Rear shock linkage maintenance

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Auburn removed the shock from my Husky yesterday, as I was sending them out along with the front forks for rebuilding. The bike has only 1500 miles, albeit mostly dirt. Rear bones and pivots were dry.

Gotta do this lube stuff much more frequently.

Great post, Bryan. A tub of grease is on its way to casa Hudson.

 
Fuke me.........

Finally removed my Wilbers shock off the 130,000 mile 04 FJR to send it out for servicing. It was WAY overdue with 68,000 miles on it since the last service. I haven't noticed any issues, but I haven't been riding this FJR for a couple months now knowing the forks and shock were way overdue for servicing and also my valve check was due 8,000 miles ago.

Went to service the suspension linkages. One of them is NOT good and not sure how to proceed. The collar in the swingarm linkage wouldn't budge. With some force I was able to remove it. NOT GOOD!!!

The swingarm linkage I am talking about.

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The collar that came out of it. Ok on the right side, Bad corrosion on the left side.

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After sanding with 600 grit for quite a while it's much better, but I can still feel irregularities. It's a $6.19 part at Cyclepartswarehouse so I will just replace it. The problem is the bearings themselves. They don't look so good. Can you see the corrosion colored crap?

P1010162.jpg


How does one remove and install new bearings? They are only $13, but I am afraid that is above my pay grade. I think I am going to have to clean as best I can, lube, and hope for the best. At least for a while. I will replace the oil seal ($4.27). Should I squirt a solvent like brake cleaner in there to wash away as much as the muck as possible before applying fresh grease?

When I installed the Wilbers shock 68k miles ago I am sure I would have checked everything and re-lubed as I am doing now, though I don't remember specifically. On my first FJR, I never had any issues in 226k miles and it saw a LOT more rain than this one. Lesson learned. You can say it now Brian...............

I am not bothering with the hard to get to linkage. It is rotating smoothly and I am not up for dealing with C-stand removal.

However, I still need to inspect one last linkage on the other side of the dogbones. The dogbones are not moving freely and smoothly so I am afraid what I will find there too.

P1010160.jpg


And damn, I am jonesing for a freaking lift. Fairlaner's has got me spoiled when I am there. I am too damned old to be spending so much time laying on the ground.

So help? Advice? Suggestions? Told you sos........

Oh, and btw, if you think *I* am bad, I know a certain forum member who has 130,000 miles on his 05 FJR and still has the stock shock and forks!!!!! Forks serviced a LONG time ago. Shock never been off. He will be getting a full boat custom suspension (at my urging) soon. I wonder what his fork oil and suspension linkages look like? He is on a coast too. Does the salt air make this stuff worse?

 
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Skooter, from the looks of the bearings and the wear on your spacer, I'd say the bearings are frozen too.

I believe you can press them out from one side.

EDIT: I think there is a spacer in between the bearings. You'll have to check the manual on that. Just checked the manual, there is no spacer between the bearings. You will want to check and see if the swing arm is machined all the way through so you can press the bearings out from one side. You will need a blind puller or something to drive the bearings out.

My dirt bike looked that bad before I started doing them regularly and it had a spacer between them. Don't be surprised if the outer race of the bearing is corroded to the swing arm. If those look that bad you may want to do them all. My dirt bike is the reason I bought a harbor freight press. Fairly cheap for the one off use it gets. I had to use rust penetrant for two days before they finally broke loose. I just used one of my impact driver sockets as the spacer to drive them out. The good thing is your rollers are still in there, on my dirt bike they were so bad they all fell out. If you can't get it to press out, worst case, you may have to take a hack saw blade and use it to cut a couple of slots so you can use a punch to drive the pieces out.


Make sure to measure the depth after you remove the seal so you know how far to set the new bearings. Good reason to take the swing arm off and check/grease those to. Alos, make sure to clean the new bearings and re-grease them with a good waterproof grease not the soap based crap that washes out.


