Yes cruise revisited (yea !, NOT)

[Roadstar]

Well last year after installing my audiovox cruise on my 07 , i didn`t work . So i just disconnected the power wire and said F-it . I`m really tired of my hand falling asleep (even with a throttle rocker) on long rides (yes i do the Yoda thing) and it does help for a short time longer. As for the cruise i hooked up the power wire again :glare: this is where the switches are - #1 on, #2 off, #3off, #4 on, #5 off, #6 off, #7 (tried on , now off) Turn key on start bike , hit switch on and light in unit stays on for 7 seconds then blinks on & off . Now raise the idle & it does blink faster, now if you press the set button & hold it the light stays solid until you release the button , then goes back to blinking. (is that normal) I have vacuum hoses on T-body`s 1 & 4 going to a vacuum canister (murphy`s) then too unit. (does that sound right) i tripple checked the wires to power & ground & made sure the purple wire goes to the yellow wire & red to brown (i hope thats right)

Can anyone think of anything else i might have missed (no i don`t have a brake light mojulater) (sorry terrible speller)

Thanks guys

 

[bramfrank]

Start by disconnecting the wire that goes to the brake light and connect that to a hard ground and then try a ride with the device.

If that fixes it you will need a relay, triggered from the brake light bulb which will connetc the brake light wire from the CC to ground directly.

Some units are more sensitive than others to the voltage level on that brake line - I never even biothered to try with mine - I just installed the relay straight up, based on my experience with the C10 I had.

 

[Roadstar]

Start by disconnecting the wire that goes to the brake light and connect that to a hard ground and then try a ride with the device.
If that fixes it you will need a relay, triggered from the brake light bulb which will connetc the brake light wire from the CC to ground directly.

Some units are more sensitive than others to the voltage level on that brake line - I never even biothered to try with mine - I just installed the relay straight up, based on my experience with the C10 I had.

Would that be the purple wire your talking about.

Thanks

 

[wfooshee]

Purple, yes. That wire must be zero volts for the cruise to set. Folks with Flashy LED brake light kits, or LED replacement bulbs, usually find 6 or 8 volts on that wire with the brakes off.

When you say purple to yellow, and red to brown, where are those yellow and brown wires? I ask because the Gen-II bikes use a relay for the brake lights, and the brake switch hookups used by the Gen-I bikes (as outlined in the how-to on fjr1300.info) don't work. The rear brake switch on the Gen-II is actually a ground circuit, not a 12-volt circuit.

 

[Patriot]

Start by disconnecting the wire that goes to the brake light and connect that to a hard ground and then try a ride with the device.

ah yes but ya must be warned (no big deal really) to disconnect the cruise or I mean disengage it, pull in the clutch to increase rpms or at worst, hit the power button to turn it off

 

[Roadstar]

Purple, yes. That wire must be zero volts for the cruise to set. Folks with Flashy LED brake light kits, or LED replacement bulbs, usually find 6 or 8 volts on that wire with the brakes off.
When you say purple to yellow, and red to brown, where are those yellow and brown wires? I ask because the Gen-II bikes use a relay for the brake lights, and the brake switch hookups used by the Gen-I bikes (as outlined in the how-to on fjr1300.info) don't work. The rear brake switch on the Gen-II is actually a ground circuit, not a 12-volt circuit.

Yes gen 2 and they are for the brake light , there under the left cover , right below the computer. MMMMM i thought i did it right. Anyone have the discription & pic of where to hook those 2 wires. Now that would suck not having it hooked up right for a year on my stupid mistake.

 

[wfooshee]

Well, measure them with a voltmeter. The red wire (brown on the bike) should have 12 volts with the key on. The purple wire (yellow on the bike) should have 0 volts with no brakes, 12 volts with brakes applied, either front or rear. If that's not what you see, the cruise will not engage.

 

[Sawanny]

Roadstar,

I used this post clicky as a guide for wiring in my Gen 2 cruise last fall with no issues. See post 2 midway down.

EDIT to add - Purlpe to yellow, Red to blue for the brake light circuit on Gen 2

Hope this helps.

 

[Roadstar]

Well, measure them with a voltmeter. The red wire (brown on the bike) should have 12 volts with the key on. The purple wire (yellow on the bike) should have 0 volts with no brakes, 12 volts with brakes applied, either front or rear. If that's not what you see, the cruise will not engage.

hmmm!! I JUST NOTICED THAT THE LINKY Sawanny posted shows the yellow & blue wire being used :glare: does it matter either way ???? I`ll have to go out & check on this .

 

[wfooshee]

Blue wire is switched 12 volts, yellow wire is brake light filament. As long as the yellow wire is zero volts with no brakes, that'd be good to go.

If it's not 0 volts, then you'll need a relay on that line to ground it with no brakes and apply 12 volts with brakes.

 

[Roadstar]

Blue wire is switched 12 volts, yellow wire is brake light filament. As long as the yellow wire is zero volts with no brakes, that'd be good to go.
If it's not 0 volts, then you'll need a relay on that line to ground it with no brakes and apply 12 volts with brakes.

