Barbarian Jumper Mod on 06

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
That has to be one of the easiest mods I have ever done to a bike. Thanks all! Less than 15 min on an '06

Mine was a 5, 18, 18, 21. 3/06 build date.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
That has to be one of the easiest mods I have ever done to a bike. Thanks all! Less than 15 min on an '06
Mine was a 5, 18, 18, 21. 3/06 build date.
Mine was -10, 15, 8, 11. Increased each value by 5. Early build date. Makes a ton of difference, along with adjusting the throttle free play. Starts out like a Goldwing.

 
2006 FJR 1300a #212 build 3/06 Cally edition.

5,18,18,21.

Took me longer and have'nt riden it yet. Stay tuned (HaHa) for my ride report.

 
So why the farck don't the dealers know about it? For all the bitching and moaning that the dealers must have to listen to, you would think that they would invest the 15 farcking minutes it actually took a lame *** mechanic like myself to do it.
It is a violation of federal law to modify any part of the emmissions control system so dealers may be reluctant to do it. If they got caught in some kind of sting, it would be trouble. Not likely but that's the difference between being in the business of working on motors and working on your own motor.

I live in GA so I'm not subject to any emissions testing at all on motorcycles. They no longer use sniffers to test new cars here - they just plug into the engine's brain and check for codes that tell them if any emissions stuff is out of spec.

I'm really interested in doing this mod as my '04 has a bad stumble off idle that TBS did not really eliminate. But I'm curious about the long term effect on the cat. I don't really care if the converter is actually converting anything, but could this mod cause any kind of particulate buildup or something that might have bad side effects - really high cat temps or restricted exhaust flow maybe? I have no idea if this is a valid concern or not.

 
I did the jumper mod on my 06 yesterday. My values were -10, 8,8,11 I added 7 to each value and went for a ride. Bike did not feel as good as normal and engine had more vibration and felt held back. I switched back to orig values and immediately felt an improvement on power and smoothness..........what the *&^% ?

I agree with a post I read on here ...forgot who wrote it......that this mod is guesswork and not the best way to be going about this. I'm definitely open to hear about the 2006 PC and what it will do to the 2006. From what I understand, it's not out yet with a downloadable map.

 
Did the mod Saturday...

Original Values:

5,18,18,21.

Have not ridden it yet.

Tomorrow we find out.

-MD

 
The BJM worked great on my 06A CA. As noted previously, it just takes the edge off at lower rpm (<3500 approx.) I did notice that avg mpg went from 36 to 35. Some marginal improvement in lowering the engine temp. I am happy. Riding two up will be better for my wife. :D

 
Maywanna,

I did mine last week and added 5 to 5,18,18 and 21. That worked out pretty good. I went to 7 and it got worse again. I went back 3 to a total of 4 added and that is better than the 5 was. You may want to try experimenting a bit.

Roy

 
I did the jumper mod on my 06 yesterday. My values were -10, 8,8,11 I added 7 to each value and went for a ride. Bike did not feel as good as normal and engine had more vibration and felt held back. I switched back to orig values and immediately felt an improvement on power and smoothness..........what the *&^% ?I agree with a post I read on here ...forgot who wrote it......that this mod is guesswork and not the best way to be going about this. I'm definitely open to hear about the 2006 PC and what it will do to the 2006. From what I understand, it's not out yet with a downloadable map.

Your settings should have been -3, 15, 15, 18 - I dont get it mine runs great. ?? All you are doing is richening ( is that a word ) the idle and just above idle mixture, there really isn't any guess work, your changing a number instead of turning a screw. :huh:

 
Another '06 with factory -10, 8, 8, 11 settings. Set all +7, very smooth during low speed maneuvers now, no detectable surging, where before it was quite noticeable, to the point where I had to feather the clutch during low speed U-turns, and can now just leave it in gear clutch out. I haven't had the chance to see how much difference this might make with on-off throttle transitions in the twisties.

The only wierdness I had was my tach stopped working immediately after the mod, then started working again after ~ 5 miles of riding with nothing else done on my part. I assume this is because one of the other connections in the harness just didn't quite seat correctly, but eventually reseated from normal riding.

There's no risk of screwing up the #23 wire if you just remember to push the wire out from the open side, and not pull it out from the wire side.

I wish I'd done this the day I picked up the bike...

 
I just finished the mod myself. I increased the settings on all four cylinders by 7 increments and then went for a ride.
Nice!!! Now I like the bike even more. I get less mirror vibration, engine is smoother overall and throttle is not as jerky at low RPMs and the engine feels like it has just a tad more low end torque. Any vibration I used to feel at 75-80mph is now totally gone, and the temp indicator dropped by one bar. This looks to me like a great modification. :yahoo:

For the record, my initial settings on my four cylinders were:

1. -10

2. 8

3. 8

4. 11

I would be curious to know how this compares to what others have measured. No 1 cylinder sure looks to be set a lot leaner than the rest.
These were my initial numbers as well. I went +7 across the board and it does improve performance very obviously.

cr

 
I'm gonna need all of your name, address, and vin#'s as you all have now voided your factory warranty. :|




:D

How do you figure that - careful how you answer, I went to law school ;-) I'm not sure that moving a wire would qualify as modifying a part (the only point you might think this would fall under), especially when the Euro version is set up to do this. NOw, the EPA might not be too thrilled.

