I tried that and got this back from the search.
(btw: thanks for the tip. i found the thread on the cotter pin install)
Audiovox Cruise Control Install Help
- Thread starter tsitalon1
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Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
(btw: thanks for the tip. i found the thread on the cotter pin install)
Freesundae
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Anyone thought about using those boat rocker switches vs. the control pad? Am I correct in thinking that those swicthes on the control pad are just, mom. on/off/mom. on, DPDT switches that are just closing a 12v circuit? They would be water and corrosion proof as well as IMHO a whole lot better looking then that control pad...
Tim
:assasin: <-- I just really like that guy....
Tim
:assasin: <-- I just really like that guy....
ionbeam
2 FUN
Man, that would make sense, simple etc., etc. Unfortunately, it's not the way they work. Here is how it works . The buttons on the control pad do a great job of looking like a regular switch but they are not. The 'buttons' are molded into a sheet of rubber. On the back side of the membrane they have applied little dots of a carbon material. These dots sit just over a circuit board that has ~12 interlaces conductors that are close together but not touching (picture interlaced fingers). When the 'button' is pressed the carbon material contacts and shorts the interlaced fingers. Now here is the gotcha, the interlaced fingers go to an IC that converts the not quite 12 volts/not quite ground signal into a true on/off state that is buffered for the servo unit. Perhaps you could hack into the wires and add a switch. Perhaps the servo will go POOFFFFffff, perhaps while you are in a hot corner the servo will suddenly turn on.
The carbon dots are not truly conductive so the IC takes the interlaced conductor voltage and runs it through a level comparitor and then drives an isolated output voltage to the servo. Fresh water isn't truly conductive either and water in the control pad causes the IC to set false outputs. Remember that this is a CAR cruise control and Audiovox expects the control pad to be mounted on a dash board. Pop open the unit and sparingly apply something like RTV around the switch openings, snap it back together then seal the edges followed by the wire exit hole.
Bounce, let me know how you make out installing one of YOUR cotters... :lol:
Alan
Yes, a standard momentary on/off switch works fine for the two inputs.
The electronics in the Audiovox control station make up a power-on latching scheme for the On/Off switch. Since all four PB's on the control station are momentary push-to-close switches some scheme has to be used to keep the power on when you release the On PB. This is accomplished with a latching circuit. The power is latched-on when you press the On PB. The power stays on until you unlatch the circuit by pressing the Off PB. Of course the circuit also unlatches when you turn off the ignition switch.
Using relays I use the windshield up/down switch to control the Audiovox. A relay contact closure sends a 12 volt pulse into each of the two inputs.
If I had it to do over again I'm not sure I'd install the relays. Too much work. A fairly complicated circuit. The windshield switches are normally closed switches which complicates the addition of relays. But, the relays do work well and I don't have the unsightly Audiovox control panel on the handlebars.
I also added a Cancel feature to the Audiovox similar to that found on most cars. While holding the throttle grip with my right hand I tap a PB with my left hand to cancel the Audiovox. The brakes & brake light are not actuated with this scheme. A seamless no-power-interruption transition off the Audiovox. I use this feature when entering towns, reduced speed limit areas, etc.
My only gripe with the Audiovox is the tap up/down feature. I get less than a 1/2 MPH change in set speed when I use the up/down feature. I'd like to see the set speed change in 1 MPH increments.
The electronics in the Audiovox control station make up a power-on latching scheme for the On/Off switch. Since all four PB's on the control station are momentary push-to-close switches some scheme has to be used to keep the power on when you release the On PB. This is accomplished with a latching circuit. The power is latched-on when you press the On PB. The power stays on until you unlatch the circuit by pressing the Off PB. Of course the circuit also unlatches when you turn off the ignition switch.
Using relays I use the windshield up/down switch to control the Audiovox. A relay contact closure sends a 12 volt pulse into each of the two inputs.
If I had it to do over again I'm not sure I'd install the relays. Too much work. A fairly complicated circuit. The windshield switches are normally closed switches which complicates the addition of relays. But, the relays do work well and I don't have the unsightly Audiovox control panel on the handlebars.
I also added a Cancel feature to the Audiovox similar to that found on most cars. While holding the throttle grip with my right hand I tap a PB with my left hand to cancel the Audiovox. The brakes & brake light are not actuated with this scheme. A seamless no-power-interruption transition off the Audiovox. I use this feature when entering towns, reduced speed limit areas, etc.
My only gripe with the Audiovox is the tap up/down feature. I get less than a 1/2 MPH change in set speed when I use the up/down feature. I'd like to see the set speed change in 1 MPH increments.
