05 FJR Frame sliders - Cut or No-Cut

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
M

Marbarian

Guest
Any Gen 1 experiences with Cut required or No-Cut sliders that could help a fella make a decision one way or the other? I've noticed some of the manufactures are not offering Gen 1 sliders, I assume from the limited space between fairing opening to the frame availability. Hence the No-Cut versions come with expensive bracket. Is the opinion of the No-Cut option that the bracket will hold up to a incident??? Opinions??

Curious in Southern MD.

 
I've had two '05's. First one was bought used without sliders. I bought the kind you cut the holes for--no problem. Second bike came with no-cut sliders already installed. I believe, and others have said, that the "cut" type are sturdier. For what they do, though, I think they both serve the purpose--protecting your plastic from tip-overs. I preferred the location of the no-cut ones (sorry, don't recall the maker) as they were lower and more likely to catch the weight of the bike before damaging anything. Neither one is going to do much in any kind of moving crash. As for installation, cutting the plastic was a breeze. Just take a look where the center of the hole would be and drill a small hole. Work it larger from there with a Dremel as needed, fine tuning the shape as you go; it goes very easy and you'll never have to take the sliders off and have to look at the hole again, so why worry about that? If you can find a deal on either kind, I'd take it--maybe in the forum's classifieds.

 
I machined my own sliders several months ago. I went with the cut method. I didn't want to deal with making a bracket. It was a fairly easy process. Just take your time and mark the hole location carefully. I read on the forum where one guy removed the cowling, lined up a laser pointer with the bolt hole, put the cowling back on and marked it with the laser. I didn't go that far but it seemed like a pretty good idea. I think I used a 1" hole saw and a cordless drill. Pretty painless. Good luck.

Any Gen 1 experiences with Cut required or No-Cut sliders that could help a fella make a decision one way or the other? I've noticed some of the manufactures are not offering Gen 1 sliders, I assume from the limited space between fairing opening to the frame availability. Hence the No-Cut versions come with expensive bracket. Is the opinion of the No-Cut option that the bracket will hold up to a incident??? Opinions??

Curious in Southern MD.
 
The no-cut sliders such as these from GSG Moko are a sturdy piece and are less likely to break the frame in a crash. The cut versions for GENIs and most all GENII sliders, mount lower and *seem* to protect the plastic a little better in tip overs. The latter both mount using the lower engine mount bolt. There have been instances of bent engine mount bolts and /or broken frames depending on the severity of the get-off.

Pick your poison... ;)

--G

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I gues i don't get it.... I mean honestly the damned things are overrated.

If or when you crash they really don't do fuk. Granted they may reduce somewhat the damage I've yet to see a crashed bike here that didn't need panel repair/ replacement an the sliders are fuked to boot!

These are a "cool Kid" thing IMHO.. Spend the 200 bucks on beer or MSF course..

 
Shut up bust!!!! :p Mine saved the fairing, but not the stator cover. Didn't burn through, though, so it's still there. As is the rashed side bag.

Chicks dig scars.

(Or so I've heard . . . .)

But yeah, anything beyond a tipover or a simple low-side, the sliders ain't gonna do squat for you. If you really crash the bike, it'll just be another piece that can catch on something.

But for the OP's satisfaction, get the cut kind, they're just a straight shot into the engine mount. The hole you have to make in the fairing is covered up by the slider. Mine are R&G.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yea I've looked at the GSG, Motovation, and T-REX No-Cut and compared to the cut version pics it seems the cut version are mounted lower and might protect Fairing better depending on incident but the No-Cuts might save the engine mount point being indirectly attached (bracket might give way prior to engine mount point).

The T-rex costs are comparable to the Cut slider makers so has anyone used their products?

 
I'm cheap. When I bought mine the cut type were about half the price. Ironically the holes were cut in exactly the same place as the plastic was scratched from a tip over.

But you have to take them off every time you want to remove the lowers. fwiw

 
The other thing you have to look for in the slider is a metal sleeve. Without the sleeve, you'll be squeezing the Delrin when you torque the slider down, and it will give eventually. When it does, the bolt is loose.

On a bracket, that may not be as much of an issue, but if the slider is in the engine mount directly, that loose bolt can allow the engine to move in the frame, and possibly stress the remaining mount points.

I don't think the TREX sliders have the metal sleeve.

