Auburn
Well-known member
This is to show what happens when you don't do the maintenance.
I'll start by referring you to a very good resource with pictures and diagrams for doing the service. https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/sa/sa.html it gets you into the swing arm and other linkage points also.
The background on my rear suspension: I installed a Penske 8987 shock on the bike at 5800 miles on 1/10/08. I have done no service to it until 12/29/12. The bike currently has 33,670 miles on it. When I bought the shock from GP Suspension they recommended servicing it every 20,000 miles. I noticed that it was not performing as well as it should about 5000 miles ago.
In December 2012 I had the shock serviced by the new owner of GP suspension (KFG Racing in Auburn, WA). The shock had 27,870 miles on it.
I got a call from GP to come take a look at the shock. Here are pictures of the shim stacks. They show lots of corrosion in the shims. The shims are varying thicknesses and diameters of stainless steel. (EDIT - the yellow color of the shims is due to lighting - they are stainless steel)
Below is the assembly that goes inside the remote resevior. It needs to be rebuilt do to the corrosion. This caused additional expesne that could have been avoided with a more regular service schedule
I'll add more photo of the shock internals when I get them from GP Suspension. I can say they looked pretty bad.
With the shock out I decided to check all the linkage points and remove the swing arm and lube all those points too.
Here is the lower shock linkage diagram
At this point in my pictures the swing arm is removed. The linkage is still in the bike, and you have to remove the center stand to get the linkage off.
Linkage off, left side bolts the frame, right is the lower shock bolt and the center is the lower dog bone mount. Note the corrosion on the bolt that goes through bushing (piece #19 in the diagram)
Here is the linkage looking from each side
The bushing removed - looking through at the bearings - note the bearing side of the bushing had a little bit of an oil film and the bearings moved smoothly and were fine.
The dog bone bolts after cleaning up with wire brush and 600 grit sand paper.
The Shop Manual calls for lithium soap based grease to be used. My experience from my dirt bikes with soap based greases on shock linkages is that is washes out quickly and is not very effective. I started using a marine grade moly lube originally made by JetLube.
Here is where I get it at McMaster-Carr on line. Part number 10625K11 for $16.71 for a 1 lb container. https://www.mcmaster....18/2166/=kwm2ey NOTE: the name has changed to Dow Corning but the part number and specs are the same as the Jet lube I use.
Here is a picture of the label of mine (I repackaged into an old silkolene container)
On my dirt bikes, the linkages look like I just did them after a year of riding in the mud and pressure washing the bike to clean. I also use this lube on all the axles and any place that has a bolt going through a bushing.
To be continued:
I'll start by referring you to a very good resource with pictures and diagrams for doing the service. https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/sa/sa.html it gets you into the swing arm and other linkage points also.
The background on my rear suspension: I installed a Penske 8987 shock on the bike at 5800 miles on 1/10/08. I have done no service to it until 12/29/12. The bike currently has 33,670 miles on it. When I bought the shock from GP Suspension they recommended servicing it every 20,000 miles. I noticed that it was not performing as well as it should about 5000 miles ago.
In December 2012 I had the shock serviced by the new owner of GP suspension (KFG Racing in Auburn, WA). The shock had 27,870 miles on it.
I got a call from GP to come take a look at the shock. Here are pictures of the shim stacks. They show lots of corrosion in the shims. The shims are varying thicknesses and diameters of stainless steel. (EDIT - the yellow color of the shims is due to lighting - they are stainless steel)
Below is the assembly that goes inside the remote resevior. It needs to be rebuilt do to the corrosion. This caused additional expesne that could have been avoided with a more regular service schedule
I'll add more photo of the shock internals when I get them from GP Suspension. I can say they looked pretty bad.
With the shock out I decided to check all the linkage points and remove the swing arm and lube all those points too.
Here is the lower shock linkage diagram
At this point in my pictures the swing arm is removed. The linkage is still in the bike, and you have to remove the center stand to get the linkage off.
Linkage off, left side bolts the frame, right is the lower shock bolt and the center is the lower dog bone mount. Note the corrosion on the bolt that goes through bushing (piece #19 in the diagram)
Here is the linkage looking from each side
The bushing removed - looking through at the bearings - note the bearing side of the bushing had a little bit of an oil film and the bearings moved smoothly and were fine.
The dog bone bolts after cleaning up with wire brush and 600 grit sand paper.
The Shop Manual calls for lithium soap based grease to be used. My experience from my dirt bikes with soap based greases on shock linkages is that is washes out quickly and is not very effective. I started using a marine grade moly lube originally made by JetLube.
Here is where I get it at McMaster-Carr on line. Part number 10625K11 for $16.71 for a 1 lb container. https://www.mcmaster....18/2166/=kwm2ey NOTE: the name has changed to Dow Corning but the part number and specs are the same as the Jet lube I use.
Here is a picture of the label of mine (I repackaged into an old silkolene container)
On my dirt bikes, the linkages look like I just did them after a year of riding in the mud and pressure washing the bike to clean. I also use this lube on all the axles and any place that has a bolt going through a bushing.
To be continued:
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