AE Stuttering

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I just called around a nobody really is familiar with this problem. Should that make any difference where I take it? This will be the first bike (out of like 12) that I've have to take to a shop, kind of nervous to have someone messing with it.
I am not familiar with your area, so I can't recommend a dealer.

It is not odd that you can't find anyone who is familiar with the problem. The problem does not appear to be widespread among AEs, and we all know that there are relatively few FJRs sold, and only a very very small number of AEs. You will find dealers who have NEVER sold either an FJR, let alone an AE model.

A dealership with factory trained service personnel, and with a commitment to good service would be best.

The dealership where you bought the bike would be a good starting point too.

I know there are guys who would disagree ... but when the bike is still on warranty, and there is a serious safety problem, the wisest course of action would be to make the problem Yamaha's. Hopefully it will go well.

 
I missed the part about it being under warrenty. Yes, definitely take it to a dealer, preferably the one you bought it from. I think there is also a "rating system" for Yamaha dealers, the highest of which is a five star or red star or something. Look it up and see if there's one near you. Even if the local tech doesn't have a clue about the AE, they have direct access to the factor reps who do

 
Google wasn't much help. anyone know where to find the rating system?

I bought it out of state but the one closest to me is called Coyote Motorsports. They have a pretty good rep and I think independly owned.

 
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OK, we'll get you thru this yet. Go to the Yamaha website and look at the very bottom under "Dealer Locator"

https://www.yamaha-motor.com/

Go to the link and put in your zip code. On the drop down pick "motorcycles", This will expand the choices, check the "Pro Yamaha Dealers" box and Go. Looks like Coyote is indeed a Pro dealer so they should be good to go to.

Try Googling "Pro yamaha dealers", you get pages of propaganda

 
I had the same problem when I first bought the the bike. The dealer said it was normal for the AE.

They had no clue. I found out later that if I adjusted the idle up to 1100 rpm it would solve that problem for me.

Never happened again after it warms up.

 
I may try that, I thought I remember someone on here saying that raising the idle is NOT the right solution but I could be wrong. Well, I was at 1000, maybe even a little less so that wasn't the right way to go. I'll try raising it.

I sure as hell don't want to take it to a dealer that doesn't have a clue and have some hack screwing things up.

BTW, this is what mine does:

 
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Hey Auron,

I just picked up a used AE with 24k miles. Still learning it but so far all seems good. Like others have said, let a dealer handle this. I mean no offense but you're being a little foolish here. Motorcycle safety is critical and you're ignoring it. Tough love, not bashing you!

As for the AE haters, lol just ignore them and their ignorance. I've been riding bikes for 20+ years and still have my sportbike. I don't owe anyone an explanation for my product choices. Makes no sense why they cry out about the AE like a nagging wife.

P.S. No offense to any nagging wives on this forum :D

 
...

BTW, this is what mine does:

...
Ouch.

That's nothing like the judder that I've experienced. That's not "bleeding" nor "soaking" territory, and it's going to do damage to other parts of your transmission.

Straight to a dealer, get it fixed under warranty.

 
I sure as hell don't want to take it to a dealer that doesn't have a clue and have some hack screwing things up.
Its already screwed up big time. You are literally wasting your time diddling around with advice from this board. Note that most FJR owners have never ridden an AE. There aren't that many of them out there.

The dealership that should have the greatest interest in helping you is the dealer who sold you the bike. If you know those people to be incompetent, or unhelpful, remember that the next time you're buying a bike on price. That's one thing about buying from D&H, i.e., Jerald does own an AE himself, and he can still interact with his service department, so he is familiar with AE's and can be helpful.

I bought mine from Action Powersports in Tulsa, but I only did this after talking with my usual dealer, Sloan's in Murfreesboro, TN, and also with Jerald at D&H in Cullman, AL. Both said that it was too late to order an AE from the warehouse and that they'd been cleared out just a few weeks earlier. I found the one in Tulsa, thought the price to be fair, bought it, and have full expectation from the Sloan's service manager that it will be very welcome there for whatever it needs. Sloan's is a serious dealer with professional service, a responsible owner, and an historically good reputation.

I suppose the additional technical complexity is a reasonable argument against the AE, i.e. there are more things that could go wrong and they may be beyond the skills of less competent shops.

If you bought the bike new from an authorized dealer, it undoubtedly has at least a mechanical warranty, and since it is clearly a safety problem that could get your sorry arse pulverized if it acted up at the wrong time, get off the computer and get the bike in to a competent dealer.

Some folks think that dealers are stealers .... there is certainly evidence of this. But buyers are also liars much of the time, so treat them honestly and fairly too, and you may receive like treatment in return.

