Audiovox Cruise Control Install Help

[Stu64]

Ionbeam, Where do you have your orange/red wire for +12 volts hooked up too?

Also is it possible that it is seeing some voltage coming from my brake system?

I have a back-off brake light flasher installed too.

 

[FJRocket]

I run a check valve, one port, no aux can. Works fine. Get the check valve. Might want to get the one in, two out check valve just in case you want to add the aux can later on.

 

[ionbeam]

Orange wire connects to any key switched +12VDC source.

Red wire to Battery, not switched, always hot.

Purple +12VDC only when brake is engaged.

I have a back-off brake light flasher installed too

Dunno about that. The Purple wire should be very nearly 0VDC until the brake is engaged. Any voltage over 0VDC may be interpreted by the CC as 'brake engaged' even if the brake isn't pressed. I don't know how the back-off flasher is wired into Feejers electrical system. If you can supply info on flasher brand LMK and I will see what I can find out.

Alan --> Happy Fourth!!!

 

[dusty1300]

Don't know if this will help or not. I just put the Audiovox on my ST1300. I got a check valve from Napa. I heard that there are types of check valves that are called bleeder valves. I got the Napa part number 2-1015. I heard it is good to put it as close to the engine as possible. I also didn't use a vacuum canister and it works great. It worked at 40mph, and at 70mph and going up pretty good sized hills. I haven't tried it slower or faster than that.

Tom

 

[Stu64]

Tonight i almost gave up and took it off. Then i decided to remove the back-off modulator and try it.

Well i took off up the street to about 40mph and hit the set button whoa' it works and smoothly even down to 25 mph. All this time and testing and it was that damn brake light modulater.

I think i can still use it for my top box lights. Now on to installing the next farkle.

 

[dusty1300]

Oh, yeh, I had heard this before. There was a similiar problem on the ST forum. The guy with a modulator had the same problem. Here is what fixed it for him:

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Ok, it's done. Got the cruise working like a top. Tried all sorts of resistors and diodes in the circuit and couldn't get it to work right. Finally used a relay to isolate the brake circuit from the cruise. Used the brake circuit to pull in the relay and send 12 volts to the cruise. Without the modulator I wouldn't have had to do this.

I can set it anywhere from 25 to about 75 (didn't have room to try any faster) and it holds to within about 1-2 mph even on some fairly steep hills. Front and rear brakes and pulling in the clutch all kill the cruise. Only rode it about 10 miles and I can't wait to take it on a longer ride.

Also got the brake light modulator and the headlight modulator working and installed some new Osram Silverstars. Got most of the bike back together and will finish it in the morning and take a little (I'm off all day) ride.

=================================================

Hope this helps.

Tom

 

[BrunDog]

ionbeam: I totally agree on the check valves for each TB. Each TB should be as isolated as possible, and each upstream configuration should be as invisible to the TB as possible.

My setup (not yet fully installed) will have a positive-seat check valve at each of four TB's (the closer the better), then tee'd and connected to reservoir/servo.

-BD

 

[ionbeam]

Congratulations Stu64! You have now joined the elite group that can wave with their RIGHT hand B)

If you gotta drone on a super slab the CC is a real blessing. I've also found that it is darn convenient to have use of your right hand on occasion.

Alan

 

[SickDog]

CC is now on my short list of farkles. I've read the forums and the tech write-up on Hmarc's site.

Question re check valve: Can someone describe the direction for installation of the check valve? I presume there is an inlet and an outlet on the valve. Maybe even an arrow? How does one insure that the valve is correctly positioned?

Also: I recall reading a set-up where the installer used a 3-port check valve. One line from the valve went to the servo; another to the TB; another to the vacuum canister. Again, how does one know which port or stem to connect to which component?

...I guess I should go buy a check valve and inspect it but for now I'll rely on your collective wisdom...

 

[dusty1300]

I'm not sure if it was mentioned in the FJR instructions, but the air flows to the engine. You can blow on the check valve and see which way it goes. In other words, the engine creates the vacuum in the CC by pulling air through the check valve.

This is one of the best things if not the best thing I have done to my bike so far.

Tom

 

[Stu64]

The vacuum valves i bought at Autozone are black& white and say VAC on the black side which goes toward the engine(vacuum port).

 

[SickDog]

Thanks all on the check valve info...

 

[gryphon68]

Planning on adding CC to my ABS '05, what are some of the successful locations for the module that people have used? The common HOWTO on fjr1300.info shows the module installed behind the right hand side cover where the ABS is located.

I would rather have the module hidden, so while I appreciate IONBEAM's pictures, that's not for me.

MOTORGOD, is your bike ABS? If not, does anyone no if that area under the seat is the same depth on ABS and non-ABS units?

Any other ideas for for hidden install on ABS models?

Thanks,

 

[ionbeam]

The servo unit will just fit under the seat of an ABS if you take out the tool tray. Some very minor plastic trimming may be necessary. I have electronics in the tool tray that I didn't want to move. I ride with the bags on almost all the time so the location I chose was no big deal for me.

Alan

 

[Bounce]

After I installed mine I tried it on the center stand. Wouldn't work well at all. Put it on the ground and went for a cruise. Works great. Best farkle yet!

what are people using for the flexible link? iirc there was a photo of some chain like used with dog tags and a make-it-yourself connector to the throttle cable.

Did people fab up everything like like at FJRInfo?

 

[Bounce]

I did not install a canister. Mine's a little jerky at speeds below 45, which may or may not be an issue of the non-canister install. at 55-65 in mountains it's got not problems.
I think the cotterpin mounting on the throttle tang rocks. Definatly relieves some of the screw clearing stock linkage issues...

Cotter pin?

Someone else mentioned that there's another site besides FJR Info that also details the installation?

 

[ionbeam]

The chain is part of the kit as well at the tab that the chain connects to. All you supply is the hole in the tab.

The kit is just loaded with bits and pieces to accommodate almost any kind of install. When done there will be lots and lots of unused bits and pieces, both electrical and mechanical. You are limited only by your imagination :dribble:

I reworked the bracket for the servo mechanism and made a mount for the control pad. I used a fuel filter as a vacuum reservoir so I had limited fab work.

Alan

 

[ionbeam]

Try https://fjrowners.ws/ and search for Audiovox. There are pages and pages of stuff on the CC install.

While at fjrowners site do a search on cotter and you will quickly get pixs for using a cotter pin to attach the chain to the throttle stop tab. That is how I attached my chain, works for me (16k miles and counting).

Alan

 

[Craig in Denver]

Here's one attachment method:

Here's the 'cotter pin' option:

 

[FJRocket]

I used whatever came with the kit. Mine uses the dog tag type ball chain to hook to the throttle. I used a 12 inch drill bit to put a hole in the tang, then screwed the chain on using audiovox parts.

I have now tested my audiovox in the mountains at 85+ mph. It works fine on one port, check valve and no aux can. Ain't perfect, but works great with very little lag.