Another PAIR removal approach, wadyathink?

[rfulcher]

I posted this at the end of another thread and didn't get any responses. So is this a good or bad idea?

I used the Dorman caps when I removed my PAIR system last summer, bummer . I am going to replace the caps this weekend. I am thinking about connecting outlets 1 and 2 with a short section/loop of hose and outlets 3 and 4 the same way. Instead of 4 pieces of hose and 4 plugs this would only use 2 short sections of hose. Any problems with this approach?

I got this idea when I noted that the stock PAIR system outlets are interconnected on the stock system.

Ross

 

[painman]

I posted this at the end of another thread and didn't get any responses. So is this a good or bad idea?
I used the Dorman caps when I removed my PAIR system last summer, bummer . I am going to replace the caps this weekend. I am thinking about connecting outlets 1 and 2 with a short section/loop of hose and outlets 3 and 4 the same way. Instead of 4 pieces of hose and 4 plugs this would only use 2 short sections of hose. Any problems with this approach?

I got this idea when I noted that the stock PAIR system outlets are interconnected on the stock system.

Ross

Maybe some pics would help and really I don't even know what the heck your talking about so I must be out of the loop. But I did respond. Curious though.....PM. <>< :blink:

 

[SkooterG]

Seems like a good idea to me.

 

[rfulcher]

I posted this at the end of another thread and didn't get any responses. So is this a good or bad idea?
I used the Dorman caps when I removed my PAIR system last summer, bummer . I am going to replace the caps this weekend. I am thinking about connecting outlets 1 and 2 with a short section/loop of hose and outlets 3 and 4 the same way. Instead of 4 pieces of hose and 4 plugs this would only use 2 short sections of hose. Any problems with this approach?

I got this idea when I noted that the stock PAIR system outlets are interconnected on the stock system.

Ross

Maybe some pics would help and really I don't even know what the heck your talking about so I must be out of the loop. But I did respond. Curious though.....PM. <>< :blink:

Haven't done it so can't do a pic. However I will try to make crude(well really lousy) picture. First the standard approach to blocking the PAIR

plug===PAIR-outlet1

plug===PAIR-outlet2

plug===PAIR-outlet3

plug===PAIR-outlet4

My suggestion for blocking off the PAIR

loop===PAIR-outlet1

o

f

hose===PAIR-outlet2

loop===PAIR-outlet3

o

f

hose===PAIR-outlet4

 

[user 17287]

Looks like it should work :huh: ...try it and then take pics!!

 

[RadioHowie]

No reason at all it wouldn't work, but the entire point of removing the PAIR system is to remove clutter. Caps over the inlet tubes is MUCH less clutter than interconnecting hoses.

It's really just a matter of choice.

If i understand you correctly, this is what you're thinking of doing?

Basically, interconnecting the input tubes with a hose "U".....gonna put a helluva kink in the hose to turn back on itself like that. Gonna be more like a "V".

I think it might be easier to connect PAIR #1 with #3 and #2 with #4. Much easier, but again, still cluttered.

Go with the caps, and check 'em at every other oil change. Two bolts out, hoist the tank....Okay?.....lower tank. Bad or split? Get 4 new ones. Dirt cheap and better looking.

 

[rfulcher]

Basically, interconnecting the input tubes with a hose "U".....gonna put a helluva kink in the hose to turn back on itself like that. Gonna be more like a "V".
I think it might be easier to connect PAIR #1 with #3 and #2 with #4. Much easier, but again, still cluttered.

Go with the caps, and check 'em at every other oil change. Two bolts out, hoist the tank....Okay?.....lower tank. Bad or split? Get 4 new ones. Dirt cheap and better looking.

If the inlet tube are numbered from the left to right 1, 2, 3, 4 then I would connect 1 to 2 and 3 to 4. Your picture is close to what I was thinking except it shows 2 and 3 connected.

On my bike to check the caps I have to undo 2 trim bolts, 2 push rivets, and two front bolts, then loosen the tank pivot., then raise the heat shield and maybe remove the T-bar.

I may still make caps with rubber plugs and short pieces of hose, whatever works best. Just want to do whatever is most reliable.

 

[v65]

If the dorman caps aren't working you could use the same plugs the factory uses. You will find one of the hoses in the pair system is already plugged, you can buy those plugs online for $6 a piece. $24 is cheap insurance

EDIT: Part # 5JW-14862-00-00 $5.74 each from extremepowersports, may be able to do better at forum preferred vendors.

 

[RadioHowie]

If the inlet tube are numbered from the left to right 1, 2, 3, 4 then I would connect 1 to 2 and 3 to 4. Your picture is close to what I was thinking except it shows 2 and 3 connected.

Yeah, you're right....I've connected #2 & #3. I did it in a hurry and thought what was #1 was #2 and didn't notice the "hidden" #4 at the top of the picture

On my bike to check the caps I have to undo 2 trim bolts, 2 push rivets, and two front bolts, then loosen the tank pivot., then raise the heat shield and maybe remove the T-bar.

LOL!!! My bike's been in the garage with the T-bar off for so long, I forgot it would be in the way! :rofl: Same with the trim pads!

When you've been staring at a "naked" Feej for 2 months, you forget about all the crap that hides all the crap.

And my Gen I ain't got no steenkin' heat shield. It would be a little more of a chore on a Gen II.

I may still make caps with rubber plugs and short pieces of hose, whatever works best. Just want to do whatever is most reliable.