 
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Watching your video, I have a thought about the problem. Obviously, in the video, you are holding the bike back with the brake, and the bucking is to some extent due to the computer program recognizing that the bike is not going anywhere and releasing the clutch after having engaged it.

I know that you do not ride this way so I am not going to suggest anything stupid, like "learn to ride." Instead, I wonder if your problem is a sticking brake pedal, or possibly a sticking caliper. Maybe the problem is not a computer controlled clutch problem at all, but a regular old problem with an unlubricated brake pedal pivot. Just a thought...

 
Watching your video, I have a thought about the problem. Obviously, in the video, you are holding the bike back with the brake, and the bucking is to some extent due to the computer program recognizing that the bike is not going anywhere and releasing the clutch after having engaged it.

I know that you do not ride this way so I am not going to suggest anything stupid, like "learn to ride." Instead, I wonder if your problem is a sticking brake pedal, or possibly a sticking caliper. Maybe the problem is not a computer controlled clutch problem at all, but a regular old problem with an unlubricated brake pedal pivot. Just a thought...
There should be no bad behaviour trying to move the bike against either brake.

The rear brake most of us use during slow manoeuvring, holding it hard on simply makes the engine work harder against the stationary rear wheel.

Against the front brake, a little storey. One rider I've toured with many times rides a conventional FJR, and has often bantered with me over my AS.

We were both ready to move off, waiting whilst others of the group got ready. He held his front brake on, and started to engage his clutch with a bit of throttle to make the bike ride against the front suspension. Said to me, "Bet you can't do that."

So I held my front brake on and wound on the throttle a bit so that the clutch started to engage, the bike pushing against the front suspension. "Bet you can't do this!", said I, giving him the bird with my left hand.

Engagement was as smooth as silk.

 
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I may try that, I thought I remember someone on here saying that raising the idle is NOT the right solution but I could be wrong. Well, I was at 1000, maybe even a little less so that wasn't the right way to go. I'll try raising it.

I sure as hell don't want to take it to a dealer that doesn't have a clue and have some hack screwing things up.

BTW, this is what mine does:


My bike have the same problem. Did you solved it? How?

 
Call Yamaha of Cucamonga email info at www.yocracing.com

Ask for Jay Conway, co-owner he is a five star yamaha mechanic also. He has maintained my many Yamaha bikes and also my 2006 AE. Tell him TurboDave suggested you call for assistance.

I live in southern CA and most of the time our weather is mild. I can not recll my AE ever having your problems. It has 65K on the clock. I gree with suggestion to start it and get a few temerature bars before starting to move, Good luck.

 
That's not my video but mine does the exact same thing. I'm sorry to say but that's without ANY resistence from the brakes...

OK, so off to the dealer it goes. I do remember somewhere on this site, someone with a bad solinoid had their bike doing this. HOw do you offer advice to a mechanic??? From my experience, dealers and mechanics have a pretty big head and think thier customers don't know ****.

 
That's not my video but mine does the exact same thing. I'm sorry to say but that's without ANY resistence from the brakes...

OK, so off to the dealer it goes. I do remember somewhere on this site, someone with a bad solinoid had their bike doing this. HOw do you offer advice to a mechanic??? From my experience, dealers and mechanics have a pretty big head and think thier customers don't know ****.
The first step is to NOT quote this or any other forum. The mechanics hate all the unfounded myths from the neener net and smarter than they are customers. Second is to not assume they are a bunch of morons, unless you know specifically otherwise (like my local Toyota dealer). For example, my local dealer is excellent, never have had a problem with them and the mechanic can work on AE's with no worries (not that he's had to work on mine)

Not trying to berate you here, you just asked.

I don't recall a post about a bad solenoid and I follow the AE posts pretty closely. Matrophy?

Where did you get the video if this isn't your's?

Keep us posted, real (unfortunately) interesting problem

 
I went looking for that thread and the bad solenoid was actually for a different problem so that possibility is out. That being the case, I'm dropping it off and asking politely that they watch the video before diagnosing it.

I came across that video researching potential problems with the YCCS before I bought the bike. Pretty ironic the only thing that was holding me back from buying an AE in the first place was that video. "Naw that'll never happen to me..." I thought.

 
I'm rather surprised to see, but nowhere in this topic the adjustment of clutch engagement point is mentioned: I looked at the video and the bike's behaviour is the same I experienced when, as I tried to fine-adjust it, the engagement point was set too low.

I do believe that this procedure (well explained in the service manual) would help a lot or even solve your problem.

 
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