Yet another HID experiment

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So you're talking about leaving your ballasts in, changing the bulbs, then just modifying the solenoid wiring to operate off a seperate relay from the Hi/Lo switch. Am I getting that right?
Not exactly. I already have the bi-Xenon kit with high beam shutters. It already has wiring to activate the solenoids for the shutters, so I'm assuming that wiring could be connected to the telescopic solenoids. If the high-voltage wire connections are the same, it would be fairly easy (and much cheaper) to install the telescopic capsules to the rest of the kit I already own.

I would probably only do it on the right side, at least until I add driving lights, as I really like my left side HID driving beam mods.

Reflector.jpg


 
So you're talking about leaving your ballasts in, changing the bulbs, then just modifying the solenoid wiring to operate off a seperate relay from the Hi/Lo switch. Am I getting that right?
Not exactly. I already have the bi-Xenon kit with high beam shutters. It already has wiring to activate the solenoids for the shutters, so I'm assuming that wiring could be connected to the telescopic solenoids. If the high-voltage wire connections are the same, it would be fairly easy (and much cheaper) to install the telescopic capsules to the rest of the kit I already own.

I would probably only do it on the right side, at least until I add driving lights, as I really like my left side HID driving beam mods.
Yep, that should work.

FWIW, I think that if you did both sides with the telescopic units, you wouldn't need driving lights.

 
Not exactly. I already have the bi-Xenon kit with high beam shutters. It already has wiring to activate the solenoids for the shutters, so I'm assuming that wiring could be connected to the telescopic solenoids. If the high-voltage wire connections are the same, it would be fairly easy (and much cheaper) to install the telescopic capsules to the rest of the kit I already own.
I remembered you had the shuttered version shortly after hitting send. The EMF used to activate the shutter should also work on moving the bulb in this version. :confusedsmiley:

Jim

 
Has there been any thought to putting the ballast modules on top of the engine area heat shield, kind of attached to the "T" bracket at the upper frame area? There was a mention on another thread about having enough room to mount an CC servo, so I figured ther be enough room for the ballasts, what do you guys think?

 
+1 on the alternative mounting of the ballasts.

i would like to give these a try, but i really do not want to loose the glovebox.

jason

 
+1 on the alternative mounting of the ballasts.
i would like to give these a try, but i really do not want to loose the glovebox.

jason
I hear you but you don't really loose the glovebox if you do it like I did. You can still stuff you paperwork in there (which is all you should ever keep there due to the heat) and you can pull the ballast out to access the 12v port if you leave 8" slack in the wires.

Putting them under the tank is likely to cook them in short order but it might be worth a try given how cheap they are.

 
+1 on the alternative mounting of the ballasts.
i would like to give these a try, but i really do not want to loose the glovebox.
If I owned a Gen II bike and didn't want to compromise the fairing pocket, I would ditch the HID headlight idea and go with the Soltek aux. lights, due to the lack of space for mounting the ballasts, at least until a smaller kit came along. My .02

+1 on BMWHD's opinion about the fairing pocket.

Even with a ballast in there, you can still do this:

DSC01367.jpg


 
but the solteks are $$$. while they are no doubt the best lighting sollution out there, they would cost me well over $1000 AU.

compared to the aprox $200 au for these from ebay.

i use the glove box to hold my wallet, and nokia while im mobile, and stow the zumo in there when im parked, or at work.

so i really cant loose the box.

jason

 
There are three other places to mount the ballasts that could be made to work (other than the center vent per WC):

1) Under the headlight housing. If one were willing to cut the nose fairing where it passes under the headlights (out of sight, mind you), then you could mount the ballasts to the bottom of the headlight housing. They would be flush with the nose piece and not visible nor in jeopardy of hitting the fender but I was not willing to cut the fairing.

2) It might be possible to get both ballasts mounted where I have one of mine - to the rear of the glove box, inboard of the coolant filler tube. You would have to move things around a bit (wires and such) plus possibly make a slight modification to the filler tube but it could work.

3) Inside the side panels, directly next to the turn signal housings. However, this would require two mods - re-routing the wire harness components that hang down from the top of the bike and fill these voids AND some cutting of the turn signal pods inside the fairing.

If the ballasts were 1/4" thinner, 1) above would not require cutting and would be the easiest by far.

Another thought on 1) above - If someone has a '06+ headlight housing, it would be interesting to see if there's a 1/4" of space that could be used in the bottom of the housing. Cutting into it from below and sinking 1/4" of the ballast into the bottom of the housing could also work but would present some serious moisture intrusion challenges.

 
I have test fit the ballast units under the tank and while they will fit with them very close to the heat shield and the tank, I just have the slightly "un-easy feeling" of a 23k volt source next to a gas tank.

