$83 oil change?

[jim oneill]

As posted in NERPT I recently had my clutch soaked and clutch hydraulics serviced both under warranty on my 2013 because of hard shifting.

The dealer asked me what kind of oil I was using and I told them it was Mobil 1 motorcycle specific synthetic with a touch of STP to top it off. (as suggested many times here on the forum)

They told me I should never have used this and after completing the clutch service I agreed to have them change the oil and filter back to the original Yamalube 10/40 it was delivered with back in May.

I must admit the bike now shifts smooth as butter and even though I was not charged for the warranty work they did nail me for $83 for the 4 quarts of Yamalube and Yamaha filter and I suppose the labor to do it

I,ve always changed my own oil and filter and thought this was a tad high. When I mentioned it to the service manager he said that in fact he "let me off easy" and that oil and filter changes now range up to $100

Does this sound right? oh, and the tech suggested to not use synthetic and STP and to stay with Yamalube 10/40

Comments please?

 

[MCRIDER007]

I'm in the STP is a waste of money camp but don't see a cause/effect relationship in the oil you were using and your shifting problems. I also do not think Yamalube 10/40 is anything special except a nice profit for Yamaha but its hard to argue with your results. I would wait and see how your bike shifts after 4k miles and then decide what oil to use next time.

Yes, that was a pretty steep charge, they must use the shop labor rate and charge you for the time time it takes to drain the oil.

 

[MrZappo]

Well, the word "preposterous" comes to mind ... He is definitely hitting the Yamaha crack pipe ...

I have run Mobil 4T, Rotella T6, etc etc etc ... As long as it is motorcycle specific. It doesn't matter nearly as much as a lot of folks seem to think it does ...

So, not bowing to the gods of any brand, or to have an "oil thread", what he said is simply foolish ... Where does he think Yamalube comes from ? From the Yamaha refinery ? No, it comes from the lowest bid contract manufacturer who makes their "formula" ... Which is likely nearly identical to any other high quality motorcycle specific oil formula.

If your bike shifts more smoothly, it is probably due to the clutch service ...

And, $100 ? on an FJR ? It almost changes the oil for you ... Easiest bike I have ever had. Maybe $50 or $60 ...

Maybe a new dealer is in order ...

 

[ionbeam]

...the service manager he said that in fact he "let me off easy" and that oil and filter changes now range up to $100...Does this sound right? oh, and the tech suggested to not use synthetic and STP and to stay with Yamalube 10/40...

Yup, that sound right. You must use Yamaha oil, they explain it to you here and make it available in a FJR1300 specific package here for a mere $50 US bucks. The dealer is only charging you $33 to pour it in (not to mention the dealer gets the oil and filter at cost). Hey, trust them, it's not like they are trying to sell you something

On the other hand, any brand name, non-energy conserving oil will do your FJR just fine in spite of what your dealer is lying misdirecting you to do.

 

[RichDoyle]

Well, maybe they went "by the book"? My '13 maintenance manual is written in such a way as to suggest that an oil change is not just replacing the oil and filter. One most also hook up a special measuring gauge to check oil pressure and pop the right side cowling to get at an access bolt and make sure oil is flowing to the upper end. That'd easily double the time involved.

I'm sure we all do this, right?

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

I've always used Yamalube. I don't see the point of other oils when the manufacturer oil works just fine. My Yamaha has always "shifted like butter".

That being said the FJR is the EASIEST bike ever designed for you to do your own oil change. You can do it yourself for under $30.00 in about 15 minutes. Dealers will rape you raw with what they charge for oil changes. Its absurd.

 

[El Toro Joe]

You can do it yourself for under $30.00 in about 15 minutes.

Under $30.00, using Yamalube and a Yamaha filter?

 

[Chiefblueman]

I hope the dealer warned you about using Yamalube in off brand vehicles. Those other machines have no Yamas to lube which could cause serious issues due to the very special formulation of Yamalube. Jes wonderin', does Suzuki have their own specific oil? Suzylube?

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

You can do it yourself for under $30.00 in about 15 minutes.

Under $30.00, using Yamalube and a Yamaha filter?