 
First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:
I did the mod but in the process lost the little white plastic pin that came out of 25. As I was trying to put it in 23, it flew out of the end of the needle nose. Zing....and it was gone. Can I plug pin 23 with a tiny dab of silicone seal instead of the elusive {lost} plastic plug? Does pin 23 really need to be plugged at all? Shucky Darn!!!
The same thing happend to me last night. I was trying to insert the little white plastic plug with a hemostat because I couldn't seem to do it with my big fingers and zing, off it went to who knows where. I looked around inside the bike and on the floor but it was too dark to see well.

Getting the wire out of 23 was not happening. I was trying to push it out rather than pull from the top but couldn't find anything thin enough to work until I thought of using sewing needle with the eye end pushed up into the connector. Then the wire came out easily.

T120TT, did you use the dielectric silicone paste that's used for electronic connections? That's what I'm thinking of using if I can't find the little white plastic bit.

 
Hi folks

FWIW my origininal values were: -5, 8, 8 & 11. Canadian 2006 FJR, if that's of interest.

I took a short ride after the fix (in the rain) so I'm still looking forward to a run in dry conditions to get a better idea of the difference - but I must report that the bike did run much more smoothly than before. It now seems to run more freely (if that makes any sense). It's as though the engine can supply the same power with less 'effort'.

... this machine just keeps getting better and better! :D

Many thanks to everyone for supplying the info and encouragement.

PS - Kind of Blue - After having played around with the ecu - I'm not sure if the little white plug performs any useful function. I would imagine that everything would be perfect without it. If I'm wrong, I'm sure we'll soon find out.

 
First, thanks to M.B.D. at FJRowners.com. He figured this out. The procedure is close to the same as the 03. (https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/jumper.html). You only change pins 23 and 25. Take the white plug out of 25. Then take the wire from 23 and place in 25. Put the plug in 23. Follow the instructions for the other parts. I went plus 7 on all 4 CO settings and it definitely helped. The off idle response is a lot smoother and the slight lean surge at 35MPH in 4th is gone. I don't know the effect yet on MPG. :yahoo:
I did the mod but in the process lost the little white plastic pin that came out of 25. As I was trying to put it in 23, it flew out of the end of the needle nose. Zing....and it was gone. Can I plug pin 23 with a tiny dab of silicone seal instead of the elusive {lost} plastic plug? Does pin 23 really need to be plugged at all? Shucky Darn!!!
The same thing happend to me last night. I was trying to insert the little white plastic plug with a hemostat because I couldn't seem to do it with my big fingers and zing, off it went to who knows where. I looked around inside the bike and on the floor but it was too dark to see well.

Getting the wire out of 23 was not happening. I was trying to push it out rather than pull from the top but couldn't find anything thin enough to work until I thought of using sewing needle with the eye end pushed up into the connector. Then the wire came out easily.

T120TT, did you use the dielectric silicone paste that's used for electronic connections? That's what I'm thinking of using if I can't find the little white plastic bit.
Just curious, why didn't you use the paperclip that came with the kit?

 
PS - Kind of Blue - After having played around with the ecu - I'm not sure if the little white plug performs any useful function. I would imagine that everything would be perfect without it. If I'm wrong, I'm sure we'll soon find out.
Bull, It's a moot point. I did find the little white plastic pin and got it into hole 23. It fell out of the bike when I took it off the centerstand. I suspected it was in there somewhere and was right that a little movement of the bike might make it drop to the floor.

 
PS - Kind of Blue - After having played around with the ecu - I'm not sure if the little white plug performs any useful function. I would imagine that everything would be perfect without it. If I'm wrong, I'm sure we'll soon find out.
Bull, It's a moot point. I did find the little white plastic pin and got it into hole 23. It fell out of the bike when I took it off the centerstand. I suspected it was in there somewhere and was right that a little movement of the bike might make it drop to the floor.
That little white plug, is the Oh, So Important moisture barrier and electrical short protector. It keep you (or someone else) from sticking something else in there that doesn't belong.

Losing that would not be the end of the world, but if you do, I would wad up a little electrical tape or something and put it in there. ;)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
just to put a note on this thread...

I did the barb mod and had some improvement on my 6A.

Then put the numbers back to stock, plugged in a PCIII, un-hooked the o2 sensor and was absolutely amazed at the difference. If you can afford the $300 for the PCIII, honestly I wouldn't go to the trouble of doing this. The PCIII is incredible.

 
Very interesting topic. My 04 w/ABS just came back from the shop for the tick repair and I noticed a very distinct difference in torque (much less) in taking off from stops. I have to give it much more throttle and feather the clutch much more to take off now. I've put 1,000 miles + on it since the repair and it's still the same.

I bought the bike used and am wondering if the previous owner had done this mod before I bought it, and then when in the shop for the "tick", perhaps the "system" (whatever that is!) could've been reset as part of the teardown and now I'm feeling what you are talking about.

To be honest, I thought the bike always had gobs of torques at low rpm and was as smooth as silk from idle before the repair.

Possible? Likely? any other ideas?

Thanks

Clay

 
Has anybody with an '07 done this? Seems to me the answer is 'no', after reading the tons of surging/stumbling posts from those owners. Just curious.

I'm also curious if the surging and other anomalies are because Yamaha slapped those generic numbers that don't seem to make sense. How can you go from -8, xx, xx, +20? Just doesn't add up. Maybe it was a batch of injectors, but how in the world did they assume all other injectors were going to have the same identical differences?

Inquiring minds want to know. Hopefully somebody with a full exhaust with ports can play leveling all numbers, and such. Later gang.

JC

 

Latest posts

Top