Yes. Yes I had wondered that. I thought maybe it was just in my mind; that I was fatigued and so became more sensitive. Glad to know that I'm not the only one who feels that.
What's the buzz, tell me what's a happening
- Thread starter Fred W
- Start date
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jmdaniel
Has A Well Known Member
Have nothing to add, Fred, other than this topic is the only thing I hate about my bike, and I've tried a lot of things to fix it. Sucks.
RossKean
Well-known member
With all of the discussions about vibrations over the years, I wonder if different bikes have vastly differing levels of vibration or whether individual riders have different tolerance levels? Personally, it has never really bothered me at any RPM range. I notice it but it isn't even vaguely uncomfortable. (Maybe I'm just not a sensitive guy.)
RossKean
Well-known member
Having said that over a year ago, I am noticing some significant buzzing since I did some work on the bike. I had the radiator off but that doesn't contact anything structural that could cause vibration. I also had both side fairings off and replaced a battery. The only thing I can think of is the fact that the right frame slider has to be removed in order to take off the right side fairing. Maybe I didn't get it back to the sweet spot in terms of torque when I put things back together. Perhaps all the motor mounts have to be loosened and then tightened to correct torque in the recommended sequence. (I have never done this before, and never felt the need - maybe just lucky)
As a first kick at it, I think I'll go for a ride and take a large hex wrench with me...
(spark plugs and TBS are way overdue but that isn't something that changed in the last few days)
hppants
Well-known member
Ross - I can confirm that for both GEN 1 and GEN 3 bikes, loosening all bolts, and tightening in the correct sequence and to the torque spec did reduce (not eliminate) the vibration. I am aware that you have a GEN2 bike, but suspect you will have similar results.
On the Gen 1, I found no appreciable difference when I synchronized the T/B, even through they were all off a decent amount.
On the Gen 1, I found no appreciable difference when I synchronized the T/B, even through they were all off a decent amount.
steveoreno
Well-known member
I had a 95 Connie compared to that bike there is no vibration on my FJR.Maybe try filling the handlebars with Dyna beads?
Compared to most of my bikes current and past, the FJR is smooth as silk. I love it.
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Might be interesting to see if a horizontal linkage between the two handlebars might reduce the vibration amplitude.
The Kawa Versys has vibration dampeners on the handlebar. It's a twin so there's lot of shaking. They rubber mounted the handlebar and the engine to ameliorate the shaking.
https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/171160/2017/KLE650FHF
The Kawa Versys has vibration dampeners on the handlebar. It's a twin so there's lot of shaking. They rubber mounted the handlebar and the engine to ameliorate the shaking.
https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDiagram/171160/2017/KLE650FHF
RossKean
Well-known member
I have had this bike a long time and I have put MANY miles on it. The buzzing is very recent. I expect a re-torque of the engine bolts, new plugs and possibly a TBS will put things back. It has been years since TBS was done. Thinking it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the throttle bodies and clean them up first.
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
I will let you know when I finish my project. Hadn't thought about that possible advantage. Then again it might act as a mulitplier 2X.
Dave
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El Toro
Innocent Bystander
I've owned four Gen 2 FJRs, four Rocket 3 Touring, three K1300S, two G650Xmoto, two modern era Bonneville, and probably a few others of multiple samples. Same with cars and trucks ... four Gen 2 Tundras, two Gen 3 Tundras, etc.
My observation is that, even within a Generation, there are significant sample to sample variations on vibration and noise (NVH in the industry) and on power.
Sometimes you get a good one. Sometimes it's less good.
If you trade a lot, it's all good fun.
My solution to bar vibration? Better gloves and more time off the bars.
My observation is that, even within a Generation, there are significant sample to sample variations on vibration and noise (NVH in the industry) and on power.
Sometimes you get a good one. Sometimes it's less good.
If you trade a lot, it's all good fun.
My solution to bar vibration? Better gloves and more time off the bars.
The handlebars are attached to the upper bracket. So how can one isolate the upper bracket from the frame as much as possible?
Install a rubber washer below the bracket and above the bracket.
The bracket sits atop the steering stem lock washer. Put something between the lock washer and upper bracket to absorb vibration.
A large washer and steering stem nut sits atop the upper bracket. Put something between the upper bracket and washer to absorb vibration.
