weights on with the last tire swap.
- Blew the dust out of the air filter - should be good for the rest of the season.
- Did a valve check - adjusted (by sanding) all 8 intake valves. 2 were well below spec (0.12mm), 2 were just under, 2 were right on the minimum @ 0.15 and 2 were comfortably higher (0.18). Set them all to within a short shout of 0.20mm. Since this is the first time I needed to make adjustments in 110,000 miles, I think I will be good for awhile. Valve cover gasket and timing cover gasket survived another session. I was very nervous with removal of the cam to change shims. Ty-wrapping the cam chain to the sprockets made it very easy. I did not have to completely remove the cam or disengage the teeth from the chain - completely free of any drama.
- Changed spark plugs. I had been using the iridium plugs but decided to go with the plain CR8E's. Had a look at the iridiums I took out after maybe 30,000 miles and they didn't look too bad. Center electrode was OK and they were a nice tan color. A bit of deposit on the ground electrode that could be cleaned off. Despite what people have been saying about wasted spark design and half the cylinders sparking backwards, there was little difference between the plugs based upon a cursory look. I think I'll clean these up and throw them back in next time I need to change plugs.
- Coolant replaced (of course). Somehow, I didn't get the large hose on the end of the coolant pipe on securely. Started the bike to run it until the fans came on so I could purge all the air out of the radiator and get it fully topped off. After about 5 minutes, I noticed copious amounts of steam rising from the engine area. The hose let go and the engine (and garage floor) had a nice hot Prestone shower.
- Flushed/bled clutch and brakes. Without a Mityvac or Speedbleeders, it still only takes 40 minutes!
- Replaced fork oil and Sealmated one weepy fork seal - hope it works. Fork oil changing is a messy hateful task and I don't want to have to do it again for awhile.
- was planning to flip brake pads left-to-right to help extend life but these (EBC HH) are wearing remarkably evenly.
- Lubed the clutch pivot and the little brass bushing.
- Put all the plastic back on and only lost one plastic rivet in the process.
I MUST do something about my Penske rear shock. Nothing has been done to it in probably 70,000 miles. Nobody local to do it and I don't want to be without wheels for a week or two if I sent it away. May have to see if there is someone who will do it while I wait (ride in). Anyone have any ideas who might do this - within a day's ride (600 miles or so) of New Brunswick, (Canada)?
Bike is in desperate need of a bath and I have to get the bug carcasses hosed out of the radiator - however, I probably won't spend 8 hours on it.
Overall, this took me pretty much two long days; about 50% longer than I thought it would take. Glad I was doing it myself instead of paying someone for their time!
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SoCalFJR1300
Well-known member
Took her on a nice 230 mile ride through North County San Diego.
twisted
Well-known member
First oil change, at 362 miles, Rotella T6, Purolator PL14610. And, changed final drive fluid, Valvoline Synthetic 75w90. Didn't use new crush washers or torque wrench, and didn't strip drain plug.
El Toro Joe
FYYFF
Well actually it was yesterday. Changed the engine & final drive oils.
El Toro Joe
FYYFF
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fastpappy
Well-known member
Actually yesterday found my rear tire flat. Found a tiny screw in it so I replaced the screw with a plug and blew it back up blew the front up to 38 lbs. Used my home made sealmate on the left fork which I discovered had been leaking then took a little test ride for about and hour or so. topped off the tank and rode her into work this morning.
Bungie
FrostBack #2 - IBA # 44620
Waxed it for the first time (and probably last time) ever. Sure cleans up nice. So I took it for a ride and now it's covered in ass again.
Haha... yes. The dichotomy of bike washing. As soon as you get done polishing it up, you have an insatiable desire to go ride it!
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Bungie
FrostBack #2 - IBA # 44620
The only thing ghey'er than waxing your bike is taking a picture of it after.
The next step on the gheyMeter is making a walk around vid of said ghey bike.
.If you really want to peg the gheyMeter ask to see those pics/vid (and making a spinach dip on a sourdough bun).
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
@ Bungie - Your new bike is already the color of road spooge, so no need for washing and waxing ever.
Come to think of it your last one was silver which doesn't show the dirt much easier.
Coincidence?
Come to think of it your last one was silver which doesn't show the dirt much easier.
Coincidence?
YummYam
Well-known member
Flipped the front brake pads at last. Been following the posts about this for a while and it makes good sense to get the most from them. Noticed only a slight difference in wear and overall still have tons of meat left at just under 17k.
Guess I'm just too gentle with her.
Guess I'm just too gentle with her.
supertankerm60a3
Well-known member
Got into the garage and noticed that the (appearently no longer made) Shook aerodynamic, hard, backpack/tankbag, that looked PERFECT strapped to my rear seat and luggage rack, had blown open and had the lid ripped off. With it, went my Patrol Cap, neck gator and various bits of metal that were stored in it. God looked out for me though, the SDNCO phone stayed in it. WOO HOO!
Then, I pulled the small access panel in front and pulled the flasher loose, then had to pull both the right inner black panels to get it out when it fell down into the dash. Replaced it with and electronic unit rated for the low draw of LED's. Blinkers look normal again.
OH, also pulled off the heated throttle grip and re-glued it to the throttle tube. Hopefully, it will be dry enough to let me ride into work in the morning, I used contact cement this time. Last time, i used silicone, that lasted about 6 months until three days ago when I noticed the wire connection had rotated all the way around to the point it was touching the front brake handle. Hmmm... that ain't right.
Then, I pulled the small access panel in front and pulled the flasher loose, then had to pull both the right inner black panels to get it out when it fell down into the dash. Replaced it with and electronic unit rated for the low draw of LED's. Blinkers look normal again.
OH, also pulled off the heated throttle grip and re-glued it to the throttle tube. Hopefully, it will be dry enough to let me ride into work in the morning, I used contact cement this time. Last time, i used silicone, that lasted about 6 months until three days ago when I noticed the wire connection had rotated all the way around to the point it was touching the front brake handle. Hmmm... that ain't right.
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