Oil change tips & tricks

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Toecutter

Toecutter

What would DoG do?
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Today was just over 4k from the last time, so I warmed it up, put it on the centerstand, shut it down and pulled the drain plug. As it was draining and the flow started to slow, I pulled it on over toward me until it rested on the foot tang of the centerstand. Holding it there, waiting for the rest to drain, I noticed that the other foot of the stand appeared to be about an inch and a half above the ground. So, I set it back down, fetched a piece of 2 by 6 that was handy (2x4 would suffice, suffice it to say), pulled it back on over, then slid the board under the far foot of the centerstand. Went in, had some quick lunch, then returned and went about the business of finishing the oil change. For anybody who is at least as anal as myself, this would be an easy way to get that last two tablespoons of contaminated swill out of the bike.

I tried, with limited success and additional messiness, moving it to the sidestand from the centerstand on a previous endeavor. Today's method yielded much better results. YMMV

I also popped the bolt out that held the lower fairing piece, then used the allen wrench to prop it out of the way, so no oil ran onto the back of it, migrating forward and eventually onto the ground, when I pulled the filter.

MVC-001S.jpg


MVC-002S.jpg


 
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Good idea. That's how I get mine up higher to change the rear tire....I "walk" it up, 1st one side, then the other so that the rear of the bike is 2" higher to roll the rear tire out. I'd never thought of using your solution to drain all the oil from the bottom of the pan.

[SIZE=8pt]16 posts to go...and counting![/SIZE]

 
madmike2 said:
Good idea. That's how I get mine up higher to change the rear tire....I "walk" it up, 1st one side, then the other so that the rear of the bike is 2" higher to roll the rear tire out. I'd never thought of using your solution to drain all the oil from the bottom of the pan.
[SIZE=8pt]16 posts to go...and counting![/SIZE]
Click to expand...
And I'm gonna use that one next time I need to change the rear tire, which may not be for quite some time on this new "E" Pirelli. 4000+ and it looks great still! The original Strada was done at four.
I had been setting the 2x6 down first, then humping it onto the centerstand/board combo, but that was back before, at 46, I'm now officially pushing 50. Us old guys have to work smarter, not harder. Thanks Mike! :clapping:

 
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You still have about a quart of residual oil in the crankcase so you don't have to go to extremes to get the last once that will drain. If you have the service manual you will see that total rebuild oil replacement capacity is a little over 5 quarts and total drain and refill is just over 4 quart, but no harm done either.

 
C&C said:
You still have about a quart of residual oil in the crankcase so you don't have to go to extremes to get the last once that will drain. If you have the service manual you will see that total rebuild oil replacement capacity is a little over 5 quarts and total drain and refill is just over 4 quart, but no harm done either.
Click to expand...
And here's evidence of the resulting contamination that the leftover oil causes:
Before starting the motor (top), and after inital start, warmup, and shutdown (bottom):

DSC01423.jpg
DSC01424.jpg


All the more reason to change it at least as often as the schedule suggests, and (at least for me) to get those extra drops out.

 
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Proper changing intervals - WITH oil filter - is more important than each and every little drop. You won't *ever* get *all* the oil out. Ever.

$.02

 
Yeah, but the more old oil out, the more new oil in. Gotta be good.

And Toe, I noticed the close-up pics that conveniently don't show your nasty-ass garage.

 
is that a pure-one (purolator) filter that you painted black? (noticing the red around the gasket)

If so -- what'd ya paint it with?

 
for MADMIKE2 and TOECUTTER and anyone else that wants to do it.

1st put down a big enough piece of 2x6 for the center stand to go on and behind it put a piece of 2x4 about 8" or so long. now line them up as a "T" behind the rear tire with the 2x6 piece first going side to side and then the 2x4 piece 2nd going front to back.

now push the bike backwards and when you get to where you can put down the center stand do so, if you do it this way it is about the same as with nothing under it.

when you do it with just the piece under the center stand it is 2 inches higher you are trying to lift the bike and much harder.

I am 67 years old and do it my way easy and change all of my own tires, so far I have changed 12 tires on my 05'

 
Rickster said:
is that a pure-one (purolator) filter that you painted black? (noticing the red around the gasket)
If so -- what'd ya paint it with?
Click to expand...

Use some gloss black engine paint, it works good on any filter including the Fram 7317. Most engine paint will take up to 200 degrees and your filter doesnt get any hotter than that. I use Pure Ones and Frams painted and it works great. :)

 
Rickster said:
is that a pure-one (purolator) filter that you painted black? (noticing the red around the gasket)
If so -- what'd ya paint it with?
Click to expand...
Nope, Yamaha OEM and it comes that way. The red stuff is some Silkolene grease that I smeared on the filter flange.
 
C&C said:
You still have about a quart of residual oil in the crankcase so you don't have to go to extremes to get the last once that will drain. If you have the service manual you will see that total rebuild oil replacement capacity is a little over 5 quarts and total drain and refill is just over 4 quart, but no harm done either.
Click to expand...
You might ask: With a full quart of oil left inside, won't the engine oil become dirtier and dirtier after changing each subsequent time?

If that quart left inside has, say, 100 contaminating units at the end of change #1, then it is diluted to 25 units after the four other quarts of oil is added.

Next change at the same interval, there is now 125 units (100 + 25), that is diluted to 31.

Change number three has 131, diluted to 33.

Change four shows that the oil levels out at about 133 thereafter.

So, the answer is NO.

 
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I see FJRs falling over if you don't use extreme caution.

I just pick the bike up, turn it upside down, and then smack the seat a few times to get the last bit out. (Just like smack starting a baby).

Sometimes when I am inclined, I drain the last bit out on the side stand.

Drain from the center, put the plug back on a thread or two, put on side stand, pull plug.

:dntknw:

 
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