There's nothing you can do to isolate the upper bracket from the forks.
One might speculate that most of the vibration energy transferred to the upper bracket comes from its connection to the steering stem rather than the forks.
Install a rubber washer below the bracket and above the bracket.
The bracket sits atop the steering stem lock washer. Put something between the lock washer and upper bracket to absorb vibration.
A large washer and steering stem nut sits atop the upper bracket. Put something between the upper bracket and washer to absorb vibration.
There's nothing you can do to isolate the upper bracket from the forks.
One might speculate that most of the vibration energy transferred to the upper bracket comes from its connection to the steering stem rather than the forks.
Uncle Hud
Just another blob of protoplasm using up your oxyg
+1 on Constant Mesh's comment.
My submarine had rubber bushings on every piece of rotating or reciprocally-operating equipment. That was a LOT of rubber, and we checked them all every month. They worked.
My submarine had rubber bushings on every piece of rotating or reciprocally-operating equipment. That was a LOT of rubber, and we checked them all every month. They worked.
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Somehow, I knew you were a bubblehead, Hud. Not that there is anything wrong with that. 
El Toro
Innocent Bystander
***********
My submarine had rubber bushings on every piece of rotating or reciprocally-operating equipment. That was a LOT of rubber, and we checked them all every month. They worked.
***********
That was to reduce the sonar signature.
Stealthy.... one of my cousin's kids is now wrapping up a career as a USN submariner.
My submarine had rubber bushings on every piece of rotating or reciprocally-operating equipment. That was a LOT of rubber, and we checked them all every month. They worked.
***********
That was to reduce the sonar signature.
Stealthy.... one of my cousin's kids is now wrapping up a career as a USN submariner.
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Uncle Hud
Just another blob of protoplasm using up your oxyg
Ding! The rubber bushings kept motor/turbine/pump vibrations (buzz) away from the hull. When the hull vibrates (buzz, buzz), that makes noise.
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
So, the only times I've ever experienced uncomfortable vibration, or vibration that begins to annoy me were specific incidents.
Once it happened after I installed the sliders. I used blue Loctite, and they came loose anyway. Torqued all the mounts in sequence, and it went away, immediately.
Standard OEM plugs. If I take this bike over the plug change interval by 100 miles, the vibration is noticeable. What i's it, every 16k or every 8k? Something like that. I went to iridium plugs and have not had an issue since. That vibration came on fast. Like great before lunch and vibrating after lunch. My bike is very sensative to plug changes. Yet another quirk within a generation, as most are not.
Once it happened after I installed the sliders. I used blue Loctite, and they came loose anyway. Torqued all the mounts in sequence, and it went away, immediately.
Standard OEM plugs. If I take this bike over the plug change interval by 100 miles, the vibration is noticeable. What i's it, every 16k or every 8k? Something like that. I went to iridium plugs and have not had an issue since. That vibration came on fast. Like great before lunch and vibrating after lunch. My bike is very sensative to plug changes. Yet another quirk within a generation, as most are not.
Bill Lumberg
Merica
Mine had no perceptible buzz (as I noted over a year ago in this very thread). Then Yamaha replaced my throttle body assembly. Ah, now I know about this buzz you guys keep talking about.
RossKean
Well-known member
Well. I had the right frame slider off to remove the right side fairing AND my conventional NGK CR8E plugs are WAY overdue for replacement. I wasn't especially worried about the additional vibration, just annoyed. It seems that there is a bit more exhaust/engine noise than usual as well. When I have the fairing off again, perhaps I'll check that the exhaust header bolts are all tight as well as loosen and retorque all of the engine bolts in the correct sequence. (Left side has to come off anyway to replace my cracked expansion tank - might as well do the right side while I'm at it.)
08FJR4ME
-WYNPRO-
If you want to cure the buzz just keep the bike above 95 MPH. It smooths our real nice.
HeHe
HeHe
RossKean
Well-known member
Agreed! - I was noticing that when I was out for a ride last night. Sweet spot was just coming in at 88-90 mph. Smooth as silk after that.If you want to cure the buzz just keep the bike above 95 MPH. It smooths our real nice.
HeHe
(Gets expensive though - performance awards and fuel consumption!!)
