Another PAIR removal approach, wadyathink?

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Well i got back from silver lake in NH today. The SO and i spent some time with friends. Just wanted to let everyone know i will be posting information tomorrow on the block off plates. Wish i could have drove the FJR up there, we had to take the cage though.

Good night all.

 
Hello All,

I am now taking orders for the Pair Covers.

They are pictured here: https://rides.webshots.com/album/571236359enzipk

PAIR COVER SETS 04/20/09

I am going to be making 10 sets of covers to start off regardless of the need. The price for the 10 sets at this time will be $44.00 a set plus S+H in the lower 48 states. I will also take orders up until the 27’th of April one week from today. If it happens that we can reach an order amount of 20 sets or more I will lower the price to $39.00 a set plus S+H to the lower 48 states. Once we reach the 27’th of April I will start fabricating whatever sets are needed to be built. I have already invested a lot of hrs. and have built the necessary fixtures in order to expedite these as quick as possible. The orders will be shipped in the order of payment received. I will post a list of buyers if the orders start to

exceed the original 10 sets. I don’t know how much interest there is in these but for those people who turn their own wrenches I am told it is nice to have all these hoses out of the way. As far as putting these on and removing the emissions it will be your own responsibility at that point. Some states may require that it’s left on the bike. Use at your own risk. I recommend you keep everything you take of if needed later. JMO

If you are interested in having a set of these please be aware that on the GenI’s there is much more work to installing them. In the meantime I have made a set for myself thanks to Joe2lmaker for sending me the iges files. I have been talking with Joe and he has given

me the O.K. to use his files and let me go ahead and make these for the forum folk. I will start tomorrow night to get them installed on my 2008 FJR and will follow the progress with pictures as I go.

The covers will be made from 6061-T6 aluminum plate stock. I don’t plan on anodizing them at this time. I do have a plating source if there is enough interested parties wanting to have it done. Pricing for anodizing the parts will be determined if the need arises. If you don’t want my logo on the covers please state that at the time of order otherwise it will be there.

If you wish to purchase a set, please send me an e-mail that includes your shipping address. Put “FJR PAIR TEST COVERS” in the subject line. No order is valid unless I receive your address. I will then send you a reply telling you where to mail the payment.

Email to: [email protected]

All orders must be in by April 27‘th. and all payments received by May 1’st.

If you have any other questions , feel free to contact me.

Thanks,

08FJR4ME, (AKA Dave)

 
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Good on ya for making these available. Might I suggest starting a new thread tho so people can find it?

 
So, in photo:

https://rides.webshots.com/photo/2608418960105030702cGPGSw

there's a black item with a lever on it. is that underneath the intake nipples? is it telling us to remove it before installing the covers? i saw your grouping of photos, but no captions. i have everything but the intake nipples remove and need to do a tool run for a longer, 2.5mm allen wrench.

(03, Gen 1, FJR)

 
[SIZE=18pt]Cover Install notes[/SIZE]
[SIZE=18pt]1) If the covers are being installed on a GenI the water tubes will have to be removed for installation. Make sure to drain ½ of the coolant before removing tubes.

2) If the covers are being installed on a GenII you will need a stub allen wrench to remove one of the screws on cover plate #1. You can either grind your allen wrench shorter or use a cutoff wheel with a dremel tool.

3) Do not remove the reed valves when installing the covers. They are made of rubber and create the seal for the plates.

4) You will also have to plug the hole in the air box that is left when you remove all the hoses and valve. Some have used the existing hose with the aluminum plug in it.

AutoZone also sells a plastic cap to fit over the opening.

5) Make sure to use electrical tape to cover the connector That is no longer being used so debris does not get in.

6) Bag everything you took off in a large Ziplock bag and save it in case you ever need to reinstall the Air induction system again.

[/SIZE]
 
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Excellent. Thanks for the clarification. I got cover 1 off using an allen socket and a swivel adapter. I then got it off a second time to put the reed valve assembly back in after leaving it out. It lifted out with the OEM cover/intake tube. Cleaning them up with a soft toothbrush might be worthwhile too as that one was covered in pebbles of grit.

I have a Gen 1 and was hoping to find a way to work around the cooland pipe but suspect that the risk of damage is pretty high vs the ease of draining a little fluid.

The service manual calls for thread locker and 10 ft/lb of torque. That's light enough that I just put some blue locktite on it and hand tightened it. The originals were locked in pretty solid from the original thread locker and the heat/cool cycles over the years.

 
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