1st oil change

[Shawn]

Just changed the oil, filter, & rear end using info found here - thanks...

Lot simpler than the BMW was!

My oil drain plug was waaay over 31 ft/lbs -- when I put it back in (with new crush washer - installed properly), I stopped at 25 ft/lbs.

Now to ride!

 

[dcarver]

It appears the same gorilla who torqued my oil nut did yours too. Damn factory gorilla.

 

[Old Michael]

It appears the same gorilla who torqued my oil nut did yours too. Damn factory gorilla.

Don, LEFTY loosie.

 

[old&slow]

Just changed the oil, filter, & rear end using info found here - thanks...
Lot simpler than the BMW was!

My oil drain plug was waaay over 31 ft/lbs -- when I put it back in (with new crush washer - installed properly), I stopped at 25 ft/lbs.

Now to ride!

FYI,,,

I haven't even been taking it up to 25 ft. lbs. ,,,, the rear end has the same size bolt ,, same crush washer ,, and only suppose to be

17 ft. lbs. ,,,,,, only been going to 17 ft. lbs .... haven't had any problems,,,

Have NO idea when the 31 ft. lbs. in the spec book came from ....

 

[ctfjr]

It appears the same gorilla who torqued my oil nut did yours too. Damn factory gorilla.

LOL

When I picked my bike up at D&H last year I rode to St Louis & did the 1st service at Knifemaker's. We had to put a pipe extention on the ratchet to break the oil plug free. Mighty big factory gorillas!

 

[YAM TOM]

Did my first oil change to, sure made everything easy to get til drain bolt differential fill and drain bolts all the same size Changed mine at 800 mi oil still looked clean

 

[Wee Willy]

It appears the same gorilla who torqued my oil nut did yours too. Damn factory gorilla.

LOL

When I picked my bike up at D&H last year I rode to St Louis & did the 1st service at Knifemaker's. We had to put a pipe extention on the ratchet to break the oil plug free. Mighty big factory gorillas!

Took a breaker bar to get my case plug off the first time. Was really starting to get worried about what I was doing to the aluminum case threads.

W2

 

[Alakso]

Same here with using a breaker bar to remove the engine/trans oil drain plug the first time I changed my oil. Luckily it looks like the FJR engine/trans cases are made out of forged Aluminum. Try using a stubby ratchet to install the drain plug which will limit the amount of Tq. your applying to the drain bolt.

 

[Alakso]

One more thing, I think the rear Diff is cast so be extra careful when tightening up that drain plug. Both the engine/trans and Diff drain plugs just need to be snug to make an oil tight seal.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Both the engine/trans and Diff drain plugs just need to be snug to make an oil tight seal.

Apparently...?, at the Yamaha factory they can be installed tighter'n hell -- and everything's okay...?

 

[Alakso]

Both the engine/trans and Diff drain plugs just need to be snug to make an oil tight seal.

Apparently...?, at the Yamaha factory they can be installed tighter'n hell -- and everything's okay...?

The factory is probably using an automated air driver to install the plug. Luckily forged Aluminum can take quite a beating but isn't bullet-proof. Over torqueing can and will strip the threads especially when done repeatedly. No fun having to Heli-coil when the engine is together.

 

[OkieBikerDude]

Old&slow had it right. 17#'s for the crankcase AND final drive drain plugs. I use a final drive drain plug in my engine crankcase to get the benefit of a magnet. I have learned that "greasy" stuff on the magnet is ok; filings bad. (I've owned BMW's in the past. That's how I learned).

OBD