2007 Windshield retract electrical connector

[nwrider1]

I've researched everything I could find on the windshield auto-retract disable. Most of the information is for the 2005 and earlier editions. While I was able to locate and disconnect the male end of the plug, I want to remove the female end that is supposed to just have a loop wire (jumper) to use as a switched source for a relay. I've not been able to get a mirror & light to illuminate the area to determine if 1) it is in fact just a loop on the female end and it's zip tied or anchored to other wiring, or 2) if it's not a loop (jumper) and is part of a continuing wire in the loom on the 2007 and later models.

Who has actually removed the female connector that can describe how it's configured and held in place on an 07?

TIA

John

 

[Ignacio]

How about the Bin O' Facts we suggested you read when you sign up? I see a link in there of Gen 2 specific details.

 

[nwrider1]

How about the Bin O' Facts we suggested you read when you sign up? I see a link in there of Gen 2 specific details.

Yes, I've read that thread. However, the question I have is not answered in that long post. The last comment, "Yes, seems tied in really tightly. It can rock a little, but other than that it won't budge.", didn't definitively state how the female end was attached or if it was possible to remove without disassembling the front end.

So, if anyone has been able to disconnect the female end without taking the whole front end apart, please let me know.

 

[Crash Cash]

Yeah, I've done it, and it was a bitch finding the connector. The Gen II does not have the loop connector bit any more. It's a continual circuit situation, as you mention.

That threw me off too. There's a post somewhere that mentions this, but I can't find it. Also, it was a real pain to get the locking clip to release, and I think I had to track down a mini screwdriver somewhere. I think it was also wrapped in electrical tape, but I'll go and dig it out and take a look.

EDIT: I removed the panels and went back the the now-disconnected connector. The wiring extends right on back into the retract mechanism area for several inches, as far as I can get my big Fat-American hand in there and trace it. The connector itself is not held in place, but the wiring is shrinkwrapped to 6 other wires going to a very large connector that has no play or movement at all, on my bike at least.

I wish there was enough play to install a switch where I could enable/disable the auto-retract at-will.

 

[nwrider1]

Crash Cash,

Thanks for your timely response. I just got through further dismantling the dash area to the point where I could just get a mirror in there and see that the two black wires from the female connector dissapeared into a harness --- I thought, perhaps, the harness may have been just a protective sleeve to prevent chaffing where it went under a zip tie. However, you've certainly clarified that for me. I guess I'll just fill the end of the female plug with some RTV or just tape over it so it won't corrode and make up another lead for the +12v out of the male plug. This really should be appended to the end of the 06+ FAQ thread.

John

Yeah, I've done it, and it was a bitch finding the connector. The Gen II does not have the loop connector bit any more. It's a continual circuit situation, as you mention.
That threw me off too. There's a post somewhere that mentions this, but I can't find it. Also, it was a real pain to get the locking clip to release, and I think I had to track down a mini screwdriver somewhere. I think it was also wrapped in electrical tape, but I'll go and dig it out and take a look.

EDIT: I removed the panels and went back the the now-disconnected connector. The wiring extends right on back into the retract mechanism area for several inches, as far as I can get my big Fat-American hand in there and trace it. The connector itself is not held in place, but the wiring is shrinkwrapped to 6 other wires going to a very large connector that has no play or movement at all, on my bike at least.

I wish there was enough play to install a switch where I could enable/disable the auto-retract at-will.

 

[Crash Cash]

I guess I'll just fill the end of the female plug with some RTV or just tape over it so it won't corrode and make up another lead for the +12v out of the male plug. This really should be appended to the end of the 06+ FAQ thread.

Well, I left my plugs alone, in case I ever wanted to hook it back up. As for power, the battery's right there... Are you looking for switched power? I think there'd be better places for switched power, but I've never needed it myself.

 

[nwrider1]

I thought I might as well use the +12v switched lead from the windshield auto retract since I'm also installing heated grips with Heat Troller and a Powerlet in the same area. I'll just run it to the relay, which I'll mount where the solenoid was for the glovebox.

I guess I'll just fill the end of the female plug with some RTV or just tape over it so it won't corrode and make up another lead for the +12v out of the male plug. This really should be appended to the end of the 06+ FAQ thread.

Well, I left my plugs alone, in case I ever wanted to hook it back up. As for power, the battery's right there... Are you looking for switched power? I think there'd be better places for switched power, but I've never needed it myself.

 

[nwrider1]

After doing several more Google searches, I found that Eastern Beaver sells the same Sumitomo .09 connector: part number: ZP090K-SMHM for $2.19. So you could use a new female end with just the +12v wired out to a switched relay.

 

[Crash Cash]

After doing several more Google searches, I found that Eastern Beaver sells the same Sumitomo .09 connector: part number: ZP090K-SMHM for $2.19. So you could use a new female end with just the +12v wired out to a switched relay.

Is that ZP or 2P on that part number? And how do you know it fits?

 

[nwrider1]

You're correct, it's 2P090K-SMHM. I found a post -- don't remember where now, where a fellow ordered that part and reported that it was a perfect fit. So, I think I'm going to order a PC8 power distribution panel and a harness for the FJR with the proper connector for the switched source and run everything back to the PDB.

After doing several more Google searches, I found that Eastern Beaver sells the same Sumitomo .09 connector: part number: ZP090K-SMHM for $2.19. So you could use a new female end with just the +12v wired out to a switched relay.

Is that ZP or 2P on that part number? And how do you know it fits?

 

[nwrider1]

I can now confirm that the Sumitomo 2P090K-SMHM connector from Eastern Beaver is identical to the windshield auto-retract connector. I just finished using it for the switched source to a PC8 for my handgrips with the heat troller mounted in the left switch housing. The +6" pos lead and a 42" harness was perfect to allow the harness to go between the tank and the heat shield back to the area just behind the tool kit. As a side note, I only used one of the leads from the windshield auto-retract connector -- both were +12v.

 

[Crash Cash]

I can now confirm that the Sumitomo 2P090K-SMHM connector from Eastern Beaver is identical to the windshield auto-retract connector.

Yeahhh! Thanks. I'll get both genders of that bad boy and a small DPST switch, and set it up so I can switch off the auto-retract. I like it on, except when I'm trying to wash the screen.

 

[RZ350]

Yeahhh! Thanks. I'll get both genders of that bad boy and a small DPST switch, and set it up so I can switch off the auto-retract. I like it on, except when I'm trying to wash the screen.

Hey Crash - it seems we have similar thoughts on another mod to the bike. I want to be able to easily select whether this feature is active or not. I like the auto-retract for the daily commute so my bike cover fits better at work. However, on long rides, it a pain to keep running the screen back up after every stop. So I finally decided to do this mod and was doing a quick google site search and this thread popped up with my local riding buddy having the same idea in mind.

So my questions to you (or anyone else) are this. If you've done it, did it work the way you intended it to. Is there an easy spot to mount the switch? I think I would be fine with it just being hidden out of sight somewhere down in the cowling where the fork tubes pass through, but haven't looked around yet.

Luckily, I have the spare '08 harness that should provide an extra connector/jumper loop that I can add a switch to ahead of time. The existing one on the bike will be unplugged and just left dangling if I want to revert back to stock.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.