You could also take the pieces to a machine shop and have them press them for you. But it all is very doable if you have access to the tools

EDIT: All balls makes a bearing kit for the FJR swing arm for $64.99 and has all the bearings, seals and new spacers. I am not sure of the spacer you are holding comes with the kit. I think it does, but I can't remember from my dirt bike. NOTE: this kist includes the swing arm pivot bearings, seals and spacers. But you may not need it. https://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/2004-YAMAHA-FJR1300-FJR13--all-balls-swingarm-bearing-kit?pssource=true&psreferrer=http%253A%252F%252Fwww.google.com%252F&utm_medium=cpc&creative=18261559705&adpos=1t1&gclid=CN61046L87QCFUxxQgodyV0AMQ&segment=badger&mmy_source=pdp

This kit is no longer available

 
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Those bearings and that collar are shot, its a common issue in the UK. Easiest way is to use a blind bearing puller to pull those bearing out. It is possible to get on the back of them using a drift drift and punching them out from the other side (unlike the centre bearings in the linkage its self which require the use of blind bearing puller or a lot of hard work ). I've always taken the swing arm out to do it but it should be possible to do it in situe and you will have to devise some system to drive the new bearings back it (threaded rod, nuts and washers should work). Replace the seals whilst you are at it they are a cheap part.

 
I've always used sockets of a close proximity dia. to pound out bearings when a puller isn't needed.

 
Oh, and btw, if you think *I* am bad, I know a certain forum member who has 130,000 miles on his 05 FJR and still has the stock shock and forks!!!!! Forks serviced a LONG time ago. Shock never been off. He will be getting a full boat custom suspension (at my urging) soon. I wonder what his fork oil and suspension linkages look like? He is on a coast too. Does the salt air make this stuff worse?
Whew! at first I thought Skooter was talking about me... then I realized I only have 129,600 on MY 05 AND

I would not be so stupid. EVERYONE knows the suspension is solid up to 129,999, then after that it is just plain worn out!

Plus I like PHYSICAL EVIDENCE that something is not right... like this:

Topcase cracking (Exploding) near Coldfoot,AK

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A total of 4 subframe cracks on mirror supports

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And my DIY Plexiglas rear rack (2 1/4inch sheets doubled) lasting only half of my first rally.

It shattered on the first rock road venture.

Oh well lesson learned

Some people take a gentle nudging... Skooter used a hammer on me

 
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Skooter, from the looks of the bearings and the wear on your spacer, I'd say the bearings are frozen too.

Brian, I appreciate your help and advice, but you are speaking Greek to me. While I 'theoretically' understand how to replace bearings, I have not experience here. Never done it. Never watched anybody do it. Don't have the tools. I *may* attempt removing the swingarm, but C-stand removal is not going to happen. I really don't know where to go from here. Doing a lot of thinking of options. BTW, with some coaxing I got the bearings to move. So they are not frozen, but they sure aren't moving smoothly.

Those bearings and that collar are shot, its a common issue in the UK. Easiest way is to use a blind bearing puller to pull those bearing out. It is possible to get on the back of them using a drift drift and punching them out from the other side (unlike the centre bearings in the linkage its self which require the use of blind bearing puller or a lot of hard work ). I've always taken the swing arm out to do it but it should be possible to do it in situe and you will have to devise some system to drive the new bearings back it (threaded rod, nuts and washers should work). Replace the seals whilst you are at it they are a cheap part.

I would have preferred a more positive answer! You guys are obviously handy. I am not. I mean I am compared to mi ******* step-pappy, but not compared to you guys.

So is your threaded rod/nuts/washers the only way to press in a bearing?

Personally, I think this might be the easier approach.
Don't encourage me! Actually, if I was going to do something stupid, I would have done this: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/150188-fs-2008-fjr-32k-miles-black-farkled-up/

 
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Well, it just gets better. Finally got around to the center bearings on the linkage that the connect to the dogbones. These are the ones where movement 'was not smooth or free' as I mentioned above.

The collar wouldn't budge. I had to pound it out with a hammer and screwdriver.

The collar:

P1010163.jpg


And the bearings:

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These are completely frozen. And looks like I am done. C-stand removal (required to get the linkage off) is past my ability/garage space right now. So I guess I clean everything up as best I can, lube, and ride it to the dealer for the job I can't afford. On the slightly bright side, at least I caught it now before the dogbones broke while riding as happened to at least one FJR rider. You can bet I will be servicing these linkages a lot more regularly. Frankly, I am surprised I didn't 'feel' it while riding.

