2016 FJR1300A Check Engine Light On

[FJRTom]

Thanks, Ionbeam! Yes, I am blessed to live in Cave Creek...at least in the winter.

 

[Warpdrv]

Well I guess that Dull Gray 2015 is looking pretty good at this point....

Sorry Guys.... Hope you all get your issues fixed right quick....

 

[Niehart]

Once again, it's not just a FJR problem, all of the 2016 models with diagnostic system are getting strange codes. When the codes appear the ECU puts the bike in a protective mode that is built to keep the problems from escalating. And you know mama Yamaha is working hard on the fix.

 

[LKLD]

I hear the '17's have this issue fixed. :dirol:

Sorry guys, just my jealousy rearing it's ugly head. I seriously hope a fix is found soon.

 

[Fallingsand]

My dealer finally got whatever it was they needed to read and clear my cel.

Took them a long time to get whatever it was.

They were probably quite tired of seeing me and calling.

Mama Yamaha needs to pony up some cash for this dealer's labor costs.

 

[NTXFJR]

CEL event #4 happened this morning. I'm going to ask the dealer to put me in contact with technical support this afternoon when I get there because I get no concrete answers from customer support. All they can say is "take it into the dealer for diagnostics". As far as I know, I'm the only one that's had multiple occurrences with this issue. I think most of us recognize this as a firmware issue, my dealer certainly does, but what I'm looking for is exactly what it is that is triggering this event, and even though the true root might be a firmware issue, are there certain riding habits that I have that are aggravating the situation. Don't think so, as far as I know, I treat the bike the same way every time I ride.

 

[Fallingsand]

I was told when they cleared my cel that it was two separate fault triggers involved. One was the sidestand safety (indicating an extended sidestand while in gear, engine running) and the other was an engine stall fault.

I did trigger the sidestand once just after picking up the bike. The tech said the other was caused by shutting off the bike from the ignition switch and the proper way to shut down was kill switch off, then ignition switch.

So perhaps mine was a double whammy and my cel may not have come had one of those fault triggers been absent.

Because it hasn't come back on, I largely don't care and can go back to enjoying the hell out of it.

Weather is too nice for me to worry at all about a "might reoccur".

 

[NTXFJR]

So I went over to the dealer again this afternoon to get CEL #4 turned off and the service manager there was finally able to get some skinny on this issue from mother ship. The CEL in my case was apparently being triggered by a non fluid turn on of the key switch. I have a lanyard with extra keys attached plus a ramball mounted on an MV riser plate not far away from it. Apparently some of this wad was catching sometimes and causing just enough of a hitch to make the bikes main relay (not sure exactly which one it is by name and the tech wasn't either, so I'm just calling it main relay for now) to double pulse the ecu. We tried that theory on my bike after clearing the CEL and sure enough it lit back up. There is still issues with P1601 side stand fault issues being logged, but for now at least, it looks like that is not what is triggering the dashboard light.

 

[SkooterG]

Very interesting. ....

 

[wheatonFJR]

I was told when they cleared my cel that it was two separate fault triggers involved. One was the sidestand safety (indicating an extended sidestand while in gear, engine running) and the other was an engine stall fault.
I did trigger the sidestand once just after picking up the bike. The tech said the other was caused by shutting off the bike from the ignition switch and the proper way to shut down was kill switch off, then ignition switch.

So perhaps mine was a double whammy and my cel may not have come had one of those fault triggers been absent.

Because it hasn't come back on, I largely don't care and can go back to enjoying the hell out of it.

Weather is too nice for me to worry at all about a "might reoccur".

I would say either that Tech was blowing smoke(likely), or the 16 is the only motorcycle evar that you can't turn off with the key.

I typically use the kill switch, but triggering a fault because you used the damn motorcycle key to turn it off? Bullcheet.

 

[Old Guy]

I would say either that Tech was blowing smoke(likely), or the 16 is the only motorcycle evar that you can't turn off with the key.

I typically use the kill switch, but triggering a fault because you used the damn motorcycle key to turn it off? Bullcheet.

That's sort of what I was thinking. I've never in my life heard anyone say you're supposed to use the kill switch except in the Beginners MSF class where you don't want beginners to let go of either bar with the engine running. If it creates problems to use anything but the kill switch, it's broken

 

[Halr]

Well, I can confirm NTXFJR's Ignition key CEL code trigger!

So I go to get on the bike after work. Turn the key and the dash lights come up normally. Crank the engine over a few times and notice it doesn't start up immediately like it normally does. Try it once more and then notice the key is just slightly not centered over the starting position and the off position. Like it's 3/4 of the way there but not completely. So I turn the key that extra 1/4 turn and then try the starter. Bike starts right away. However, I now look down at the dash to see the engine trouble light is on and it's not going away!

I'm pretty sure the system is reacting to the attempted starts and thinks there was a problem, but now the f##king light cannot be turned of except at a dealer. And, according to the manual there is no way to read the code without the Dealer's tools. What a pita! If this happens on the road, there is no way to tell if the code is legit or what it actually is about.