YEA !!! I`M A DUMBASS i had the purple wire on the brown wire & not the blue wire. Well it still didn`t work , until i grounded the purple wire (works now :yahoo: ) Now just to figure out what to use to stop voltage from getting to the purple wire (yellow wire reads .140 volts with key on)

 

[Patriot]

get a automotive relay (12 volt DC like the bike's battery)

radio shack is fine for all three purchases needed...automotive relay # 275-001 -> https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...ELAID=145898269

see terminals numbered 86, 85...and 87, 30

purchase some female crimp blade connectors # 64-3049 -> https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=2103499

get a crimping tool #64-076 -> https://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...oductId=3932544

So,
30: Purple wire.

87a: Ground

87: switched 12volts, i.e. blue wire from taillights, and red wire from cruise can tap here.

what's called the coil are terminals 85 and 86 which switches the relay on and off -> we want the cruise getting power to tell it to disengage from the coil switching on and off via the brake light

ground terminal 86 and 87a or connect it to the frame or tap into a black ground wire somewhere like the black wire coming off the cruise's servo

now, we want the cruise brake yellow wire to get 12 volts when the brake light (circuit) goes on - gets power - connect yellow wire to terminal 85

so TAP into the purple wire (keep the wire connected to itself i.e. don't cut the wire but connect it to relay terminal 30

switched 12 volts like the servo blue wire to terminal 87

ya'll check me on this...I'm a mechanical engineer and those silly invisible electrons are friggin' magic to me

edit: then edited again: updated with proper instructions

 

[bramfrank]

You want to use the normally closed contact . . . . . that would be 87a, no? And 30 goes to ground.

 

[wfooshee]

You want to use the normally closed contact . . . . . that would be 87a, no? And 30 goes to ground.

No. 30 is not ground, we're switching 12 volts with the relay, not ground. And Mike's note is wrong, too. He's trying to power the relay coil with the purple wire, which won't work.

85: 12 volts with brakes, i.e. yellow wire to brake light bulb

86: Ground

With the key on, relay should click with the brakes on, front or rear.

30: purple wire to cruise, and the purple wire ONLY goes here

87: switched 12 volts, i.e. blue wire to taillights, and red wire to cruise can connect here, too, to get its switched 12 volts

I did it this way so 87a won't sit there "hot" all the time, as it would if 30 was the hot side of the switch.

 

[bramfrank]

You want to use the normally closed contact . . . . . that would be 87a, no? And 30 goes to ground.

No. 30 is not ground, we're switching 12 volts with the relay, not ground. And Mike's note is wrong, too. He's trying to power the relay coil with the purple wire, which won't work.

85: 12 volts with brakes, i.e. yellow wire to brake light bulb

86: Ground

With the key on, relay should click with the brakes on, front or rear.

30: switched 12 volts, i.e. blue wire to taillights, and red wire to cruise can connect here, too, to get its switched 12 volts

87: purple wire to cruise, and the purple wire ONLY goes here

I beg to differ. You have it backward;

With the relay coil wired across the brake bulb, when lights are off, the relay is relaxed and there has to be a GROUND on the brake sensor lead if he has the CCS-100 switches set to what we normally use.

That ground must be HARD, which means that you cannot leave the lead float, becauise the CCS-100 decodes a floating lead as being active.

Now, if you wanted to connect the sensor input to pin 30, ground to 87a and 12 volts to 87, that would be fine, even if it would be overkill. But my instruction was correct, based on the pinout depicted in the post immediately ahead of my last one. Of course, since we are providing a normally closed contact, if you wanted to reverse the wires on 30 and 87a from what I suggested, feel free, but the CCS-100 wants to see a GROUND to signify that the brakes are not actuated, again presuming the DIP switches are set as we usually do.

 

[wfooshee]

You know what, you're right. I'm sitting here making sure I send 12 volts to the purple wire and ignoring the ground with no brakes. I need a nap.

So,

30: Purple wire.

87a: Ground

87: switched 12volts, i.e. blue wire from taillights, and red wire from cruise can tap here.

This has all been laid out somewhere, I just can't find the posts. I'm usually so good at finding posts, too. . . .

Mike, take my quote out of your post. How dare you go in and edit a quote from a later post into yours??!!! Serves ya right, since it was wrong!! You got it while I was editing, too, so it's not even a real quote!!!! :lol:

 

[Roadstar]

like this one https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//lofiversion...php/t18360.html

without the modulator

 

[FJRGuy]

I just tapped the purple into the brake lead near the airbox. No problems encountered at all ( I love my Cruise! :-D)

You really shouldn't need the relay with stock brake lights!

 

[bramfrank]

I just tapped the purple into the brake lead near the airbox. No problems encountered at all ( I love my Cruise! :-D)You really shouldn't need the relay with stock brake lights!

You were lucky - some of the units are very sensitive to stray voltage and require the relay whether you or not have stock lighting. When I did mine I knew I'd be installing some aux braking indicators (and you've seen them), so I put the relay in as a matter of course, having had the problem with my stock C10 in the distant past.