So my question is: how much heat do these ballasts put out and how much can they stand if in fact they were mounted above the engine area on the "T" brace?

 
I have test fit the ballast units under the tank and while they will fit with them very close to the heat shield and the tank, I just have the slightly "un-easy feeling" of a 23k volt source next to a gas tank.
So my question is: how much heat do these ballasts put out and how much can they stand if in fact they were mounted above the engine area on the "T" brace?


bump

 
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The ballasts don't get that hot if exposed to some air. The one I have mounted in the rad filler tube area never gets more than warm to the touch. The one in the glove box gets much warmer but not too hot to touch.

I think you'll cook those things putting them under the tank but who knows? Maybe there's some info available from the manufacturer on operating temp ranges.

 
UPDATE: So far, so good. Units continue to work perfectly with one tiny exception - The bulbs have now "burned in" to their final color as all HIDs do after 10-50 hrs of use and have settled on very slightly different colors. You really have to stare at them for a while to notice it but they are slightly different. Not a problem, just an observation.

 
UPDATE: So far, so good. Units continue to work perfectly with one tiny exception - The bulbs have now "burned in" to their final color as all HIDs do after 10-50 hrs of use and have settled on very slightly different colors. You really have to stare at them for a while to notice it but they are slightly different. Not a problem, just an observation.
In the lighting industry the different colors are refered to as "a field of flowers"! I have a 2003 and was able to lay the ballasts flat and RTV "glue" them just below the headlights. The only problem I've had is that one of the lamps is bad....checked it by swiching ballasts. Tucking all that wiring away is also a bit of a problem! Thanks for telling us about the $129 kit.....well worth it!

Jim

 
I was thinking about relocating the battery some where else and using that space for the ballasts. Running large gauge wires would not be that big of a deal and there may be a different size battery that could accomodate a different location easier.

Any thoughts?

 
I was thinking about relocating the battery some where else and using that space for the ballasts. Running large gauge wires would not be that big of a deal and there may be a different size battery that could accommodate a different location easier.
Any thoughts?
I saw a classified ad a while back where the owner claimed he had relocated the battery. He never gave any details, though, so I think you're in uncharted territory here.

 
I was thinking about relocating the battery some where else and using that space for the ballasts. Running large gauge wires would not be that big of a deal and there may be a different size battery that could accommodate a different location easier.
Any thoughts?
I saw a classified ad a while back where the owner claimed he had relocated the battery. He never gave any details, though, so I think you're in uncharted territory here.

I have the left side of my fairing free space occupied by a fuse block, xm sat antenna, and headset amp. I have the HID lamp kit and don't have a lot of options for placement of the ballasts other than the glove box which I'd prefer to avoid which is why I'm going for other options, like under the tank and other placements.

 
I was thinking about relocating the battery some where else and using that space for the ballasts. Running large gauge wires would not be that big of a deal and there may be a different size battery that could accommodate a different location easier.
Any thoughts?
I saw a classified ad a while back where the owner claimed he had relocated the battery. He never gave any details, though, so I think you're in uncharted territory here.

I have the left side of my fairing free space occupied by a fuse block, xm sat antenna, and headset amp. I have the HID lamp kit and don't have a lot of options for placement of the ballasts other than the glove box which I'd prefer to avoid which is why I'm going for other options, like under the tank and other placements.
I like the idea of moving the battery. I'm sure you could find one that would fit under the seat (assuming you don't have some other farkle there) and still have the proper rating.

 
I was thinking about relocating the battery some where else and using that space for the ballasts. Running large gauge wires would not be that big of a deal and there may be a different size battery that could accommodate a different location easier.
Any thoughts?
I saw a classified ad a while back where the owner claimed he had relocated the battery. He never gave any details, though, so I think you're in uncharted territory here.

I have the left side of my fairing free space occupied by a fuse block, xm sat antenna, and headset amp. I have the HID lamp kit and don't have a lot of options for placement of the ballasts other than the glove box which I'd prefer to avoid which is why I'm going for other options, like under the tank and other placements.
I like the idea of moving the battery. I'm sure you could find one that would fit under the seat (assuming you don't have some other farkle there) and still have the proper rating.


Ya that's where I'm kinda screwed. I have my AVCC servo and vacuum reservior located under the seat and there isn't a whole lot room around there anyways as I have a corbin seat which sits a bit lower and behind it is a corbin smuggler bin. I'm just wondering if there would be a way to get it into the area behind the engine just above the swing arm area?

I thought I read about a post where someone put the ballasts below the head light enclosures but maybe these ballasts are too big for that area?

 
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