I've already experienced a crisis with this bike when I took delivery. They delivered the bike to me with the rear bleed nipple sheered off by an errant fork lift most likely through the end of the crate! I had mushy brakes by the time I drove 4 miles to my home! Did not discover the mess until I went to go for a ride 3 days later on the weekend and found a pool of fluid behind the bike! My front brakes have been horrible since day one because I think they hit or lifted the crate by the fork lift and ended up passing the fork lift through the front wheel(shipped sitting behind the rear wheel in the crate) and damaged the disks. When the front breaks heat up, they exhibit the rhythmic, signs of a warped disk...

There is a lot to like about this bike, but there are also some things like the ECU/codes that are really stupid for a sport touring bike expected to be out on the road with no way to read/reset the codes.
Has anyone figured out how to read the codes with a standard reader? All we need is the 4 wire connector! It needs 4 wires to be able to do the reset!

 

[HotRodZilla]

^^^^IF it were mine, that bike would be at the dealer until they fixed it correctly. After day 3, I'd be on the phone with Yamaha bugging the ever-loving **** out of someone.

 

[wheatonFJR]

^^^^IF it were mine, that bike would be at the dealer until they fixed it correctly. After day 3, I'd be on the phone with Yamaha bugging the ever-loving **** out of someone.

Yup! And get my money out of the company that hired that forklift driver.

 

[Viper Pilot]

Sure love my Gen 1!!!! LOL

 

[Halr]

The bike was back to the dealer the day I discovered the pool of brake fluid. I was so pissed with them the owner called me to assure me they were taking all this very seriously and he was going to get things fixed. He ended up replacing the Front wheel because it had a nick in the rim, but they just transferred the disks from the first wheel to the second. I think they should have replaced the whole assembly.

So I have 2100 miles on it and the front brake is the same as it was before. Grinds, pulsates, shudders, but only when the disk gets heated after a long or hard stop. By the next stop the disk is cooled and is relatively normal.

Took it to the same service manager and had him ride it again. His reaction when he came back was "Well, I feel something, but I'm not sure what it is and if it not normal for this bike!". He says he hasn't had a lot of new FJR's through the shop. Said he will call Yamaha about it. Also said maybe he would try to get a Yamaha rep to come ride it. Can't believe the FJR would have a "rough" braking system. My ST1300 brakes are smooth as glass compared to this bike. My friend is having his disks replace by the factory on his Super Tenere due to a similar problem with warping. Perhaps there was a bad batch of disk metallurgy?

 

[HotRodZilla]

The FJR's brakes do NOT shudder, grind, or make the bike shake. If you look around, one of the only things FJR owners don't screw with is the brakes. They are VERY GOOD, straight out of the box. The incompetent some dealers show is shocking!

 

[NTXFJR]

The FJR's brakes do NOT shudder, grind, or make the bike shake. If you look around, one of the only things FJR owners don't screw with is the brakes. They are VERY GOOD, straight out of the box. The incompetent some dealers show is shocking!

AJ's got it right, but you probably already know that. These bikes have smooth excellent brakes. You have already established a track record with the fluid leak and subsequent "fix". I'd have that thing back at the dealer telling them I want new rotors and pads installed NOW. The dealer might have to eat this one but oh well, you didn't cause the damage, they did. I would also call Yamaha customer service and let them know your issues so there's at least an official record, the dealer may or may not be recording all this. I'd also request the name and number of the Yamaha area service rep and let him know what's going on, he might be able to add a little extra heat on the dealer to make things happen for you. Right now, it sounds like the dealer doesn't have much to lose by running you around. There's always the better business bureau if he hedges you too much. I'd do this sooner than later before other damage happens from the increased wear and tear.

I asked my dealer about the firmware updates Yamaha did on the 16's, his response was that there are increasingly tougher federal mandates that the manufacturers have to comply with. It looks like the software guys overlooked some things and released the bikes before thorough testing was complete, and yes, taking the ability to reset cel's away from the owner is a real pain. As I understand it, logging into the ecu to read and reset faults is a function that now requires proprietary software available only to the dealer, not to us.

I've not had the cel issue come back since my dealer tech told me about the slow key on issue. If the switch is turned on with a snap action all has been good with my bike. The recorded P1601 side stand deployed fault it appears is a separate issue that Yamaha will have to do a service update on.

 

[thewrenchbender]

I was informed recently by a very knowledgeable & experienced import auto mechanic that the EPA is now looking at a "nuisance" PCM flash as a change to the vehicles certified status i.e. the modded program has to be re-cert'ed as if it had never before been tested.

Me getting my Whipple-charged F150 custom-flashed after the 50 state-approved Ford Racing flash was found lacking-sure, it you wanna go that far I illegally had the emissions profile modified.

But to say the manufacturer (or their agent) can't do it is madness IMHO.

 

[Prestone]

Just got my second check engine light on my 2016. I have a feeling mine is also non fluent turn of the key as well. I have a bar risers with a ball and my GPS so I have to reach behind it to turn the key on and off