Yep...$13 for the filter and you can usually find the Gallon Yamalube on sale like here. (sometimes my dealer discounts it & I always grab it then)

 

[Wlfman]

I've always used Yamalube. I don't see the point of other oils when the manufacturer oil works just fine. My Yamaha has always "shifted like butter".
That being said the FJR is the EASIEST bike ever designed for you to do your own oil change. You can do it yourself for under $30.00 in about 15 minutes. Dealers will rape you raw with what they charge for oil changes. Its absurd.

And lots of people don't see the point in spending 2-3 times more for the "manufacturers" oils when other cheaper oil "works just fine".

 

[NMRoadRunner]

I use Yamaha simi synthetic, 10-40wt, a yamaha filter, and new crush washer, cost $48.

 

[bgross]

If we don't all use home-grown, organic, locally-sourced, gluten-free recycled oil, the terrorists win!

 

[FJRacer]

I hope the dealer warned you about using Yamalube in off brand vehicles. Those other machines have no Yamas to lube which could cause serious issues due to the very special formulation of Yamalube. Jes wonderin', does Suzuki have their own specific oil? Suzylube?

Why yes, yes it does! Why let Yamaha(and Honda,etc.) rake in all the profits!

SuzyLube is the ONE manufacturers oil I use in my DR. All my crappy Bikes get Rotella.

 

[garyahouse]

Difficulty shifting: FWIW

My FJR seems to undergo a metamorphosis every time I change the oil: it ALWAYS shifts easier when I put new oil in it, no matter WHAT kind of oil it is. I've used a number of different oils, many recommended on this forum; some --- NOT.

But what I've learned by reading several sources recommended on this forum: your regular oil has additives that enable it to change viscosity as gets hot. Don't get mad at me, I'll be brief. Your 15W40 oil is actually 15 weight oil (thin) that thickens to 40 weight when it gets warm. The additive that makes that happen doesn't like things like gears. It breaks down and can no longer increase viscosity to nominal levels. Not only does viscosity suffer, but so also does film strength: OLD oil's ability to keep metal surfaces from actually contacting each other degrades over time. Bottom line: new oil trumps old oil.

One thing I cannot deny: fresh oil always shifts better than the stuff I took out.

83 bucks? I'm hunching you consider this a lesson learned: I'm willing to bet you'll never have your oil changed at a dealer again???

Gary

darksider #44

 

[rbentnail]

As many times as we have beaten the **** outta this subject I can't believe you fell for your dealer's crap. Is it going to kill your bike? Certainly not. But damn near any oil will work just fine, why pay out the nose for them to rape you?

The real lesson here is to never, ever discuss anything with anyone who even remotely has an interest in separating your cash from your wallet. Your dealer is there to make his money by taking yours. The best thing we can do when within earshot is to STFU.

 

[Redfish Hunter]

But what I've learned by reading several sources recommended on this forum: your regular oil has additives that enable it to change viscosity as gets hot. Don't get mad at me, I'll be brief. Your 15W40 oil is actually 15 weight oil (thin) that thickens to 40 weight when it gets warm. The additive that makes that happen doesn't like things like gears. It breaks down and can no longer increase viscosity to nominal levels.

Gary

darksider #44

Uh, Teacher? Are you sure about that? I am fairly certain that the oil gets thinner when hot, not thicker.

Of course, I always use pure Peanut Oil. I use it to fry fish, shrimp, oysters, chicken and French fries. I use hog lard to fry turkeys though.

 

[MCRIDER007]

But what I've learned by reading several sources recommended on this forum: your regular oil has additives that enable it to change viscosity as gets hot. Don't get mad at me, I'll be brief. Your 15W40 oil is actually 15 weight oil (thin) that thickens to 40 weight when it gets warm. The additive that makes that happen doesn't like things like gears. It breaks down and can no longer increase viscosity to nominal levels.

Gary

darksider #44

Uh, Teacher? Are you sure about that? I am fairly certain that the oil gets thinner when hot, not thicker.

Interesting comments and the answer is.................

 

[Fred W]

Oh jeeze.

 

[RichDoyle]

Well, the multi-weights don't actually thicken. They just have additives that inhibit viscosity loss at higher temperatures such that they exhibit the viscosity that a thicker oil would have at higher temperatures.

This stuff has been a godsend as they became available for aircraft engines. My plane (which is pretty typical) has a 360 cubic inch (5600 cc) engine with a battery the same size as as an FJR (also typical).