Last edited by a moderator:
BrunDog
Well-known member
The switches on the stock contol panel are not just momentary on/off switches like ionbeam said in an over-analyzed scientific dissertation (ironic, no?), but there is nothing preventing you from using these. Using waterproof (called splashproof) switches you can ensure that you never have a mis-activation due to water penetration. People have had very good success sealing the stock pad, though, so if you like you can use it with your own custom mount or use your own switches.
-BD
Thug
A shy retiring flower in a Thug's exterior
I still recon the Mc Cruise is a far superior product i.e "plug and play" not plug- make up some items- and install- cross fingers- and then go and play. Agree disagree? 
FJRocket
Doctor Throckenstein !!!
Agree. Now if we could just get the Mc CC here for the price of the Audiovox, there would be no question which way to go. But $700 vs $100? No decision there for me. And my Audiovox is still kickin after over a year of service.
BrunDog
Well-known member
Jestal: I think you hit the nail dead on on the very head. I couldn't agree more. On my install I used individual positive-seat check valves as close to the nipple as possible, then reduced down to individual 1/8" ID / 1/6" OD tubes, each run back to a reservoir manifold. I used small tubes for ease of run and for the restriction they create, imparting minimal impact to each throttle. I wanted there to be no crosstalk but gain the advantage of all four cylinders' vacuum. Each of these do pulsate, as you said, BTW. Here is my install: Here, not too far away.
Thug: I know you don't want to hear it, but I would bet my left stone that the servo inside the "McCruise" is in fact the Audiovox. Based on the pictures I have seen, it looks like there is just a new cover over it.
Thug: I know you don't want to hear it, but I would bet my left stone that the servo inside the "McCruise" is in fact the Audiovox. Based on the pictures I have seen, it looks like there is just a new cover over it.
FJRocket
Doctor Throckenstein !!!
I can see that I obviously under engineered my Audiovox CC. My eyes were glazing over reading your explainations. :bigeyes: Huh? :sleepy: :sleepy: Wha? Unh? Zzzzz.... . . :lazy:
Glad mine works OK. Bike seems to run fine too. Any you guys going to EOM? Trade rides. See if there's any difference on how the bikes run?
Glad mine works OK. Bike seems to run fine too. Any you guys going to EOM? Trade rides. See if there's any difference on how the bikes run?
Question - there is a black and gray wire coming from my control pad. They seem to be completely ignored in the manual. The HOWTO at frj1300.info mentions the black wire being terminated under a bolt ( so this is to be grounded? ) and the grey being hooked into the blue wire on the LH turn signal harness ( is this +12 switched power? )
These are not the black and grey wires on the 10 wire harness, those are tied back.
Thanks,
These are not the black and grey wires on the 10 wire harness, those are tied back.
Thanks,
BrunDog
Well-known member
They are mentioned in the manual. IIRC (and I did not use the pad, so please double check) the black is ground and the grey is to be grounded, too, if you want the pad to be backlit (why wouldn't anyone?).
-BD
-BD
I found the online manual and its has a section that is definetely not in the manual that came in my box.
Anyway, Black to Ground, Grey to Parking Lights in a car, in our case switched +12V will give key-on backlighting.
Hopefully I can get that fixed tonight and give it a test spin.
Anyway, Black to Ground, Grey to Parking Lights in a car, in our case switched +12V will give key-on backlighting.
Hopefully I can get that fixed tonight and give it a test spin.
slapnpop
Rest in Peace our Forum Founder
adding my $0.02
When I upgraded the system to be running all 4 ports with individual check valves, and canister, i took out my trusted mityvac.
Took the hose off the servo, attached to mityvac, and sucked away. The system took many many pumps to pull a vaccum, but once there held for over 5 minutes with no leaks. Check valves rock! Canister rock! The cruise was weak and mediocre without, it's a whole new ballgame with.
When I upgraded the system to be running all 4 ports with individual check valves, and canister, i took out my trusted mityvac.
Took the hose off the servo, attached to mityvac, and sucked away. The system took many many pumps to pull a vaccum, but once there held for over 5 minutes with no leaks. Check valves rock! Canister rock! The cruise was weak and mediocre without, it's a whole new ballgame with.
Question: Where would someone find the MCcruise? I don't care if it's $700.00 as long as I dont have to take up all the space under my seat with canisters and servo. Maybe there is a site that's less than $700 bones.I still recon the Mc Cruise is a far superior product i.e "plug and play" not plug- make up some items- and install- cross fingers- and then go and play. Agree disagree?
Thanks,
mo
BrunDog
Well-known member
You don't HAVE to put it under your seat - look at ionbeam's install. It is along the side kind of like the MCCruise.
-BD
-BD
Slardy
Well-known member
motorgod,
I have an 04 and there is NO space under the seat to mount a canister as shown in your photo. My battery will hardly fit into that space. What's goin on? :dribble:
I have an 04 and there is NO space under the seat to mount a canister as shown in your photo. My battery will hardly fit into that space. What's goin on? :dribble:
