2006 FJR1300AE Mutiple Problems Needing Help

[glennizen]

Hello All,

I have recently acquired What is basically a basket case.

Here is some back story on it: This is an interesting bike with an interesting background: It was a factory technician training vehicle and has never been registered, titled, etc. I bought it last month from a technician at a Los Angeles Job Training School. He acquired it from the school when they were finished with it. It had been donated to the school from Yamaha Corp. after it had served its usefulness as a trainer. It has a total of 13 miles on it, I think.

The VIN stamp on the frame has been cut out. I have the directions on the process to get a new VIN assigned and then registered and titled.

The guy I got it from said that he took it to a Yamaha dealer in L.A. and they told him it needs a new ECU. I don't necessarily believe them (L.A. mc dealers are notorious for ripping off customers) and am going through it to see what I can see before investing in a new ECU. In that process so far I have gotten an error code for the Intake Air Pressure Sensor (open or short circuit). At least that is what it seems to be telling me as far as I can decode it according to the Service Manual. Please go easy on me, gentlemen. I am new to this type of bike and although I have worked on many bikes over the years, they have all been older bikes without so much electronics. I have not read the entire service manual yet, but I am making my way through it as best I can.

Here is a pic of the instrument panel:

The light with the engine icon next to it indicates an engine problem, does it not?

And the number 13 there. Is that an error code?

There appears to be no spark to the plugs.

Also, I found a couple of unconnected electrical connectors. Can anyone help identify them?

Thank you

 

[glennizen]

Chuck35, Really? So even though this is the Automatic Shift model, I should go for the 09-12 ECU?

 

[glennizen]

I have been reading the manual diligently since asking this question and I believe I have worked out the correct answer. I am basically now just seeking confirmation that my diagnosis is correct and that I haven't overlooked anything. And also I have a couple of new unconnected connectors that I need help identifying.

Thank you in advance for your kind consideration

Also, someone suggested that if I buy a new ECU, that I should get the one for the '09-12 model. Does anyone else recommend this? Why?

P.S. Do I understand correctly that this bike has 3 ECUs? The ABS has an ECU. The Automatic Shifter has an ECU. And the Ignition, Fuel, and other systems have an ECU. Is that correct? And the main ECU that is probably malfunctioning is the one directly under the rider's seat, as seen in the picture above?

 

[Queensland Ken]

Hi, That connector looks like the S1 neutral spider, maybe, lol.

It's a neutral connector for the ECU, tail lights and rear brake switch etc....

Are all the wires colour coded black ?, if so it is.

There is a copper bridging piece, that looks like a spider, that shorts/bridges out the entire connector block.

The early Gen2 ECU's had a few fueling problems and had a recall on them.

A 09 or latter would be a better option if needed.

The bike can still start and run with an error code 13, the ECU defaults to a baseline number for fueling, may run a bit rich.

Suggest clear any codes and see what happens.

The engine management light is a different kettle of fish ! Esp if that is your S1 neutral connector not bridged out.

 

[glennizen]

Hi, That connector looks like the S1 neutral spider, maybe, lol.It's a neutral connector for the ECU, tail lights and rear brake switch etc....

Are all the wires colour coded black ?, if so it is.

The early Gen2 ECU's had a few fueling problems and had a recall on them.

A 09 or latter would be a better option if needed.

Excellent! Thank you so much for your input. That might turn out to be very helpful. So there wouldn't be an issue with the automatic shifting system with an later ECU?

I just checked the color coding on the two unconnected connectors. The wires from both of them have brown splotches on them. All of them. Both plugs.

Also, my brake light doesn't seem to be working.

I have looked at and traced the wiring as much as possible without disassembling some things, and I cannot see any potential receptacles that aren't already connected. What am I missing?

Here is a closer picture:

 

[Queensland Ken]

That white connector must be bridged, as in shorted out by a bridging piece, that looks like a spider.

Have a looky at the diagram above, the high current neutrals are daisy chained back to the battery.

