when to switch to synthetic
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Toecutter
What would DoG do?
So, I guess Yamaha could've omitted the oil cooler, then factory-filled with and spec'd synthetic oil. But then what would we use to break the motor in? 
DrQ
Active member
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SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Toecutter
What would DoG do?
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
DrQ
Active member
No pouncing. Still on the steep slope of my learning curve!
Put the first five miles in yesterday in what felt like 5 degree Denver weather. Permagrin is an understatement.
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Toecutter
What would DoG do?
sprint_st
Well-known member
Jestal, you and others have just about convinced me to look into Rotella or Delvac, but Mobil 1 Red Cap was not energy conserving and did not have a starburst. Neither does Gold Cap, its replacement. (just looked at the jug in the garage) They both are 15W50's and have been used in sport bikes and long haulers like Concours for years with no problems. All they have is the API donut with the bottom of the circle empty. I've used the stuff on several bikes and had no clutch problems, BUT they sure improved my evil shifting Connie. Not saying they are the best oil on the planet, just that there is nothing wrong with them (except maybe 50 being a bit thick in an FJR, maybe).
Oil's effect on shifting --
Maybe the three gears in the transmission that slide from side-to-side on the two splined shafts move easier with less resistance with new oil in the engine/transmission. Also maybe the clutch drags more/less when disengaged with new oil versus old depleted oil.
Quite a few components are moving when a gear change is executed -- shift drum, shift forks, gears on splined shafts, etc.
Maybe the three gears in the transmission that slide from side-to-side on the two splined shafts move easier with less resistance with new oil in the engine/transmission. Also maybe the clutch drags more/less when disengaged with new oil versus old depleted oil.
Quite a few components are moving when a gear change is executed -- shift drum, shift forks, gears on splined shafts, etc.
In this transmission three gears do slide on the splined shafts. The engagement dogs are part of/extend out from the three gears. One of the sliding gears is on the upper shaft (main axle). This gear is used in selecting 4th and 5th. The other two sliding gears are on the lower shaft (drive axle). They are used in selecting 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
This transmission is a constant mesh since the sliding gears remained meshed with their paired gears as they slide from side-to-side to engage an adjacent gear set.
You can see a good drawing of the transmission gear sets, etc. on page 2-29 of an earlier service manual. This drawing shows the oil flow schematic for the crankshaft, main axle, and drive axle.
This transmission is a constant mesh since the sliding gears remained meshed with their paired gears as they slide from side-to-side to engage an adjacent gear set.
You can see a good drawing of the transmission gear sets, etc. on page 2-29 of an earlier service manual. This drawing shows the oil flow schematic for the crankshaft, main axle, and drive axle.
sprint_st
Well-known member
Just a quick anecdote. I bought a 2002 Concours new. It had reputation for missed shifts which I found to be true but blamed on the new operator. Syntech was having lots of TV commercials at the time so I fell for them and lo and behold the shifting got better. The good results would only last for about 2K miles then it would return to old habits. After several oil threads caused me to do some research on oil, I came to the conclusion that Syntech was crap (not real sure how good or bad that conclusion was) and I switched to Mobil 1 red cap. Shifting returned to excellent and stayed that way between changes. Not sure what the issue is, especially when you consider that it's a new bike for me to get accustomed to but the FJR sure isn't the crispest shifter I ever operated so I'll probably try some different oils to see what happens.
Castrol's Tection Extra 15w-40 diesel engine oil is my preferred oil for the FJR. I've used Rotella 15w-40 and 5w-40 oil, and Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40 oil. I've used Yamalube and KawaChem motorcycle oils.
https://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7020036
The shifting quality doesn't worsen with the Tection Extra as I near a 4,000 mile change. With all the other oils I notice a change in shifting as the oil accumulates miles.
Don't know what's different about the Tection Extra. It should be an equivalent for the Rotella and Delvac.
It works very, very well with the FJR transmission and clutch.
https://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongene...ntentId=7020036
The shifting quality doesn't worsen with the Tection Extra as I near a 4,000 mile change. With all the other oils I notice a change in shifting as the oil accumulates miles.
Don't know what's different about the Tection Extra. It should be an equivalent for the Rotella and Delvac.
It works very, very well with the FJR transmission and clutch.
Toecutter
What would DoG do?
I buy the Tection Extra at AutoZone. My first (2005) purchase of this oil was a special deal at AutoZone -- three 1-gallon jugs for $15.98.
The price has jumped a bit since then.
The price has jumped a bit since then.
MKO
Well-known member
Wow. This was a great thread. Some of us FNGs are a whole lot more informed. Sometimes the line is blurred between fact and opinion, but it is mostly useful. I think I will be going to Mobil 1 next oil change.
