what engine oil are you using?

[user 213]

Been using Shell Rotella-T 5W-40 Synthetic but switching to Rotella-T 5W-40 Dino.

Why? Want to save the $4 difference?

 

[YooperDick]

Posted before:

Simplify your life.

I run Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 in my Chev 2500 HD diesel, Kubota BX 24, BMW R1150 RT, Yamaha FJR1300, JD 265, Honda 50 and 15 HP outboards, Chev Suburban, Ariens snowblower, Honda Rubicon 500 ATV, Honda 6500 Generator, and Craftsman 22" lawnmower. Never had a problem and never will.

Now go pleasure the Mrs. and forget about this issue for the rest of your life.

P.S. You may want to keep a small jar under the bed like I do. Comes in handy whenever close tolerances and tight fits are encountered. Not to be used on honeymoons or before the appropriate break-in period has expired.

 

[FLOWBACK]

****, Your post has me wondering who on this forum owns the most engines. Lawn mowers, cars, trucks,4 wheelers, etc.

No hijack intended. <_<

 

[Duezzer]

Kawi 10-40 syn

 

[colin]

eh, why not....

I put in whatever the dude tells me. I really am not overly fussed about it.

Last guy put this stuff in. I have no idea what it is, but it was damn expensive at about 40 bucks a liter. Not terribly happy with that, but he said it was "good". I'm not very good at arguing in Japanese, so bent over and there it is.

Go with whatever makes you feel good about it. Or spend more time thinking about whether or not you need premium fuel....now THAT'S something to lose sleep over.....

 

[Nate]

I use Olive Oil. She doesn't mind.

 

[dexter10]

I use Olive Oil. She doesn't mind.

thanks for all the advice guys...

 

[GalaxyBlue]

And change it every 4000 miles. Frequency trumps fashion when it comes to oil....

Forget all the concern over 10W40 or 20W40 or spending mega dollars for specialty boutique oils. Buy the 15W40 Rotella/Delo/Delvac oils marketed as "diesel oils" and forget about it. The so called diesel oils have much higher levels of the ZDP antiwear additives and no friction modifiers to cause your wet clutch to slip with time and miles.

Classic!

:lol2:

 

[Steve G.]

And change it every 4000 miles. Frequency trumps fashion when it comes to oil....

Forget all the concern over 10W40 or 20W40 or spending mega dollars for specialty boutique oils. Buy the 15W40 Rotella/Delo/Delvac oils marketed as "diesel oils" and forget about it. The so called diesel oils have much higher levels of the ZDP antiwear additives and no friction modifiers to cause your wet clutch to slip with time and miles.

True,

But it also has a much lower sheer viscosity, very important in engines with a shared gearbox. Use API spec CC 15w 40, and be happy, just change it every 1000 miles! Any more than that, and you are using nothing but water.

Steve

 

[Big Daddy]

mobil 1

 

[SkooterG]

True, But it also has a much lower sheer viscosity, very important in engines with a shared gearbox. Use API spec CC 15w 40, and be happy, just change it every 1000 miles! Any more than that, and you are using nothing but water.

Steve

Shhhhhhh!

Don't tell my 180k engine that! After all those miles of Rotella 15W-40 and 4,000+ mile oil changes if you tell it the above it will think I am trying to drown it. :blink:

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

<snip>...But it also has a much lower sheer viscosity

Wha..dat?

just change it every 1000 miles!

That's being pretty wasteful of limited resources (can I have your old oil?... )

Any more than that, and you are using nothing but water.

Actually, under normal use, motor oil tends to oxidize (gets thicker) with time/miles of use -- unless, diluted/contaminated/?.

5-40 eh?? once I run synthetic I need to stick to it right?

The engine is constructed of (mostly) metals and a few rubber/fiber parts -- these parts probably don't care (much?) whether/how the end product was refined or constructed?

The engine may care about the viscosity, tho...?

To quote a sage Forum contributor from the past: "An engine makes its own viscosity."

The heavier the oil you pour-in, the longer it takes for the engine's clearances to squeeze it down to operating viscosity and the hotter the oil will be -- getting there. Of course, the FJR has an oil /coolant heat-exchanger which will try to cool the warmer oil (maybe, tending to raise coolant temps?) -- and all of this tending to rob a small amount of horsepower.

There appears to be little benefit to heavier/thicker oils? Unless, you have an old-fashioned/primitive engine?

But, you're free to use whatever you choose.... B)

 

[Steve G.]

I mean, you guys can use fermented Yak spit if you want, it doesn't really bother me.

And I have no concerns about wasting limited resources. If I was, I'd sell all my bikes and truck, get an electric car, and not talk out of both sides of my mouth.

Steve

 

[Steve G.]

<snip>...But it also has a much lower sheer viscosity

Wha..dat?

just change it every 1000 miles!

That's being pretty wasteful of limited resources (can I have your old oil?... )

Any more than that, and you are using nothing but water.

Actually, under normal use, motor oil tends to oxidize (gets thicker) with time/miles of use -- unless, diluted/contaminated/?.

5-40 eh?? once I run synthetic I need to stick to it right?

The engine is constructed of (mostly) metals and a few rubber/fiber parts -- these parts probably don't care (much?) whether/how the end product was refined or constructed?

The engine may care about the viscosity, tho...?

To quote a sage Forum contributor from the past: "An engine makes its own viscosity."

The heavier the oil you pour-in, the longer it takes for the engine's clearances to squeeze it down to operating viscosity and the hotter the oil will be -- getting there. Of course, the FJR has an oil /coolant heat-exchanger which will try to cool the warmer oil (maybe, tending to raise coolant temps?) -- and all of this tending to rob a small amount of horsepower.

There appears to be little benefit to heavier/thicker oils? Unless, you have an old-fashioned/primitive engine?

But, you're free to use whatever you choose.... B)

Sorry about the spelling mistake, it's shear viscosity https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_viscosity

Steve

 

[Patriot]

Pro Honda HP4 syn/dino blend -- 20W-50

OMG, stop, stop now before ya YAMAHA blows up...

Kawi 10-40 syn

ah man, I need a drink...

at least if it was Friday :blink:

 

[jjsC6]

****, Your post has me wondering who on this forum owns the most engines. Lawn mowers, cars, trucks,4 wheelers, etc.No hijack intended. <_<

Eight (see sig, plus lawnmower, weed eater, and gas blower).

I use Mobil 1 in all the vehicles listed below. The lawn equipment is all 2 stroke.

 

[stevec677]

# of engines??????

Running:

FJR1300A, KLR650, Bandit 1200S, (2) lawn tractors, (2) push mowers, snow blower, weed wacker, leaf blower, (2) chain saws, Chevy Pickup, Chevy Prism, 1970 Duster

Not Running: Honda CB500T, 1971 440 Cuda, 1972 340 Cuda, one 318cu not in a car.

19 or 15 depending on how you count.

 

[Gerry.GEG]

Rotella T synthetic 5-40W.

Read a lot before I jumped on this oil. I also run it in all my cars too.

 

[doctorJ]

Rotella T Synthetic

doctorj

 

[Big Daddy]

Rotella T synthetic 5-40W.
Read a lot before I jumped on this oil. I also run it in all my cars too.

How do you compare Rotella to Royal Purple or Mobil 1? I was just wondering