At the moment, your tail lights, license plate light, brake light switch and ECU will not be working.

If you want to cut off the connector and solder the wires all up together.

The S4 spider was a recall and the S6 and S7 spiders can fail as well, has been a few cases of it.

 

[glennizen]

Ah, very good, Ken. Thank you. Since you mentioned the Spider in your first post, I have been reading the "Bitten by the spider" thread. And I downloaded the diagram from that thread. I went and looked at the bike again and sure enough, the parking light, brake light, and tag light don't work. Also, are the headlights supposed to be on when I turn on the switch?

I still don't see where it was supposed to go, but I guess I will have to decipher the whole thing with the diagrams.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Headlights do not turn on until the motor starts. So, when the key gets turned on, only the marker lights come on. On ignition, the headlamps come on. I if you turn off the key, all lights are out. If you use the kill switch, all lights will stay on...and kill your battery. Lol...

Good luck with this. I think you're in for a bigger learning experience than you think, but maybe you'll get lucky. I hope it works out for you.

 

[RadioHowie]

Headlights on when motor runs.

Good luck with your project.

 

[glennizen]

Good info on the headlights guys. I knew that that was the case on many bikes. Just wasn't sure on this one. And thanks for the good wishes.

Ken, I found another S block connector and saw the spider! I finally! saw what was missing from this one. An end cap - which is properly called a "bridge" or "spider", eh? So I can cut the connector off and solder all five wires to each other and achieve the desired result? Is that what you meant?

 

[RadioHowie]

Yep...and many, in addition to soldering the wires together, have added another wire to the soldered bunch to run back to the battery for good-measure, ground-wise.

 

[glennizen]

Yep...and many, in addition to soldering the wires together, have added another wire to the soldered bunch to run back to the battery for good-measure, ground-wise.

Outstanding! It would be too cool if all that was wrong with this bike is a missing "spider". Like someone took it off and neglected to - or intentionally didn't put it back on.

Thanks again. I'm pumped to try this fix out.

 

[Queensland Ken]

As the other members suggested, run a new main neutral wire back to the neutral of the battery.

Eventually you can splice in new pigtails from the other bridging spiders, esp the S4 S6 and S7.

Just solder a wire onto the bridging pieces when the time comes.

At least that spider is easy to work on, S6 & S7 not so.

Keep going, you may have a real winner there.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Chuck35, Really? So even though this is the Automatic Shift model, I should go for the 09-12 ECU?

No, get the proper ECU for the bike. There was also a recall for altitude sickness on some FJRs so ECU will have a revised part number.

Quite a project you have there.

Good luck!

--G

 

[glennizen]

Thanks again, Ken. I really appreciate your help You Aussies are good blokes. One of my best friends lives near Brisbane.

 

[glennizen]

Thanks 'scape

 

[Chuck35]

Chuck35, Really? So even though this is the Automatic Shift model, I should go for the 09-12 ECU?

I'm not certain about the AE, but the later ecu works on my 08 A model.

 

[glennizen]

Cool. Thanks guys. BTW, since the original topic for this thread was identifying the electrical connector that was id'ed in the second post, I started a new thread to dwelve into the no-start problem: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/160470-2006-fjr1300ae-wont-start-help-diagnose-please/

Thanks again.

 

[Bounce]

Threads merged.

Topic (header) updated.

Distracting fluff in the middle cleaned up.

 

[glennizen]

Hi guys. Thank you again for all your help yesterday

So this morning I have cut off the S1 connector and spliced the wires together with a ground wire run back to the battery (they are temporarily bundled prior to soldering, to make sure I have the connections right). See pic:

Good news is that the lights that weren't working (Tail Parking, Brake, Tag) now all work

Bad news: the starter - which worked fine yesterday - won't turn. Press the start button: nothing. The bike is on its center stand, the side stand is up, and it is in neutral.

Also: I have yet to identify this connector:

Any thoughts?