 
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Well, it just gets better. Finally got around to the center bearings on the linkage that the connect to the dogbones. These are the ones where movement 'was not smooth or free' as I mentioned above.
The collar wouldn't budge. I had to pound it out with a hammer and screwdriver.

These are completely frozen. And looks like I am done. C-stand removal (required to get the linkage off) is past my ability/garage space right now. So I guess I clean everything up as best I can, lube, and ride it to the dealer for the job I can't afford. On the slightly bright side, at least I caught it now before the dogbones broke while riding as happened to at least one FJR rider. You can bet I will be servicing these linkages a lot more regularly. Frankly, I am surprised I didn't 'feel' it while riding.
You've come this far Skoot, may as well finish the job? To remove my center-stand I suspended the rear of the bike from the shop ceiling with a couple of sturdy (ie non-Chinese) tie downs.

Think how proud Don would be.
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Al
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You've come this far Skoot, may as well finish the job? To remove my center-stand I suspended the rear of the bike from the shop ceiling with a couple of sturdy (ie non-Chinese) tie downs.Think how proud Don would be.
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Al
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As much as I would like to try. I don't just see it happening. Finished ceiling on the garage, and due to other reasons it's not going to be possible to hang anything from the garage.

But, to learn how, and save a little money, I am thinking of making a go on the one bearing on the swingarm. There are obviously several ways to skin a cat, and I would like to try with the cheapest/easiest.

So for all you experts out there - can I just punch the one bearing out using a screwdriver and hammer? What is a 'punch'? I don't have a 'punch'. Should I go buy some? But the biggie - how do I get the new bearing in? Proper sized socket and hammer? I would like to try and get at that one on the swingarm without doing any more disassembly.

 
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WOW!! Those bearings are ******! Can you make a pipe stand and suspend the bike from that? If you were closer, I'd let you use mine.

 
Skoot, pull off the whole swing arm assembly off. Then either take it to the dealer and have them remove / press in new bearings and seals or get one of your local SW cronies to lend a hand and do it yourself. In any event, taking off the swing arm and carrying it to a dealer will save a ton of $$$ since you've gone this far with the dis-assembly process.

Although I haven't done it myself, my FSM seems to show the swingarm removed with the centerstand intact.

--G

 
I too originally ignored the linkage maintenance until at around 120k miles I found this whilst pulling out the Penske for a rebuild. This is what the races in the knuckle linkage looked like, the most FUBAR one came out of the center knuckle (which sits the lowest to the ground). I had brought the knuckle linkage to the dealer to have them R/R the new bearings into the linkage and obviously replaced any collars that showed any wear.

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Interestingly enough the bearings on the swing arm were like new, that shaft didn't show any wear at all. The way I figured it was that since this linkage sits up nice and high no water gets to it, whereas the knuckles get based in every time you ride in the rain. But Scooter your pics/bike shows quite the opposite, which is really puzzling to me.

The Penske is on it's way back to Traxxion Dynamics for a rebuild since I'm now at 160k miles. I took the opportunity to check for free movement of the various linkages and re-grease the ones I can get access to like the swing arm one and it's still fine as were the knuckle bearings.

IMG_1481.jpg


The linkage knuckle reanimated pretty well though and has worked flawlessly for the past 45k and looks good to go for another 40-50k miles.

IMG_1476.jpg


 
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Scooter, I don't know what your garage ceiling looks like but what I did is this dynabolt a 400kg rated buckle into the ceiling and an using a 1 ton rated hoist to support the rear of the bike. Maybe that's something you could do in your garage I don't know...



I have a safety chain looped around the top hook of the hoist that's secured into the two empty dynabolts you can see in the pic, to catch the 32kg hoist and everything else (should it start to go) for long enough for me to get my ass out of the way, I hope.

 
Just on this general subject, for those who have pulled the swing arm out for maintenance/service, has anyone found those bearings dry? I'm not too keen to pull the swing arm off just for ***** and giggles just yet if I don't need to. It seems to move pretty unobstructed right now.

 

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