2008 won't go into neutral when stopped, shift fine when rolling

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Greetings,

Still swinging from East Coast to Texas. Well, home for the weekend, riding on a trip.

Notice, bike won't go into neutral while stopped at light.

Shifts just fine when the bike is rolling.

When I attempt to shift, it skips over Neutral goes to first or second. have to really press hard to shift...didn't do this before.

Well awhile back it was difficult, but after riding it got better.

Any thoughts on what may be going on here? 42k miles....is it time for a clutch basket clean & soak?

Of course it get's the fresh oil and fluids as required.

Thanksl

 

[RossKean]

Quite possible that you need to lube the pivots on the shifter. It makes quite a big difference.

 

[ahchiu]

Have you flushed the clutch fluid?

 

[bernie1]

My 03 did the same thing. The large pivot for the shifter was very dry, and I very seldom ride in the rain. I installed a grease zerk and have not had a problem since. Bernie

 

[wfooshee]

It won't be the clutch itself, but the release of the clutch.

Since you can get neutral while moving, but the shifter is hard when stopped, it may well be the clutch not releasing fully. You have to use enough force on the shifter that you pass right through neutral.

Bleed the clutch hydraulics, see if it don't shape up better.

Grungy shift lever pivot may be the culprit, but I think you'd have other issues, like the lever not centering sometimes, making the next gear hard to select because the shifter hasn't ratcheted.

 

[CCook82]

What wfooshee said

 

[kamal]

My '04 was doing the same thing last year. I refreshed and bled the clutch fluid, which helped but didn't cure the problem.

A search led me to this '08 post: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=108280 so I disassembled and lubed the linkage, which was very dry - problem solved.

As suggested above, if you do both you should get it.

Good luck.

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

OK, pulled off the shift pivot and greased well, pretty dry.

Greased the rod joints as well....what I could get in there.

Re-assembled and no change....like would not go from 1 to N , straight to 2nd.

So I then, did a bleed on the clutch, since it was right there...Clutch fluid sure was dirty to have been changed a month ago.

Had some foamy bubbles in the collection tubing....so took it all out.

Well, that didn't help either.

It won't shift smooth unless the bike is in motion......sitting still, it is hard locked to go beyond 2nd.

 

[Bounce]

I've always found it easier to shift while in motion. I never wait until stopped to get to first.

 

[wmadoty]

Sounds like you have some air in the clutch circuit. Are you sure your not getting some back in their while you are bleeding it? Maybe a slave leaking, but I doubt it. I guess it is also possible that you have a burr in the basket, but again, I doubt it. Sounds like air in the system. Maybe the plates are sticking real bad as well. Should be able to check that on the center stand.

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Something else that comes to notice.

When the bike is in gear and clutch is pulled it usually rolls easily.

Now when I do that, it is very difficult to roll.

It's probably something around the clutch...perhaps I need to vacuum the system rather than loosen/press bleeding.

Need this to function properly, because when coming to a stop sign, and you need to do anything you have to hold the clutch because the bike won't go into neutral.....that is a bit dangerous and tiring to the hands.

 

[900gc]

The only thing I can add is that perhaps the hydraulic line has developed a very small leak in the hose or connectors and its not creating enough pressure to allow the clutch slave to operate fully. The bike not rolling easily when in gear with the lever squeezed would seem to indicate the clutch basket is still hooking up some.

 

[RossKean]

Something else that comes to notice.When the bike is in gear and clutch is pulled it usually rolls easily.

Now when I do that, it is very difficult to roll.

It's probably something around the clutch...perhaps I need to vacuum the system rather than loosen/press bleeding.

Need this to function properly, because when coming to a stop sign, and you need to do anything you have to hold the clutch because the bike won't go into neutral.....that is a bit dangerous and tiring to the hands.

With the bike on the center stand and the engine running at idle, does the rear tire move with the clutch pulled? If so, can it be easily stopped by hand? Similarly, if you are stopped on a level surface with the clutch pulled in first, will the bike creep forward unless brake is applied? If this is the case, I would suggest that you are not getting full disengagement - perhaps due to improper clutch bleeding. Alternatively, sticky clutch plates could be responsible although I wouldn't think it would necessarily make it difficult to shift into neutral.

 

[08FJR4ME]

There is a little knob that says 1,2,3,4,5 try different settings and see if that works. Ocasionally I will get that situation and If I just feather the clutch she will shift just fine.

Dave

 

[Bounce]

Need this to function properly, because when coming to a stop sign, and you need to do anything you have to hold the clutch because the bike won't go into neutral.....that is a bit dangerous and tiring to the hands.

Am I understadning right? You put it in neutral when at a stop sign/light? The dangerous part is the extra time to shift before take off if someone decides to occupy the space you happen to be taking. Best to keep it in first with the clutch in and scan your 6 for idiots.

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Need this to function properly, because when coming to a stop sign, and you need to do anything you have to hold the clutch because the bike won't go into neutral.....that is a bit dangerous and tiring to the hands.

Am I understadning right? You put it in neutral when at a stop sign/light? The dangerous part is the extra time to shift before take off if someone decides to occupy the space you happen to be taking. Best to keep it in first with the clutch in and scan your 6 for idiots.

Not necessarily at stop lights all the time; not in traffic at least. There are times when just parked you want the bike in neutral.....

 

[Old Guy]

Something else that comes to notice.When the bike is in gear and clutch is pulled it usually rolls easily.

Now when I do that, it is very difficult to roll.

It's probably something around the clutch...perhaps I need to vacuum the system rather than loosen/press bleeding.

Need this to function properly, because when coming to a stop sign, and you need to do anything you have to hold the clutch because the bike won't go into neutral.....that is a bit dangerous and tiring to the hands.

It may be worth mentioning, and at risk of making this an oil thread, that I had the same symptoms a few years back with a Kawasaki after switching from 10w40 to 20w50. Warm weather it was fine; cool weather, the clutch dragged.

Barring that, I'll join the club and say you've got some air in the clutch hydraulics somewhere. It can be really hard to get it all.

 

[Bounce]

Need this to function properly, because when coming to a stop sign, and you need to do anything you have to hold the clutch because the bike won't go into neutral.....that is a bit dangerous and tiring to the hands.

Am I understadning right? You put it in neutral when at a stop sign/light? The dangerous part is the extra time to shift before take off if someone decides to occupy the space you happen to be taking. Best to keep it in first with the clutch in and scan your 6 for idiots.

Not necessarily at stop lights all the time; not in traffic at least. There are times when just parked you want the bike in neutral.....

if that's the case, then i just snick into neutral right before coming to a complete stop. but i always park in gear to keep the bike from rolling off the side/center stand.

 

[FJR-RemingtonRider]

Something I thought about while reading another thread, and the above post.

I switched to a synthetic oil the last change awhile back. Normally used Mobil Delvac....

During my travels the bike sits for 10-14 days at a time. I ride couple hundred miles, it sits for weeks, ride and sits. Perhaps the oil is not lasting that way.

It's only been 2k miles but around 6mths old.

I am going to switch back to Mobil Delvac this weekend and also do the above recommended test.

I will check for leaks, don't quite know how...but I will check.