1st oil change. Did I miss something?

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Buz

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Just did my 1st oil change yesterday at 598 miles. Also changed the final drive gear oil.

My question is: There was no washer on the main oil drain plug. It was just the plug itself.

I did the oil change and re-torqued the plug and all is fine, no dripping even after a good ride.

Was I supposed to purchase a washer at the bike store first?

Did I miss something?

Oh, and when they say the oil drain plug is over-torqued from the factory they aren't kidding! Though I broke the head off the bolt when it finally let go.

 
There was no washer on the main oil drain plug. It was just the plug itself.
Was I supposed to purchase a washer at the bike store first?

Did I miss something?
Probably. The crush washer can meld to the surface and may need to be picked away with a tip of a screwdriver. Fingernails sometimes don't cut it.

Buy some fresh washers or a copper one...as has been shared in a variety of NEPRT like places on the forum.

 
Just did my 1st oil change yesterday at 598 miles. Also changed the final drive gear oil.
My question is: There was no washer on the main oil drain plug. It was just the plug itself.

I did the oil change and re-torqued the plug and all is fine, no dripping even after a good ride.

Was I supposed to purchase a washer at the bike store first?

Did I miss something?

Oh, and when they say the oil drain plug is over-torqued from the factory they aren't kidding! Though I broke the head off the bolt when it finally let go.
What, you couldn't drive it 2 more miles.
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Dave
winksmiley02.gif
Just kiddin,

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Should have a gasket there!Have a look in the microfiche:The number 12/ Gasket214-11198-01-00
https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/5004d79ff87002275461da69/oil-cooler
Well I'll be darned.

I guess it was melded to the bottom of the engine block because it definitely wans't on the plug and it wasn't in the oil drain pan either.

Come to think of it, the way that plug was over-torqued from the factory, it's no wonder it was fused to the block.

Looks like I'm good to go barring any type of dripping situation, no?

Thank you for the quick replies.

 
Dude, I suspect it was attached to the bolt. It looked very much like the head of the bold and can be real hard to see.

If you get bored you need to go ahead a grease everthing. They do not put enough grease on these things from the factory. Grease the throtle tube, brake lever, Clutch Leaver (small brass bushing), break pedal, Center and side stands, and the shift lever.

If I had it to do over again i would also lube my relay arm right from jump street, but to each their own.

Others will disagree, but I pulled the caliper bolts one at a time and put some anti-sieze on them. I have no desire to strip the lower caliper bolt, and that seems to happen pretty often on these things.

Did the color of the oil scare the crap out of you? How about the diff fluid?

Hope you enjoy the bike.

 
+1 to all that.

Also, don't bother torquing any bolts that use crush washers. Just snug 'em up until the crush washer, well, crushes.

And the flatter surface of the washer goes toward the engine side, with the 'seamed' side toward the head of the bolt

See this

 
My crush washer was melted on to the head of the bolt from day one. It's still there and not a drop of oil from it in 6 years. Go Ride!
smile.png


 
+1 on leave the crush washer there--mine's never leaked a drop and it's still factory after many changes. Unless you're bored and want to make stuff up to do....

 
I just did my 1st change also. 645 miles. Oil was very clean - looked almost like the new stuff. I was surprised at that. Had a time getting the filter off - no filter wrench. Guy at factory must be an animal. Will trailer my bike to Texas next week to ride when I'm not bicycling with my group. Going to Fredericksburg and Inks Lake.

 
If you do the 600 mile oil change yourself, does it affect or invalidate the warranty?
Besides eng and rear oil, what else does the shop do?

 
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