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I'd open the filler cap, start the bike and listen. Should be much more noticeable if the pump is the noise (sounds like it) The start up pressurization "noise" is normal. My old 04 NEVER made a fuel pump noise you could hear over the engine. My 07 FZ6 (similar pump) is also very quiet...

As noted, OPEN (CCW) the base TB air screw. As I re-call, stock, the air screw is about 3/4 a turn out from lightly seated. That should give you more adjustment (with an idle and a throttle stop screw that NOW works) Now, re-sync your TB's. You should be able to obtain 1,100 with turning...

https://motorcycle.michelinman.com/motorbike/michelin/desktop/US/en/help/pp3vr.html

Thank you!! BTW, that's actually Helicopter, leading edge tape, for the rotor (Heavy duty stuff): And every clamp around (non ES bike), bracket is test fitted to a piece of Yamaha sub frame for correct fit before it goes out the door...

The outside looks exactly the same. When I had my 04 FJR, I found HG's at Deals Gap, poked my Yamaha key thru the bag and found it was the same style key. Once home, I designed the Gen 1 helmet lock brackets and with time, the updated brackets, till present. The HG is slightly tighter (key...

The actual LOCKING "tabs/pins" are different between the Yamaha lock and the Helmet Guardian. And I'm NOT referring to the key off set but the actual pins that go up and down with the key installed... Re-keying is basically the same but those pins are NOT interchangeable between a Yamaha lock...

The extra lock cylinder provided by Yamaha is for a Yamaha Top Case, should you buy one later. I gather you got the brackets / locks mounted up?

It's also known as a BMW style outlet as they've been using that style forever on their bikes... Yamaha has been using them too.

This is the Male plug you would need to plug into it: https://www.powerlet.com/product/powerlet-straight-plug/276

Morgan Carbtune.. Super accurate, no fluids to screw with or suck into your engine.. Paid for itself MANY times over...

12-1300 is plenty. I kept mine at 1100 warm, inside spec, (less first gear clunking too).. IE, your main idle, MANUAL screw adjuster puts you currently pretty darn close (as in lowering if anything).. Your turning out the air screws is what you should (and did) do when you run out of...

Well, someone was definitely dinking under the tank.. Get a hold of a throttle body sync tool and do a TB sync, it's going to need it. As the idle screw / cable, etc was messed with as well, you might want to open up the parts diagram while your under the tank and check for anything else...

What was the idle set at BEFORE and now?

You should be able to down load a copy of the owners manual for free... That among other basic, important parts / procedures are in there...

Perhaps a mis-communication; TORX bit https://www.amazon.com/torx-bit/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Atorx%20bit

You shouldn't need a torx to adjust the idle. I don't remember but either by hand or a phillips head screw driver. As there's really very little load on the idle screw, often an allan key will fit or simply the correct sized FLAT screwdriver. (I know my old '04 didn't take a torx bit for the...

Part #28 IS your idle set screw, (should be view-able just under the frame rail, (star board side): https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2006/FJR13ABS+-+FJR13AV/INTAKE+2/parts.html CLOCKWISE to raise, CC to lower RPMs. Should be in your owners manual as well..

Besides bleeding the clutch (to fix the mushiness) pulling in the clutch ALSO stops one of the main transmission shafts from spinning. Could be something as simple as a bearing, (part #15) failing or something deeper...

It's funny you mention this Fred ( ^^^^ ). On my old KLR 250, the cam chain is easily twice as long as the FJR's. The one shop,(I've known the owners for MANY YEARS and trust), I brought the bike to for the possible cam chain noise. He pulled off the access bolt (similar design as the FJR)...

You should have to turn the flat screw (under the bolt on the end) CLOCKWISE, WHILE pushing in the tension-er rod. It should retract then. New, it should have come with a small part/retainer that held it retracted. Once installed, you'd pull the retainer, the tensioner rod extends out... You...