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WynPro Air Induction Cover Plates

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Dave,

PayPal sent for another set for the 2013. Want to be ready when I pop the tank the

first time.

Thanks,

Gary

 
There has been some discussion about plugging the airbox after removing the plumbing. As my circumstance has my airbox removed, I wanted to share some pictures on what's involved. Also it's been said you can use the existing plug from the stock (deleted) air plumbing. I found this not to be possible on my Gen 2. Of course that is IF I understood correctly. Of course you could use a piece of cut tubing with the plug. - see below.

Here's what I found....

Let's start with the all the stuff that gets removed.

FJR048_4.jpg


The large plugged tube at the end is where you can remove said plug.

FJR049_4.jpg


Grab some pliers and squeeze off the clamp.

FJR050_4.jpg


Use the pliers to pull the plug out.

FJR051_4.jpg


The plug itself is beveled at the end. (Apologies for my poor picture. My aging point and shoot is not good at close ups.)

FJR054_4.jpg


Perhaps if the plastic on the airbox is heated, it would fit. But not cold.

FJR058_4.jpg


FJR059_4.jpg


As mentioned... a trip to your local auto parts store SHOULD find these. An easy $5 and you have 2 plugs that fit perfectly!

FJR062_4.jpg


No chance of sliding out AND should take the heat of the under seat area just fine.

FJR063_4.jpg


Here's the plates installed.

IMG_2157.jpg


(note: Uncompensated remarks follow!
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)

If anyone is on the fence with this product, don't be! It's pretty easy to install, looks great, and doesn't involve any customization or modifying of any parts. Everything can be returned to stock easily.

Dave makes great stuff and it feels good to support those in the community that have put a lot of time into designing and creating stuff for our bikes!

 
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The (cheap) idea is to take the metal plug and stick it into the end of the shortest rubber hose you also removed, then stick the hose onto the big nipple on the air box.

You cap solution works fine too. Just keep checking your cap to be sure that plastic doesn't split. Raw air induced into the clean side of the air box is catastrophic to the engine's health. One forum member had a dealership leave an opening to the air-box that resulted in his engine losing compression very prematurely.

 
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...Also it's been said you can use the existing plug from the stock (deleted) air plumbing. I found this not to be possible on my Gen 2. Of course that is IF I understood correctly. Of course you could use a piece of cut tubing with the plug. - see below.
The large plugged tube at the end is where you can remove said plug.

FJR049_4.jpg
Leave the plug in the hose, cut the hose ~.75" past the end of the plug. Slip the hose with the still intact plug over the nipple on the air box. 'Borrow' a clamp from one of the other hoses if you want to clamp the hose on the nipple.

The plug was not supposed to be pulled out of the hose.

Edit: I see Fred covered it while I was typing. The Forumite that blew his compression was removing the CA emission system and missed a hose. Compound that by living at the end of 6 miles of dirt road and things go down hill PDQ.

 
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Dave,

Just a big thanks for the set of plates. They arrived a couple of days ago. First

time I pop the top on the '13 I'll be installing them.

Thanks,

Gary

 
Streethawk,

You may be the first one to pull the whole engine to do the install.
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That ain't that easy. Just sayin. LOL

Thanks, Dave nice pic's.

Allen I think what Fred meant was to take one of the short elbow pieces and insert the aluminum plug in it. Then install it on the airbox. No need to cut and use the long hose that the aluminum plug came out of. That way everything is still original. One of the shorter hoses will do the job.

Gary, good luck with the install. Let us know if you need any advise. Us folks are good with that on the forum. Many times you get more than what you need.
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I never new they made anal shavers til I met my internet buddy bustanut.

Dave

 
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Plates arrived today...almost time for new plugs and the plate installation...
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thanks Dave...

 
Us folks are good with that on the forum. Many times you get more than what you need.
smile.png
I never new they made anal shavers til I met my internet buddy bustanut.
Any plans for selling custom wynpro billet anal shavers? Not that I need one, just...um...curious. Yea, that's it.

 
FWIW, when I installed my plates, I just took that hose with the cap and plugged it into the open port. I didn't cut it, I just ran it along the left side IIRC...It was easy and NOTHING OEM was modified.

 
Us folks are good with that on the forum. Many times you get more than what you need.
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I never new they made anal shavers til I met my internet buddy bustanut.
Any plans for selling custom wynpro billet anal shavers? Not that I need one, just...um...curious. Yea, that's it.
I was willing to outsource to have 'em done up in billet, but Dave quickly vetoed the idea when I told him we needed a volunteer for an anus and zilla was the only one to step up..
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I was confused as anybody.. I mean the dudes an *** as we all know.
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Yes, what Dave said is what I was saying. By using the shortest hose of those removed (and not cutting anything) one could still return the bike to stock form at some time in the future if they wanted to. Using the short hose keeps the clutter down under the tank.

 
I'm thinking out loud here and working from memory, so bear with me (and pay no attention to the grinding sound).

When I removed the PAIR hosing and installed the plates, there were black "bakelight" rectangle shaped pieces that rested underneath the WinPro covers. I noticed their underneath/engine side were pretty crusty with black deposits. Instead of risking breaking something, I didn't clean them but simply placed them back and then installed the WinPro cover plates.

Should I have cleaned them first? If so, with what/how?

 
Those were the reed valves. I don't think it is necessary to clean them as they will not be functioning anymore. I just slapped the covers over the crusty valves on mine and let 'em be.

 
I did the same as Fred. Of course I pulled one out to look at it, but it wasn't that interesting, so I wiped off the tops; just to be sure the plates sat flush and sealed. Then I put the covers on and haven't messed with them since.

 
Kewl. That's what I did too but I started wondering when all this chit chat in the thread kept going and going and going over what seemed a simple thing.

 
all this chit chat in the thread kept going and going and going over what seemed a simple thing.
Seriously? You are an admin with 6700+ posts and you haven't figured out that this is what we do?
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I did the same as Fred. Of course I pulled out my dink to look at it, but it wasn't that interesting. So I wiped off the knob, and it spit at me........... So I put my pants back on and haven't messed with it since.
Hey!! Keep it on topic arsehole!

 
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Hey Dave,

Just sent you some money over paypal for some plates. Gonna do plugs, TBS, and PAIR all at the same time.

 
Hey Dave, Just sent you some money over paypal for some plates. Gonna do plugs, TBS, and PAIR all at the same time.
Just checked, Nothing there and no email notice.

Check the spelling for wynpro (not winpro) Some folks have made this mistake. Maybe it will show up later. I have them in stock so don't worry.

Dave

 
I figure we need some fresh fodder here so in an act of self-sacrifice, here I go. If I purchase and instal these plates (which I really want to do because they are beautiful, well made, and I don't like all those hoses anyway, etc.), is the only other thing I have to do plug up the air box hole? No tuning or adjusting PCV or anything? And besides a more beautiful mill, are there any other bennies?

I guess a more succinct way of asking my question is, "The plates are the answer, but since I am a FNG, I want to make sure I know what the question is before I jump in". Or, what else has to be done to allow me to install these plates (hopefully nothing) without creating other problems and what benefits will ensue?

 
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