Interestingly, I've only seen 1 post about split Dorman caps, so that's not necessarily a consensus that they aren't reliable.

Time will tell....YMMV....all the cliches.

 

[bikerskier]

Can someone explain to this now mechanically challenged old fuker, why the misc. tubing is even there in the first place, if it has no purpose?

Thanks!

(05 ABS) (damn, there is a lot of shit under the hood)

 

[ionbeam]

The nearly superfluous plumbing is partly for emissions and partly an assist for the cat/con. The Air Injection System is active during decel when the engine is cold and at idle when the engine is up to operating temperature. The system injects air into the exhaust stream behind one of the two exhaust valves at each cylinder. The extra air allows a second burn for any excess hydrocarbons that may be left over from combustion.

 

[RadioHowie]

Can someone explain to this now mechanically challenged old fuker, why the misc. tubing is even there in the first place, if it has no purpose?
Thanks!

(05 ABS) (damn, there is a lot of shit under the hood)

Oh, it DOES have a purpose....it allows the FJR to meet or exceed EPA requirements for hydrocarbon emissions for a 1300cc motorcycle.

It's essentially a "smog pump". Fresh, filtered air from the airbox is "injected" into the exhaust stream during certain driving conditions, such as closed throttle during decel. This allows the fresh air to ignite any unburned fuel-air charge being dumped into the exhaust system. (actually, it's not really "injected"...vacuum caused by the outrush of exhaust gases draws fresh air through the PAIR inlets on top of the valve cover. There are "reed" valves underneath those covers prevent exhaust from coming OUT of the PAIR nozzles)

Without it, the FJR would not pass an unburned hydrocarbon test for manufacture certification.

So basically, us assholes who have removed the PAIR system are killing polar bear cubs. Ummmmmmmm......polar bear cubs!

edit: Dammit, Alan types too fast...or I too slow...and beat me to it. But I like my style of prose much better. Ionbeam is as smart as they come, but his writing style is dry as a popcorn fart.

 

[bikerskier]

Thanks to both of you for the illumination of the purpose of the tubing. I guess since it is unlikley I will need to have emission testing done on my Oregon scooter, I will also kill a couple of very small creatures somewhere on the planet with slightly higher toxic emissions.

 

[jstewart]

I plugged mine last year the same way I have plugged every bike I have owned since these systems were first used on motorcycles. High temp GE silicone. Just enough to block the fittings and form a plug. It is permanent and cheap. The only downside is you need to let it setup and cure for 24 hours. I have done at least 6 of my own bikes this way and I can't count the number I have done for other guys in the shop. I don't like rubber plugs or hose unless it comes from the motorcycle manufacturer because most plugs and hose found in hardware stores are not rated for the temperature or chemically stable enough to last. The high temp GE silicone will survive this enviorment and is easily removable if you use just enough to get the plugs blocked not to mention it is cheap and available nearly everywhere.

 

[rfulcher]

I replaced the Dorman plugs with two 8 inch loops of hose. It looks like a "U" connecting fitting 1 and 2 and another "U" connecting fitting 3 and 4. The 2 loops of hose take up little space. Very simple, just 2 pieces of hose approximately 8 inches long and 4 small hose clamps. I used automotive heater hose so it should hold up well. The Dorman block off caps were showing signs of breakdown with multiple cracks so they probably would have failed over the next few months. Even the cap blocking off the airbox showed signs of cracking so I guess they are just cheap sh*t.

 

[Wicked Webby]

I replaced the Dorman plugs with two 8 inch loops of hose. It looks like a "U" connecting fitting 1 and 2 and another "U" connecting fitting 3 and 4. The 2 loops of hose take up little space. Very simple, just 2 pieces of hose approximately 8 inches long and 4 small hose clamps. I used automotive heater hose so it should hold up well. The Dorman block off caps were showing signs of breakdown with multiple cracks so they probably would have failed over the next few months. Even the cap blocking off the airbox showed signs of cracking so I guess they are just cheap sh*t.

rfulcher,

Nice and simple,

Should work great....

Though, for those who do regular throttle body syncs...

My only criticism is that it doesn't clean up the top of the valve cover area as well..

WW

 

[rfulcher]

I replaced the Dorman plugs with two 8 inch loops of hose. It looks like a "U" connecting fitting 1 and 2 and another "U" connecting fitting 3 and 4. The 2 loops of hose take up little space. Very simple, just 2 pieces of hose approximately 8 inches long and 4 small hose clamps. I used automotive heater hose so it should hold up well. The Dorman block off caps were showing signs of breakdown with multiple cracks so they probably would have failed over the next few months. Even the cap blocking off the airbox showed signs of cracking so I guess they are just cheap sh*t.

rfulcher,

Nice and simple,

Should work great....

Though, for those who do regular throttle body syncs...

My only criticism is that it doesn't clean up the top of the valve cover area as well..

WW

I am satisfied. It takes up about he same amount of space as the long irrigation plugs. Sometime in the future I may actually order Yamaha plugs like the OEM plug used with the pair system. They are like 6 bucks each but are probably the cleanest way to do it.

I did a TBS after the PAIR system. It took longer to warm up the bike than to do the TBS.

 

[v65]

If you are the sort that just can't leave things alone, there is always block off plates. ELP_JC made a few sets a while back, I love mine.

 

[NSrider]

I just took some 1/2" hose cut off four short lengths and filled one end with permetex high temp sealant and when it is dry I will install them with the four clamps that are on the stock plumbing.