Of the ones you've linked, I'd go with the Motovation race slider, or look at R&G here.

 
get the R&G's from England (only good choice for Gen I)...they are the bomb and that's what WFooshee was running

granted they are >$100, but what's ya plastic and ya limbs worth?...$750 panels suck to replace, not to mention a crushed leg

https://www.rg-racing.com/browseBike/Yamaha/FJR1300/2004/CP0060BL.aspx

48.33 GBP = $74.52 then add shipping which is ?

EDIT: I see Walt (WFooshee) found a US supplier - twisted throttle.com - for a year or so, all US suppliers stopped selling them...I purchased mine direct from R&G in England

good deal

the ebay cheepies are you get what you pay for...there are pics here of them breaking off and failing to save the fairing...and you definitely don't want the way cheepies that do not have a metal sleeve inside the plastic to keep it from deforming

as far as I know (from past checking), there are no Moki or OES for Gen I bikes...those are very good sliders for the price, but only Gen II

no cut...the bracket bolts to the frame and those mounts are weak...sucks to break a bolt in a frame hole (steel bolt in aluminum hole), or strip out the threads, or worse, bend the frame

slider mounting bolts are meant to replace a motor mount bolt...you have to drill a hole through the plastic on Gen I, but I was able to just eye it up drilling a 1/8" hold till I had it where I wanted and then drill the 1/2" ??? hole...the slider hides a slightly imperfect hole.

I didn't even take the plastic off to do it

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Shut up bust!!!! :p Mine saved the fairing, but not the stator cover. Didn't burn through, though, so it's still there. As is the rashed side bag.

Chicks dig scars.

(Or so I've heard . . . .)

But yeah, anything beyond a tipover or a simple low-side, the sliders ain't gonna do squat for you. If you really crash the bike, it'll just be another piece that can catch on something.

But for the OP's satisfaction, get the cut kind, they're just a straight shot into the engine mount. The hole you have to make in the fairing is covered up by the slider. Mine are R&G.

You shut up Walt!! I had TOG's when I went down and still bruised me Testicles.. I had sliders on my GSX and it was totaled plus $223.78 fer the sliders..My balls got bruised then too/....

I guess I'm just sayin yer balls are banged sliders or not.. :lol:

 
Now I know yer lyin'!!!! Yer balls are in the nightstand, locked up by the missus, so you never bruised nothin' during a bike crash except your knees and elbows. ;)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The other thing you have to look for in the slider is a metal sleeve. Without the sleeve, you'll be squeezing the Delrin when you torque the slider down, and it will give eventually. When it does, the bolt is loose.

On a bracket, that may not be as much of an issue, but if the slider is in the engine mount directly, that loose bolt can allow the engine to move in the frame, and possibly stress the remaining mount points.

I don't think the TREX sliders have the metal sleeve.

Of the ones you've linked, I'd go with the Motovation race slider, or look at R&G here.
The T-Rex frame sliders use a threaded aircraft aluminum sleeve that is bolted/torqued on first, then the delrin is threaded onto the sleeve and fixed in place with a recessed allen bolt at the side.

N69_6-url.jpg


 
I have the Motovation Sliders, which are no cut. I liked the idea that there might be some flex or dispersion of impact because of the bracket.

I had a slow speed get off. Lady ran a red light and I almost got stopped before tapping her and bouncing off. Bike tipped over to the left and I had to go to the ground with it. The slider saved all the plastic with only some minor scuffing on the stator cover.

They also created a space between the bike and the ground ( I didn't have the bags on ) so my leg wasn't smashed by the weight of the bike.

They might just be for the cool kids but I'm always going to have a pair on the bike.

 
I've got the Moko sliders. Tested them a year & a half ago when somebody who didn't stop turned left in front of me and I went down after I missed him from the sand in the middle of the intersection. Ground about 3/4" off a corner of the right slider, and a shitload off the right bag. Also bent my Wild Bill highway peg bracket, and ground/cracked the PHID on that side, but that was it. Oh, and I broke my right shoulder blade and two ribs, but I heal fast and don't whine :) . But the Moko sliders worked well.

 
I'm thinking to add the cut sliders from Motovation just as tip-over insurance, but I would think in any accident scenario, you're going to go over the insurance deductible pretty fast, sliders or no sliders. I did see Russ's sliders in action on the FJ1, and that was pretty impressive. :unsure:

 
I have Motovation no cuts and they look great. Haven't used 'em yet, and hope not to so....

 
Top